Fx transfer port and prope mod.

Interesting info. Now that I have a lathe, I really need to make one of those pin probes. I only shoot slugs, so it should work well. 

As for the transfer port, it would be nice if these were available blank, so you could custom machine your own opening. I just sent Huma a message to see if that's something they would consider. 

I'm also trying to decide if there would be any harm to having an extra hole. For example, you could start with the stock FX part, turned it 180 degrees, then made a new notch, and cut the new port. That would leave the stock port on the opposite side, but the o-rings on either end should prevent that from being a problem. 

Rusty


You have a lathe so you can make the blank ones. Leaded Naval brass turns like butter.
 
That will be true at some point, but the lathe is brand new, and I haven't begun to learn how to use it. I've got a CNC mill that I'm pretty experienced with, but I've never owned a lathe before. I'll work my way up to more complex parts.

Rusty

Here's a video that will help you with single point threading if you have a basic machine but you'll need to leave the half nut engaged if you're cutting metric threads on an inch lead screw. It's really simple to back the cutter out, reverse the machine, turn it off when you're close to the start point and then rotate the chuck by hand to position the cutter for another pass. Once you do it a few times it's second nature.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-dqOi_z5bk




 
About the Huma "High flow dual hole transfer port": How does it fit on to your barrel? I have two of those, and they both seems to have a too short threading and they are tightened very well to the end. Is this going to be a problem? I don't have tools to do anything about that. Look at the pics:

Anyway, try yours, before you use the Loctite... 😉



1584707071_4283368525e74b5ff8f9af8.80820589.jpg


1584707089_2357375965e74b6110286d5.54089189.jpg


1584707115_18358513995e74b62b7b2292.47281665.jpg



 
About the Huma "High flow dual hole transfer port": How does it fit on to your barrel? I have two of those, and they both seems to have a too short threading and they are tightened very well to the end. Is this going to be a problem? I don't have tools to do anything about that. Look at the pics:

Anyway, try yours, before you use the Loctite...
1f609.svg




1584707071_4283368525e74b5ff8f9af8.80820589.jpg


1584707089_2357375965e74b6110286d5.54089189.jpg


1584707115_18358513995e74b62b7b2292.47281665.jpg



Same as mine no problems at all.
 
About the Huma "High flow dual hole transfer port": How does it fit on to your barrel? I have two of those, and they both seems to have a too short threading and they are tightened very well to the end. Is this going to be a problem? I don't have tools to do anything about that. Look at the pics:

Anyway, try yours, before you use the Loctite...
1f609.svg




1584707071_4283368525e74b5ff8f9af8.80820589.jpg


1584707089_2357375965e74b6110286d5.54089189.jpg


1584707115_18358513995e74b62b7b2292.47281665.jpg



Same as mine no problems at all.


Doesn't hurt anything since the o-ring will be be pushed and seal to the outer face. if the gap were 1/4" it still seal the same.
 
Quick question guys. My port just came in the mail. I know you have to heat it up to break the lock tight. Any chance of smoking any o-rings in the process? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sure the o-rings will burn, if you don't remove them. Take out one o-ring from inside the transfer port, and two from the outer side. It's very easy thing to do with a bent needle or something like that. I used this kind of tool (US $1.31 from Aliexpress):

1584733662_1832186235e751ddea52075.28777908.jpg

 
Quick question guys. My port just came in the mail. I know you have to heat it up to break the lock tight. Any chance of smoking any o-rings in the process? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sure the o-rings will burn, if you don't remove them. Take out one o-ring inside the transfer port, and two from the outer side. It's very easy thing to do with a needle or something like that. I used this:

1584733662_1832186235e751ddea52075.28777908.jpg


Before using the pick... dull and polish the pointy ends so that they won't scratch metal easily. When removing an o-ring from a groove, push the point straight down beside the o-ring on the sealing side with the pointy end parallel to the o-ring then rotate the handle to move the pick under the o-ring towards the non-sealing side of the grove to lift the o-ring. This will prevent scratching a sealing surface that would drive you crazy later with a slow leak.

1584736142_10237045425e75278e818933.09183526.jpg

 
Before using the pick... dull and polish the pointy ends so that they won't scratch metal easily. When removing an o-ring from a groove, push the point straight down beside the o-ring on the sealing side with the pointy end parallel to the o-ring the rotate the handle sideways towards the non-sealing side of the grove to lift the o-ring. This will prevent scratching a sealing surface that would drive you crazy later with a slow leak.

👆 Yes, very important and good advice!
 
Thanks, kind of figured probe and outer rings. Just didn't know if there was one in the stainless sleeve I needed to worry about. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.


It doesn't require enough heat to burn them anyway. Apply pressure and heat just enough until you feel the loctite release. Give the heat a few seconds to soak through before heating anymore.