Hatsan Bully .45 QE removal

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Quad82

Quad82

Member
Jan 23, 2017
860
139
Michigan, United States
Having a bear of a time trying to remove the shroud and barrel off my .45 Hatsan Bully. I took the cap off and pulled the Oring, 2 curlers and cup out. Looks like the end of the barrel is not threaded and without a nut, like my Flashpup is. There is a black collar or something between the barrel and shroud. I have tried very hard to unscrew the shroud from the block with no luck. With my Flashpup, I can twist the shroud and loosen the nut and threaded block with out using a socket. I do use a socket to tighten the nut. I have also taken out the 2 set grub screws from the top of the block and still can not pull or even rotate the shroud or barrel with the shroud. What am I missing? Thanks Darrell
 
I Believe there is a metal baffle/spacer behind the "curler" style baffles. With that removed you will need a 14mm deep well socket to remove the nut from the end of the barrel. You can then remove the shroud.

I have a 135 QE .30 break barrel that had a mis-aligned shroud and had to loosen it to allow it to be rotated to the proper orientation.(Iron sights) I don't recall if there were 1 or 2 of these metal baffles,but once you get in there,it's no big deal. Perhaps you may need a length of coat hanger with a small hook on the end to dislodge them. Let me know how it works out for you,not sure if they changed anything in regards to the QE components.

Hope this helps 

Mike
 
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Thanks guys. 

MScottLeeman

My Flashpup has the 14mm castle nut on the end of the barrel under the baffles. I have had it apart several times. The Flashpup has the cap, Oring, 2 curlers, 2 cups and the 14mm nut. But (my) Bully does not have the nut. There is the cap, Oring, 2 curlers and 1 clear plastic cup. You can see the crown of the barrel. There is a black metal spacer or collar around/between the barrel and the shroud. I see no way to remove it. It is flush with the crown. I have put the receiver block in a vice and used a strap wrench to try and turn the whole barrel and shroud. I am afraid it I tork it any more, I will twist something. I did remove the barrel set screws first.



The-reason I am trying to take it apart is to clean and work the barrel over. I have cleaned it as well as you can with the barrel attached. I have tried several different slugs and can’t hit squat. Using Hatsan’s .454 slugs, the best I can do is keeping 7 shots ON a 8”x11” paper at 10 yards!
 
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Quad, before you go yanking the barrel out, I want you to try something and all it’ll cost you is $30. Contact Hatsan and ask to buy the scope rail that goes with the Hatsan Bullmaster. In my pics, you will see I’ve converted over. I don’t know if you’ve followed any of my past treads on the accuracy issues with these Bully’s. They are great guns, definately power thumpers. But, the design of the bottle cover attaching to the barrel shrouds was a poor design. When shooting off of a bipod, it causes flex that transfers from the bipod, to the barrel shroud bands, then onto the scope rail. Try it. Set your gun on a bipod, tilt it side to side, and you will see. 

When I first bought this gun and tried to sight it in, 8” groups, no lie. Sent it to hatsan, and yes, there was something amiss inside the valve area. Groups got somewhat better, but I knew it could get way better. That’s when I noticed the flex. 

With the assistance of Hajimoto pulling dimensions off of his Bullmaster for me, I saw that the bullmaster scope rail is a direct bolt on, and gets rid of that bottle cover. My groups big time tightened up.

if your in need of a pic rail for your bipod, contact Heavy Impact here on AGN. He makes a sweet bottle clamp with three pic rails, and it fits our bottles perfect. Looks BA also! More pics to come
 
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I realize your caliber is in a league on its own, so I’m not gonna say its equal to my 30 cal Bully. But, for $30 to swap out your scope rail, why not try it first? 

This group I show is no way an extreme benchrest group, but it’s for sure an extreme critter kill group. That’s what my gun is for, ridding the medium sized critters around here. 

That Heavy Impact bottle clamp, is shown here with my bipod attached and a QD sling attachment.
 
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Thanks Bigragu

I got it figured out. I couldn’t get on the site since last night to follow up. But here is what I have to share. 

Maybe what I came up with might help someone else down the road. I was pretty sure the barrel was junk. So I went ahead and beefed, torked and cranked on the shroud with Channelocks. I locked the receiver in a vice. Took off the QE cap, Oring, 2 curlers and 1 cup. I also took the bottle/forearm cover off by loosening the 2 pinch bolts between the barrel and the scope rail. You do need to take out the 2 top bolts in the rail also. Then the cover slides off. Took out the 2 barrel retaining grub screws and went to work with the Channelocks. I used a rubber jar/can top opener as padding under the Channelocks jaws to save marring the shroud’s paint. After what I thought was going past the point of no return, the shroud popped and came loose. That was it! Unscrewed the shroud from the recever and slid it off the barrel. The black metal collar that I saw between the muzzle and the shroud was a screw-on Oringed collar that kept the barrel centered in the shroud. The barrel itself just slides out of the reciever. But be careful not to damage the 2 orings on the end. They are on either side of the barrel port. 


So there is a difference between the Flashpup shroud and the Bully shroud. The Flashpup has a slide-on shroud with a 14mm nut to hold it to the barrel. The Bully has no nut and the shroud screws into the reciever. 


Things I did to my Bully:
Removed the flexing scope rail, removed the tank cover, cut off the second rail tower, removed the QE shroud and internals. Planning on adding a can. With the Oring spacer, Air can not pass back through the shroud like the other QE systems that have the 14mm nut with holes in it. Mounted a solid Dovetail to picatinny riser on the reciever. No more long scope rail. 

As I mentioned earlier, the barrel is junk. Factory sized for using .454 Hatsan slugs. Well I dropped one in the barrel and it slid 3/4 of the way through on its own. Didn’t take much to push it the rest of the way with a cleaning rod. No rifling on the slug. A little shinny all the way around. But no true rifling marks. When you look in the barrel, the rifling looks like very fine scratches. Reminds me of a shot-out barrel. I will be trying to contact Hatson about getting a new one.
 
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Shot another 7 rounds of the .454 Hatsan 168 grain slugs today. Better group than the others. But still a 6”+ group at 10 yards. Waiting on new slugs this week. But the barrel is trashed. Going to contact Hatsan again tomorrow.



Bigragu

I did follow your upgrades. Nice work for sure! I did contact Hatsan Thursday about getting a new barrel and a different scope rail. Haven’t heard back from them yet. So I did away with the rail altogether. Using a dovetail riser base with a 6”rail. 
 
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Try that, and hopefully it doesn’t mess with your eye relief and cheek weld to the stock. That was a concern of mine, which is why I went with the bullmaster scope rail. My scope was able to mount exactly on that Bullmaster rail as it did on the factory rail, all I had to do was move the front scope mount back about 3/4” on the scope is all, in order to catch the last picatinny slot at the front.

Are you the original owner of that gun? Its weird that the shroud was such a bear to remove. Mine threads off so easily, that it un threads if I decide to remove my moderator. 
 
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Yup. The last 2 come off with the bottle cover. The first one comes off the reciever and I removed the third one. Cut it off actually. I will remove the base of it next time I pull the bottle off. Under the first one is the dovetail on the reciever. I just used a dovetail to pic riser. For the red dot sight a short pic works fine. For a compact scope a median one works. If I use a large scope, I use a longer picatinny rail. Just like Barbi Dolls, dress them any way you like.
 
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Well I got the new .45 barrel today. Had to remove about .002” of metal/paint and or blueing off the reciever end of the barrel so it would slide into the reciever. Just used Emery cloth and worked it by hand. Cleaned the barrel real good and set up a target. It was dark by the time I got it all together and tested. But I put a flashlight pointing at the target at 30 yards. I could see well enough to shoot a couple groups. Will need to finish sighting it in this weekend. But I am very happy with the new barrel so far. First 3 shots were low but all touching. Cranked up the scope a little too far for the next 3 shots. But they too are all touching. Just waiting on Niel’s LDC and I will be ready to do a little Yote hunting.
 
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Yes I adjusted. I was maxed out. Any more and I can not set the trigger. Kind of disappointed not being able to reach Hatsan’s quoted fpe. But I am still working on it. I am sure they hit the 250/280 mark using their “special” 168 slugs. But I don’t see it happening with this gun. But it is pretty consistent for the shot count. I will be testing for 3 shots in the upper end of the string later on.
 
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