Thanks for the write up and sharing your knowledge. This certainly will come in handy when I rebuild my WildCat.
--Carl
--Carl
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Getting the Perfect Polish on your Airgun Parts
- Thread starter texagdds
- Start date
I found the robinson brushes- aka horsehair brushes - in the Harbor freight kit... as far as the rubber abrasive wheels like the blue one I used in the photo - I doubt it, but they can get really similar from that amazon link... they work well. FYI NMshooter - if you aren't ordering your stuff on ebay already - you can get a ton of your lab stuff on there and it's great for a fraction of the cost. I get all my zirconia/emax polishing kits off there
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Nice write up, thanks.
Run those hammers ( strikers) DRY.
On topic -to me anyway- but I didnt see mention is vibrating . May not be for all pats but a vibrator and walnut shell (or proper medium ) will polish even batches of parts well sometimes.
John
Run those hammers ( strikers) DRY.
On topic -to me anyway- but I didnt see mention is vibrating . May not be for all pats but a vibrator and walnut shell (or proper medium ) will polish even batches of parts well sometimes.
John
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Vibration with medium certainly can work great. Seems it tends to round edges sometimes when it isn't desired so I don't know about using in on trigger parts but as noted it will certainly polish.
Shofu points were introduced to our region while I was in school in the '80's. We used only pumice and tin oxide to polish until third or fourth year when the Shofu points started appearing. I don't know when they originated (a Japanese idea if I recall) but at LSU we didn't see them until later 80's.
Agree with John, dry is probably better for hammers but experimenting may always turn up something new.
Shofu points were introduced to our region while I was in school in the '80's. We used only pumice and tin oxide to polish until third or fourth year when the Shofu points started appearing. I don't know when they originated (a Japanese idea if I recall) but at LSU we didn't see them until later 80's.
Agree with John, dry is probably better for hammers but experimenting may always turn up something new.
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G
Guest
Guest
Good write up. I typically use B/C bluing and rust remover on screws, barrels, pump/gas tubes and the like. Rinse dry and use emery paper by hand from 400 to 2500 grit. to get a mirror sheen. Then use Nevr-Dull. I like the Dremel attachment kit from Harbor Freight. Good deal there. Like to use a buffer in the Dremel though.
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