Like for camo purposes? Obviously we wouldn't want to ruin a nice wood stock, but something synthetic? I did a few AR-15's and a Ruger carbine and really liked the idea.
Has anyone ever rattle-canned an airgun?
- Thread starter steve-kville
- Start date
I always change my mind on what I want so I can't commit to rattle can just like I can't commit to a tattoo. HOWEVER I use plastidip or clothe tap so I can change color at my whim!
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I don't prep beyond a good wipe down and mask off the obvious stuff. Here's my PC carbine I did a few months ago. I like to play with patterns and the like as you can tell!
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Looks good steve!
Lot of great videos on how to rattle-can yer gun. Lot of really bad ones too, so watch a few and see what ya like. some of those paint jobs are works of art.....
Lot of great videos on how to rattle-can yer gun. Lot of really bad ones too, so watch a few and see what ya like. some of those paint jobs are works of art.....
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I intentionally want the paint to wear a bit for coolness points. I did a few AR's as well and all but one got really good, at least it impressed the wife.
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I like the PC carbine paint job you did, mine is still plain black. I wish Boyd's made stocks for air rifles I have several laminated stocks for my rimfire and centerfire rifles. I also have painted several of the wood stocks on my rifles and a light scuffing with fine sandpaper and tack cloth afterwards has always worked perfectly with no peeling or chipping off the modern paints seem to hold up really well. Since you have already painted your PC Carbine very nicely I do not think you need any advice from me. But just for laughs, my first paint job was on a Remington 788 in 22-250 I was trying to make it look like the one in a magazine black, white and gray, it ended up looking like a sick cow painted by a two year old and every time I took it to the range people kept asking me where I bought it. There is no accounting for taste.
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Daisy 880 rat destroyer. Wiped it down with alcohol, went at with rattle cans and used some native grasses for pattern. Took about 5 minutes. It's stayed good for years, just barely wearing on the obvious places. I wouldn't do this to any of my pricier guns. 
@steve-kville great job on that carbine looks great!
@steve-kville great job on that carbine looks great!
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I've rattle canned a few airguns over the years. I always used natural vegetation from the trees around the house as stencils. The trick to keeping a rattle can camo job looking good is after you apply the camo pattern and its dried for about a week, come back and put about 3 coats of clear over the top of that. I buy the clear that isn't glossy and they have held up well for years.
Thanks
Ray
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@Ray those stocks turned out nice! I really like the darker one in top photo. Thanks for the tip about non- gloss clear coat I'll have to try that.
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I haven’t done any air rifles, but plastic stocks are plastic stocks. As has been mentioned, prep is key, get the stock completely degreased. Lots of light coats, and I like a coat of textured paint part of the way through. I also like webbing spray or marbelizing paint (different brands use different terms, but it’s the same thing) on top, followed by a few coats of clear.
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I rattle-canned my old RWS M48 in some weird camo but lost the pics. It was done a long time ago. The only other thing I've rattle-canned in camo pattern was one of my old pellet traps. I did this one about 15 years ago and still use it and has held up well.
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I have done around 10 to 15 AR's as well as shotguns, some my own, some not.
I take the guns apart, and the prep consists of acetone, several wipe downs, then let it sit overnight.
I only do these in the summer time, so I can hang the painted parts in the sun.
I use Fusion plastic/metal/ wood paint that will dry fast, around 20 minutes per coat.
I apply two too three base coats, then let it dry overnight.
Next day, I apply one or two cross coats I call them in a contrasting paint to the base coat, then again, dry overnight.
The third day is when I do the camo patterns, depending on what the customer/owner wants.
The last paint I apply is two seal coats, then put the thing under a heat lamp for three days, then take 00 steel wool and buff off the shine.
I just got into PCP guns and have a very nice Brocock Sniper Magnum in .22 caliber and will do the above paint job to the gun or I will have the barrel shroud and stock cerakoted.
Sorry to hijack the thread-
I take the guns apart, and the prep consists of acetone, several wipe downs, then let it sit overnight.
I only do these in the summer time, so I can hang the painted parts in the sun.
I use Fusion plastic/metal/ wood paint that will dry fast, around 20 minutes per coat.
I apply two too three base coats, then let it dry overnight.
Next day, I apply one or two cross coats I call them in a contrasting paint to the base coat, then again, dry overnight.
The third day is when I do the camo patterns, depending on what the customer/owner wants.
The last paint I apply is two seal coats, then put the thing under a heat lamp for three days, then take 00 steel wool and buff off the shine.
I just got into PCP guns and have a very nice Brocock Sniper Magnum in .22 caliber and will do the above paint job to the gun or I will have the barrel shroud and stock cerakoted.
Sorry to hijack the thread-
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