Great Backstop Material

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Ever since i upgraded from .177 to .25, I have been trying to find a decently quiet backstop material. I think I found a good one - though this probably is not new to many of you.

I found a type of modeling clay that never hardens, never dries out, and basically stays good forever. It is a type of clay called Plastilina, and the brand I bought was a Van Aken 5 pound block of solid white, from a hobby / craft supply store. Cost me $15 for 5 lbs, but it quietly stops a 35FPE .25 polymag in under three inches.

It melts at 150F, so I put it in a tupperware container and boiled it in a large pot. It melted down and conformed to the container.

I never could find any duct putty at any of my hardware stores, but this clay is good stuff, and I poured a resin mold of a polymag


My iphone is stupid, I give up trying to place these pictures right

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You can buy Plastilina from Amazon a bit cheaper that what you said. They make a semi-opaque, light milky-white version, but I've been unable to find it recently (must be due to the EPA?). 

You can also make your own silly slime from sodium tetraborate (ultra-refined borax), water, and sugar. If you mix it thick enough, it will stand up on it own, sort of like a chunk of jello. Of course, if you want the best stuff, you can buy a large chunk of reusable ballistic gel from Amazon, for about $70. 

 
What must you do to renew it after many rounds? Remelt and the pellets are at the bottom? Cut em out one by one and remelt? Other?

I keep meaning to make a lead collecting trap - regular all metal- but currently just shoot.
The one place I lived where I needed a trap, ( for a 9mm Fire 201 ) to make sure everything stayed on my property and stay legal I decided to shoot at my House ( trap leaned against the middle of House ) which the local PD said should certainly meet the letter and intent of the law and my neighbors would "be alright".
I used a burlap bag STUFFED with used shrink wrap off shipping pallets. This material has one fatal flaw in that if you shoot the same spot too much is does work through. So every so many shots with the 9mm you needed to place the sack on the ground and step on it mushing the plastic back around, or fluffed ish.
I had fun testing with it. A burlap bag - easy to carry- stuffed so it maintains a 6" depth laying flat will stop, a 200fpe 9mm , a 16" crosbow bolt fired from a 175lb unit with NO damage to the bolt and a two finger5 pull out, 22rf. ... Not practical if you shoot a lot but surved it's low budget purpose.

Want to hear more about thte product you are using.


John
 
When i started with PCP's, january 2010, anything i read was about Duct Seal. Well i built a box and got my duct seal at Lowes or Home Depot, they still have it you find it in the electrical area. My box is made from scraps of 51/4 decking boards i had left over from a decking project. I also had some copper from a roll i had for flashing. I lined the back of the box with copper, and then 3 thicknesses of duct seal. I've used this box for 8 years, takes a hand cart to move it, which i've only done once or twice.

About a month ago i decided to take the lead out of the seal. put on rubber gloves and even tho i use a lot of red dot targets, so it spreads the impact area out, over time the lead basically made lead balls the size of marbles. I removed all of the duct seal and the lead, then reused the seal, went back in place without issue. I have the bottom row sitting on the small shelf the width and depth of the box. This box is 20 yards from my shooting position in the basement.

This picture is prior to removing the seal it is now is as deep as the bottom shelf. The copper behind the duct seal had no marks in it. Shooting 177, 22 and 25 Marauders

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