Fx transfer port and prope mod.
- Thread starter spyde82
- Start date
This is the one I ALWAYS forgetting to remove when I degas the gun
Two times I found it on the floor but not today...maybe tomorrow a better day to look for it Upvote 0
This is the one I ALWAYS forgetting to remove when I degas the gun
And it's one of the most important o-rings
. By the way, you don't need to remove it, when you degas your gun. I hope that someone with better english skills can explain this.Upvote 0
No worries, english was a last one I learned a decade ago and I sad tat was it, enough...nomore.... and still have spelling errors or "how I treat" people
I don't remove that oring...I am always looking for it somewhere on floor
maybe I shall learn how to degas that damn thingUpvote 0
No worries, english was a last one I learned a decade ago and I sad tat was it, enough...nomore.... and still have spelling errors or "how I treat" people
I don't remove that oring...I am always looking for it somewhere on floor
What are you meaning by degas? Like the traditional get all the air out of an Impact? If you mean this remove the bottle slowly to the point it hisses then keep going slowly and you'll feel the air pressure stop between the bottle and its fitting. Then take the black cover off the reg gauge, unscrew it also slowly until it starts hissing then wait till the pressure in the plenum reads zero on that gauge. Maybe the first time might need a wrench on the flats but I just do it by hand. When installing just do it by hand, go until theres some resistance then plan your orientation so it's the direction you want and leave it. Even not bottomed out will seal without issues.
Ahhh maybe you mean degrease the O-ring. Disregard degassing instructions lol
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Been chasing this tuning thing. Two problems...the second one I just figured out.
One. The reg adj. changes the pressure super slowly from 120-145 bar. Then it takes a much smaller rotation of the reg screw to go up from 145 to 180 bar.
Two. The main manometer is off by almost 50 bar! I kept falling off the reg when tuning and couldn't figure out why I was getting lower velocities at higher reg setting and higher spring force.
The combination of the two things caused all kinds of havoc.
Went through my entire can of 33.95 gr. JSB's till I finally figured it out.
Reliable manometer recommendations?
One. The reg adj. changes the pressure super slowly from 120-145 bar. Then it takes a much smaller rotation of the reg screw to go up from 145 to 180 bar.
Two. The main manometer is off by almost 50 bar! I kept falling off the reg when tuning and couldn't figure out why I was getting lower velocities at higher reg setting and higher spring force.
The combination of the two things caused all kinds of havoc.
Went through my entire can of 33.95 gr. JSB's till I finally figured it out.
Reliable manometer recommendations?
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A wika
And you have a hammerweight? If you don't you can raise the reg and increase hammer spring all you want and power will plateau or drop.
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yes for s first time (actually first couple of times) I didn't wanted to take a wrench so I made a blank shot and a hiss empty the reg, but what I didn't knew and keep forgetting for that little oring in the port Today my Huma parts arrived in the mail, I de-gassed (and again lost that f*n oring), but right away toke a wrench and finally replaced the FX gauge with Wika. Now me just to find that oring again I may have a good use for a spare ...just in case
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A wika
And you have a hammerweight? If you don't you can raise the reg and increase hammer spring all you want and power will plateau or drop.
Thanks. Like this one?
https://www.pcptunes.com/wika-300-bar-gauges-bottom-npt-threads.html
I never ran into a plateau relative to regulated pressure. At one point I somehow got close to 200 bar for the indicated regulated pressure and was sending the 33.95's downrange at 1025 fps. Not sure if it was regulated at all at that point.
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A wika
And you have a hammerweight? If you don't you can raise the reg and increase hammer spring all you want and power will plateau or drop.
Thanks. Like this one?
https://www.pcptunes.com/wika-300-bar-gauges-bottom-npt-threads.html
I never ran into a plateau relative to regulated pressure. At one point I somehow got close to 200 bar for the indicated regulated pressure and was sending the 33.95's downrange at 1025 fps. Not sure if it was regulated at all at that point.
At 200 bar, the hammer can't open the valve properly anymore, so I suppose your real pressure should have been somewhere around 150 bar.
Around 150 bar is the reg pressure where the performance is at it's best with a stock PP set.
B.t.w, another good way to degass is to remove the bottle, and turn the reg adjuster a wee bit counter clockwise, then it will empty the plenum volume.
@bighun how can you loose the breech O-ring during dry firing?
The only way I can think of that this can happen is when you dry fire without a probe installed. (never do that)
With the probe in the TP piece, the o-ring is always secured by the probe, and dry firing is not a issue.
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A wika
And you have a hammerweight? If you don't you can raise the reg and increase hammer spring all you want and power will plateau or drop.
Thanks. Like this one?
https://www.pcptunes.com/wika-300-bar-gauges-bottom-npt-threads.html
I never ran into a plateau relative to regulated pressure. At one point I somehow got close to 200 bar for the indicated regulated pressure and was sending the 33.95's downrange at 1025 fps. Not sure if it was regulated at all at that point.
At 200 bar, the hammer can't open the valve properly anymore, so I suppose your real pressure should have been somewhere around 150 bar.
Around 150 bar is the reg pressure where the performance is at it's best with a stock PP set.
B.t.w, another good way to degass is to remove the bottle, and turn the reg adjuster a wee bit counter clockwise, then it will empty the plenum volume.
Perhaps the regulator manometer is bad as well but it indicated close to 200 bar and the gun fired and the velocity achieved was 1025 fps. The best velocity I got before the pressure spiked was 920 fps.
I degassed and turned the reg back in and started over. Regulator is showing 140-145 bar now. Will Chrony and go up from there
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A wika
And you have a hammerweight? If you don't you can raise the reg and increase hammer spring all you want and power will plateau or drop.
Thanks. Like this one?
https://www.pcptunes.com/wika-300-bar-gauges-bottom-npt-threads.html
I never ran into a plateau relative to regulated pressure. At one point I somehow got close to 200 bar for the indicated regulated pressure and was sending the 33.95's downrange at 1025 fps. Not sure if it was regulated at all at that point.
No like this one, https://palmbeachairguns.com/product/wika-315-bar-gauge/
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B.t.w, another good way to degass is to remove the bottle, and turn the reg adjuster a wee bit counter clockwise, then it will empty the plenum volume.
@bighun how can you loose the breech O-ring during dry firing?
The only way I can think of that this can happen is when you dry fire without a probe installed. (never do that)
...my fault sitting at home (and social distancing from my office people) for two weeks and a bottle of apricot brandy in close eye proximity...To much reading about all your modding threads just hurts my mathematics...If I remember well I had the probe in my pocket to measure and remodel at least half dozen times. You people shall stop moding your guns that fast
now that cost me an oringUpvote 0
I ended buying a pair of Huma gauges because I’m not confident in what either gauge is reading. With reg showing about 160 bar it does between 955-990 fps. Trick for me was backing out the valve stop quite a bit. I’m well below maximum hammer spring preload so I could raise the pressure more and probably hit 1050 fps. Good to know there is power headroom for when I get the slug barrel.
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I've seen much older posts regarding this port design. It seems then and now, the gains are nearly identical to an elongated single port. And port matched factory probe. Very nice/clean work, however
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I just wanted to quote the picture also.
LOL! I was wondering how many times that was going to happen
Rusty (still debating ordering the lathe tools to attempt to make a Transfer Port)
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I agree that a Huma square transfer port is way bigger then the original FX 5.12 OD hole. Instead of elongating the hole I replaced that brass pieces on my 25 cal barrel, but have not made the two slots wider, yet, I polished inside milled slots walls and put some 1mm radius on top edges.
I have no machines in my house, waiting for a pin style pellet prope a friends friend to turn the piece on the lathe, that may take couple days to get into my hands.
Q: Is there a noticeable difference living the two rectangular slots width default Huma vs making the slots even more wider by hand or milling it out? Anybody made some testing with numbers before and after?
I have no machines in my house, waiting for a pin style pellet prope a friends friend to turn the piece on the lathe, that may take couple days to get into my hands.
Q: Is there a noticeable difference living the two rectangular slots width default Huma vs making the slots even more wider by hand or milling it out? Anybody made some testing with numbers before and after?
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Yes RJ installed it as Stock, only Got around 20fps or so. I Got 50-60fps with widder holes 7,2x 7,2.
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Are you talking 22c or 25c?
Because my 25c brass piece the slots are 6.5x7.0 and not logical to me .35 per side wider each slots (0.35x2=0.7 in total to get to a 7.2) would make that much of a difference?
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