Does anyone have a link to a good 3d printed silencer, I have a pretty good 3d printer and have tried a few from thingiverse, but they have been more trouble than usable, at least the few I have tried.
good 3d printed silencer (FOUND)
- Thread starter DanWho
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Check out the Geo 3-D printed LDC from airgununiverse.net ....I have one on my Steyr Challenge FT and I really like it. Very quiet and accuracy is still good.
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I tried typing "3d printing " in the search function and selected just the pcp and accessories sections and a couple of pages came up, no doubt lot's more. There are some very talents printing folks on this forum. Really wish I know enough about printing to help ( and had access to a printer!).
Not what you wanted and I didnt click any link to drawing but here's one post:
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/instructions-on-printing-3d-parts-for-airguns-leshiy-ar-grip/
Hopefully one of our experts comes along and shares the Motherload with us all.
And do keep us posted on what you end up printing.
John
Not what you wanted and I didnt click any link to drawing but here's one post:
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/instructions-on-printing-3d-parts-for-airguns-leshiy-ar-grip/
Hopefully one of our experts comes along and shares the Motherload with us all.
And do keep us posted on what you end up printing.
John
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Saw a few conversations on design and then they petered out. I sent a private message to a couple that sounded like they had gotten farther than paper and pencel drawings but got no answer back from them so far.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3601174 I kept searching and finally found this and should work very well.
I found one that printed very nicely. I printed it hot and slow with extreamly small layers to make sure they fuse together very well with 100% infill. Its in .22 so should work well for .177, .20, and .22.
The settings I used were:
.4mm nozzle but line width set to .5mm to force into nooks and crannies.
Layer hight set to .08mm since the layer hight is about the same as smoke it took about 24 hours.
bed temp 65 degrees C
filament was printed at 215 degrees C wanted it to fuse to the prior layer so set to 10 degrees over normal temp.
has 20 top and bottem and 3 walls
I tried my best to break it with bare hands and I couldn’t even make it flex so it should work very well even with higher powered guns, but with this lower temp plastic the guys with powder burners will probably burn out the centers fast.
Now all I need to do is find a sleeve with the inside ½ UNF, the outside about 16mm with a length of 28mm to force into the hole and melt into place or glue into place. If anyone has an idea where I can get a couple of these please let me know otherwise the local machine shop should be able to make one for me
I found one that printed very nicely. I printed it hot and slow with extreamly small layers to make sure they fuse together very well with 100% infill. Its in .22 so should work well for .177, .20, and .22.
The settings I used were:
.4mm nozzle but line width set to .5mm to force into nooks and crannies.
Layer hight set to .08mm since the layer hight is about the same as smoke it took about 24 hours.
bed temp 65 degrees C
filament was printed at 215 degrees C wanted it to fuse to the prior layer so set to 10 degrees over normal temp.
has 20 top and bottem and 3 walls
I tried my best to break it with bare hands and I couldn’t even make it flex so it should work very well even with higher powered guns, but with this lower temp plastic the guys with powder burners will probably burn out the centers fast.
Now all I need to do is find a sleeve with the inside ½ UNF, the outside about 16mm with a length of 28mm to force into the hole and melt into place or glue into place. If anyone has an idea where I can get a couple of these please let me know otherwise the local machine shop should be able to make one for me
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For 1/2 20 inserts: these are a bit pricey but are 16mm OD and you can get 2 or 3 inserts out of each if you cut them carefully. I used a cheap tubing cutter.
https://www.grainger.com/product/2DLY1?RIID=56985978455&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=95e9dc3af5ada28df44623551ff319c83b3eee96190964b8855b455397700f83&gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item
Or buy at Home Depot a 1/2 20 nut and file it down the sides into a round.
https://www.grainger.com/product/2DLY1?RIID=56985978455&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=95e9dc3af5ada28df44623551ff319c83b3eee96190964b8855b455397700f83&gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item
Or buy at Home Depot a 1/2 20 nut and file it down the sides into a round.
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I never even thought about using a nut, put a couple on a long bolt and put into a drill and spin on a file should make short work of it. Hopefully I can keep it centered. would be great if I had a mini lathe.
Thanks for the lead on the tubing will try that first. Not so sure I could spin the nuts and keep them centered well enough.
Thanks for the lead on the tubing will try that first. Not so sure I could spin the nuts and keep them centered well enough.
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