FX Wildcat no cocking

I own an FX Wildcat Caliber .22. After I found an increased pressure loss of the rifle, I replaced some O-rings (Regulator was not disassembled).
After assembling the rifle, I tested (pulled the trigger) the gun with pressure at 200 bar and without loading any bullets.
Unfortunately, there is no cocking (pressure relief via the barrel). I also hear the hammer sound.
When the loading lever was pressed again, part of the pressure was released via the Breech Block, which seemed unusual to me.

Any suggestions?
 
Not an answer but maybe the same/similar problem here on a used WC I’ve been testting today.

Occasionally, when I attempt to cock the action, it will not cock fully. If I pull the trigger again I here the trigger release and hit the hammer but there is no air release. If I do this again (on purpose) - cock as far as it will go without any real force then pull the trigger, I hear the click of the trigger release then can recock fully.

If nothing else it similar and seems like and alignment or adjustment issue to me. Just haven’t had time to look into it yet. While it may not end up being the same thing here, I’ve had similar issues with the many mutants I’ve had apart. The position of the trigger linkage to the scope rail supports on them is really touchy so if anything has moved it will fail. I’ll be on the road this afternoon so won’t even be able to dig around but might be something to think about.
 
To me it sounds like the pellet probe depth might be way off. I've been tinkering with mine trying to get a little more velocity out of it. After visiting back and forth with Chuck through PM's he explained and I REALLY believe it now that if its off even a tenth of a millimeter that can make a HUGE impact on velocity, the cocking of the gun and releases of air back out the receiver. He explained that if you take the gun apart even just removing the air tube and reinstalling it that can affect the probe depth and it must be check and possibly re-adjusted and I suspect the deeper the gun is taken apart the better chance that the probe depth might be off. Here is Chucks description and procedure for checking this measurement. Hope you don't mind Chuck.

"One of the peculiar things about the design of the Wildcat is that the feeding pin (aka pellet probe) has a hole in the end of it the same size as the hole in the barrel inlet – these holes of course are referred to as the transfer ports. It is critical to have the hole in the feeding pin exactly centered over the hole in the barrel inlet. This feeding pin must be set to a certain tolerance and if it is misaligned even a little it will cause you big problems. This misalignment results in the feeding pin partially blocking the air coming up from the barrel TP hole…and even blocking the hole a thousandth makes a huge difference, and it can drive you crazy trying to figure out why your velocity is so terribly off. If the misalignment is too pronounced the hammer will not catch on the trigger sear when you try to cock the gun. One of the flaws in the design of the MK1 is that the gun will actually cock and shoot with this feeding pin hole misaligned slightly.For an example, imagine taking your gun apart to put a new o-ring on your regulator…and then putting your gun all back together. Before you took it apart it was shooting 25.4gr. Kings at 920 ft/s…but when you put it back together it shoots them at 675-700 ft/s! You know something changed but you don’t know what. When this happened to me the first time I went crazy trying to figure out what was causing this problem. In frustration and disgust I mailed my gun to AOA to have them fix it…and an arm and a leg later I got my gun back shooting correctly! Later I discovered out how to correct this problem and I will share this secret with you now. On your calipers there is a depth gauge on the one end that you can use to measure the setting of your feeding pin. Simply measure the depth by inserting the depth gauge in the hole at the rear of the breech block so that it is touching the rear of the feeding pin, and then slide the calipers up against the block. The measurement should be between 28.55mm and 28.8mm. To set this correctly you can set your calipers to say 28.55 and lock down the little stop screw. Next take a 3mm Allen key and loosen the two set screws on the “reload sliding bracket” (C9 on parts diagram). Now push the depth gauge against the rear of the reloading pin…there is spring pressure from the spring inside the “reloading bar guide” (C14 on parts diagram). So then, push against the feeding pin with the depth gauge until it butts up against the rear of the breech block…and while holding pressure on the depth gauge use your left hand to tighten one and then both of the set screws on the “reload sliding bracket”. Recheck your depth with your gauge and repeat the process until you get it right. The room for error is only .25mm…so do this carefully! For a depth gauge you could make a depth gauge on a lathe…or a bolt cut off exactly to the correct length with a large head on it that you could push in the hole against the feeding pin until the bolt head stops against the rear of the breech block. But it has to be repeatable so you set it to the same place each and every time. To see how critical this is, try deliberately setting the feeding pin to the wrong depth…say 28.0mm or 27.5mm and shoot your Wildcat over your chrono, and see the difference in velocity for yourself.Setting the depth of the feeding pin correctly also sets the Wildcats cocking mechanism correctly so that when you pull the lever back the hammer catches on the sear correctly at the right spot".

Chuck, through his trials and tribulations has been a huge help to me so maybe this will help you too. Thanks Chuck....
Jimmy
 
I just went through all of this, with one of my two Wildcat's. I broke the little "L" piece of the trigger linkage, and wound up taking the whole rifle apart. I'm not very impressed with the build quality of my "Swiss Watch". I own 8 PCP rifles, and this FX trigger, sear, loading mechanism has quite a different design from most. VERY TINY sear! I thought about trying to shim the sear, as it sits rather sloppily on a pin, in a gap that's wide enough for 2 sears! But I didn't, and after making a "L" piece out of steel, it works, so I'll leave it alone for awhile. I installed a Huma regulator, and a gauge in the bleed hole. Also installed my new ATN 4K day/night scope, and it got it's first squirrel, yesterday! :)
 
Hi Jimmy

Thank you for the information but I tried it already before as I found this in the web:
Check that the measurement from the side of the breechblock to the end part of the feeding pin is between 28,55-28,8 – if its incorrect release the 2 stop screws at the reload sliding bracket, then push the feeding pin in to the correct length and then tighten the screws while holding the feeding pin in the correct position.

My measurement is 28.7mm and I haven’t solved the problem. At first there was an measurement of 28.0mm, then I corrected it until I got 28.7mm.
After I had unscrewed the two stop screws at the reload sliding bracket, there was a pressure release at the breechblock. I am wondering why?
 
I guess when your say breech block are you saying from around the pellet probe where it slides into the barrel? Will the gun cock now and stay cocked until the trigger is pulled?
Just for grins you might try a depth closer to 28.6mm. After you adjust it cycle the leaver a couple of times and re-check the depth a few times to get a good average of where it settles. Mine had a way a moving on me. Also be sure the leaver is firmly against the gun. I used a small bungie cord wrapped around the leaver and the rest of the gun. As mentioned before a 10th of mm will make a huge difference. As far as you having a pressure release when loosening the set screws it sounds like the gun was cocked and the loosening of the screws tripped the trigger. Are you sure that the trigger "L" shaped piece that connects to the trigger linkage and move the triggers rocker didn't break as discussed here?
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/fx-wildcat-trigger-quality-issues-att-fredrick/