Hatsan Hercules .45 upgrades and mods

I’m working on my Bully with the same goal. I’m using the 196gr NSA HP slugs. I ported a lot of metal out of the unpressurized side of my valve but that’s it, when charging the gun it was leaking slowly and I ran out of time to investigate. I know believe the hammer was slightly pressing the valve open because of how terrible a design that massive spring is, need to confirm but I think if I keep filling the higher pressure would keep the valve closed and I could take some shots to see what the porting did. So inefficient of a design and terrible cocking from the factory but huge potential I think for these guns.


I ordered the extension for the V3 emperor because this thing is very loud. Can’t believe I have $400 into the suppressor but it dumps so much air it’s pretty necessary.


definitely could use a longer barrel but with my 17” LDC I’m losing the battle here...

As far as the Bully goes, have any of you Bully pioneers figured a way to get rid of the ping?

Got the Bully version in .45. 

Have only tried non-Hatsan slugs (Nielsen, Venturi, Cowboy Bullets) and they don't stay seated in the magazine during recoil. They walk out and block indexing. I've got a fix in the works. Going to design and 3D print a magazine cover that will mount over the magazine when the magazine is installed to keep the slugs retained. Ditto for the extra magazines...will design a cover for them because they aren't very secure in that stock holder...especially when loaded up with lead.

As far as mods I removed that horrible port cover which never worked reliably and hogged out the plastic lever guide cover which was rubbing on the push lever contributing to the high cocking efforts. Don't know how Hatsan installed the shroud end fitting but no combination of heat or torque would remove it so I ended up slotting and crushing it to get it out! Removed the shroud and was surprised to see how badly it was being forced down by the bottle mount. Ditto for the deflection of the picatinny rail. Originally thought I could just open up the holes for clearance but that is obviously a no-go with it being that far off. Plan now is to remove the bottle cover completely. Might remove or open up the one remaining shroud locator and just let the shroud free float. It is pretty hefty and fixed deep into the receiver so it doesn't need any support. The receiver comes with 11mm and 20mm rails so the plan is to mount a scope directly to those with an offset scope mount and possibly a riser if necessary.

If you look on here there's a easy mod for the rail. The bullmaster rail will solve that issue.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I saw that mod but was thinking it would be better to avoid that mounting altogether if possible. I'd be more comfortable with it if it wasn't supported by different thickness plastic pieces with different thermal expansion rates to the alloy components. That is a recipe for thermal drift. 

i took the rail off my flash pup it and the bullmaster use same rails i contacted hatsan they said on the rail not avable right now but if you use the flash pup or bullmster rail it bolt right up on the bully i took off the tank plastic guard can any you guys tell me the thread size on the out side of the shroude the o/d of the tube is 1.019 on the gta i posted all kinda adds trying to get help only person helped me was neal crage ldc guy and a guy from up north when you ask for specks on there i think half of the members dont even own a set calpers i tell you this much on my bully 30 cal barrle is .600 o/d with 1/2 20 threads on barrle the 45 cal is 16mmx1.25 on barrle i dont know what the 35 is yet but i will the shroude uses a 23mmx1.00 thread 

frined sent me this my gun looks like this now with flash pup top weaver rail problum is the rail on the bully is super long and has a notch cut out of the bottom makeing it weaker they did that for weight reduction this is a pict guy sent me but mine looks all most same lot cleaner looking