Hammer spring adjustment for FX Verminator Extreme?

First off, much thanks for all the posts and vid's you've produced! You've helped this community immensely. I've pulled down that schematic from the FX website as well. It looks like you're correct, but the sequence to get to the part... That' s intimidating. I hesitate to get in there and start twisting on the parts in front of the adjuster. The stock doesn't remove like a 400, as it's captured by both the fill port and bottle retention unit. I've read lots of warnings about FX manipulation... but also hate to have to send the rifle away every time it needs a little adjustment. I suspect the velocity is tied with the desire for high power to have enough oomph to push arrows at appropriate speeds. I'm restricted to 20 ft/lbs.for silhouette; this rifle should be a ram killer, if I can just make it legal....
 
Old post but Im hoping u guys might still be on radar here, and whether you resolved.
I took my first “air” deer with this gun (.25) last week but after the experience Im not confident doing it again with the gun shooting at 40 fpe (210 fps). Arrow did not pass through and blood trail was non-existent. Deer likely languished some and was hell to find.

Arrow did sink 12” or so into rib cage, but this was not a heart shot and entry was high from tree stand. Deer drowned in own blood from broadhead damage to one lung.

Lethal, yes, but I’d like some power insurance to put ‘em down more confidently. A flatter shooting arrow wouldn't hurt either

i want to jack up the power on this gun for archery, and return to stock 40 fpe for lead. The power adjuster is useless in this regard. 


hammer spring or regulator? And how? Thanks?
 
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 Here is the schematic. I have the MK 2 not the extreme. The trigger shoe would not clear the stock and is a pain to remove so I sanded the trigger slot so it would clear. Removing the air fill tube is easy so you can remove the stock. Just remember to put it back on before screwing the air bottle back on. You have to loosen the copper line(C) to get access to the hammer spring adjuster. Just loosen it from (A-31) and remove it from (A-7). The first time I turned the nut on A-31 the copper line broke off. Luckily I was only two miles from AOA and Don replaced it for free. There is a locking screw (A-4) holding the bottle connector A-7). After removing A-7 just hand tighten all the way in untill the locking screw fits. No wrench needed if hand tight. It seems a little intimating the first time but after I did it it was easy. Maybe the OP has already fixed his gun but I just wanted to tell about my experience. Have fun, Scott
 
Excellent response. And thanks.
I read where the hammer spring adjuster requires heat gun to melt the loctite. True?

Also read that Its more effective when boosting power to tinker with regulator instead of hammer spring. Any thoughts?

Now that I understand the headache of getting to the adjuster, it makes me wonder if its worth the grief.

would have to do this disassembly repeatedly to make the multiple turns required to find my max arrow fps.

on the other hand, I am unconcerned about efficiency and shot count in the archery circumstance, since deer hunting is a one-shot wonder, snd sighting can be done connected to the big bottle. Maybe I just crank it full CW and dont make it complicated

would like to see 60 ft lbs. wonder if possible?