FX Royale 500 hammer spring adjustment

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Cliff_Allen

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Jul 14, 2015
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maine, United States
I'm leaning towards not doing anything and leaving my gun alone, but I was curious, if the mood ever struck me how would I go about adjusting the hammer spring for increased velocity. I took the stock off to check it out and there is an allen key slot in the butt of the block but it appears to be paper thin and I don't want to put an allen key in there and turn it for fear of stripping it. 

I've looked all over and can't find any youtube videos or pictorals or anything explaining the process. 

Thanks in advance for any help!!

Regards,
Clifff
 
mine is locktited , they say you can heat that allen nut thing up and move it. i had to cut mine out on my 400. i have been told that they are starting to use something other than lock tite. i would advise you to go ahead and order a $10 spare if you are considering it. i have also read about drilling a hole on 2 oppposite sides of the nut thing and useing needle nose pliers to break the lock tite loose. i would also look at utube. there is a nice and knoledgeable man on here that could help, when i remember his name i will pm it to you
 
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Thank you PlanB! I was looking specifically for Ernest's video's and the only one I can find is about how to adjust the regulator. I like your idea about drilling the two holes and using needle nose pliers to free up the nut. Now that you mention about the locktite, it makes me wonder if they locktite it so that the nut doesn't move during normal shooting and inadvertently change the velocity. 
 
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Hey Cliff. It sounds like it's the same design as my wildcat, which I stripped out. Ernest Rowe suggested as PlanB stated, drilling 2 holes opposite each other in the outer area and turn it using needle nose pliers. I did that, and even heating it up with a propane torch first I still couldn't get it to turn. What I ended up doing was making one slot by removing the little bit of material between the center hole and the small holes I drilled. That allowed me to use a large flathead screwdriver In the slot and I was able to finally turn it.
 
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Thanks for the tip FastEddie! How did your adjustments work out? Were you able to successfully alter the velocity? Have the new settings/velocity remained consistent after breaking the locktite? Any snags, or tips or hints in general on adjusting the nut? I'd love to hear about your results and how you got there. 

Thanks so much for sharing your experience, I'm having a hard time finding any info about this online.
 
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CHUCK did a post on here about his results adjusting the hammer spring tentioner on his wildcat. Me along with a few others had the same results. I don't know if these results pertain to just the wildcat, but this is what we found. The hammer spring tentioner from the factory is set 7 1/2 turns in. This gives the .25 wildcat a velocity around 900 fps give or take with the 25.4 kings. It only turned in around 9 turns total, but it lost velocity. ?? Weird. Even at 8 or 8 1/2 turns the velocity was lower. It seems 7 1/2 turns is the sweet spot, and the highest velocity. You would think compressing the spring more would hit the valve harder allowing for more air, but the only thing we could think of is that the distance the hammer traveled was too short after tightening the hammer spring to get any additional velocity out of it. I don't know if this is the case in other airguns, but it seems to be in the .25 wildcat. I also used a little blue locktite. Make sure to put a mark , scratch in the hammer spring tentioner as a reference point to keep track where it is now and to count how many turns. Keep us posted . Good luck
 
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Cliff, mine has always turned easily enough but not so much that I've ever caught it creeping back out. If you do want to experiment just mark the adjuster and receiver with pencil and have at it. It doesn't hurt a thing. I'd try a 1/4 turn increments CW to increase power or CCW to lower the velocity. If your gun is regulated the regulator set point is the main determining factor. You can still alter the velocity up to a point but the regulator is still 90% of the factor. What speed are you shooting now ?
jimmy
 
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"FastEddie"CHUCK did a post on here about his results adjusting the hammer spring tentioner on his wildcat. Me along with a few others had the same results. I don't know if these results pertain to just the wildcat, but this is what we found. The hammer spring tentioner from the factory is set 7 1/2 turns in. This gives the .25 wildcat a velocity around 900 fps give or take with the 25.4 kings. It only turned in around 9 turns total, but it lost velocity. ?? Weird. Even at 8 or 8 1/2 turns the velocity was lower. It seems 7 1/2 turns is the sweet spot, and the highest velocity. You would think compressing the spring more would hit the valve harder allowing for more air, but the only thing we could think of is that the distance the hammer traveled was too short after tightening the hammer spring to get any additional velocity out of it. I don't know if this is the case in other airguns, but it seems to be in the .25 wildcat. I also used a little blue locktite. Make sure to put a mark , scratch in the hammer spring tentioner as a reference point to keep track where it is now and to count how many turns. Keep us posted . Good luck
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Thanks FastEddie, so if I'm understanding you correctly, there was not much if any to be gained by adjusting the hammer spring? Did you guys all end up going back to the factory setting?
 
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"jking"Cliff, mine has always turned easily enough but not so much that I've ever caught it creeping back out. If you do want to experiment just mark the adjuster and receiver with pencil and have at it. It doesn't hurt a thing. I'd try a 1/4 turn increments CW to increase power or CCW to lower the velocity. If your gun is regulated the regulator set point is the main determining factor. You can still alter the velocity up to a point but the regulator is still 90% of the factor. What speed are you shooting now ?
jimmy
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Thanks jking! I'm currently shooting at about 890 with the JSB Kings and 769 with the JSB King Heavies. I had sent it back to AOA for a stuck valve in the bottle and while there they also increased the velocity of the gun from about 856 up to the 890 per my request but I don't know if they did it with the regulator or the hammer spring. 

Would it be more likely that I'd have better results adjusting the regulator? I've had it apart before so I'm familiar with how to get the regulator out but I've avoided adjusting it simply because of all the warnings from other members about that being the last thing you should attempt. 

If I do end up adjusting the gun in any way, my goal would be to get the JSB King Heavies shooting somewhere over 800fps, maybe mid 8's?

Thanks so much again for the help!
 
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Be warned! The regulator is a fickle beast. I finally got mine to settle at just under 150 BAR with no creep. The recovery from 125 to 140 is slow after I shoot a round, but I am praying it with work into a more favorable series of actions.

When I received my 500 Royale from AOA after they installed the reg 3 years ago, I could turn the fps with Kings up to 930, but I found that 900 gave me a more controlled shot cycle and way more quiet. I think I actually got at the hammer spring adjuster before their Loctite cured. I too found if the adjuster is turned too tight, a lower velocity will result.

Fast forward to to the present and when my outer O-ring nick caused my 10 bar a night drop, I took the reg out and thought I measured it correctly. I was wrong. There are three things that determine the regs setting on my FX 500.

1) the brass end cap that has the nozzle in the center. This can be screwed in or out compressing the o-ring as you turn. This was my first mistake, I unscrewed this and tighten a bolt into the reg and pulled it out. I never measured the countersink of this cap first! Just put some masking tape on a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the whole reg straight out leaving this cap undisturbed. Grap the nossle. 

2) the brass knurling knob, turn it in and you shorten the stroke which I found lowers reg pressure. It can actually be adjusted so close that it touches the brass end cap and chokes off the incoming air. The Delrin plug meets the inside of the end cap.

3) the Teflon nut puts pressure on the Belleville washers and pulls the valve face (Delrin plug) away from the port which is the brass end cap.

all three have to be "set" right for the reg to work properly. I only turned the end cap in until it was seated hard and my reg would only go to 40 BAR. I then loosened it to .025 inch countersunk from the reg body and adjusted the other two variables. You can actually raise and lower the reg pressure be adjusting each independently. Loosen knob - raise pressure or tighten Teflon nut -raise pressure. Both actions move the valve away from closure. This may sound crazy, but it is like a bird trying to fly- both wings have to be in tune to give flight.

I have not touched my hammer spring nut in years, but by having the regulator change I got these readings---
reg pressure Fps w/Kings
125. 895.6
130. 902.8
135. 917
140. 915 on average
145. 934
150. 939
155. 943
160. 911-920
165. 900
170. 900
175. 880
200. 812

If you want to adjust your reg you must mark it first! 
I used a wood working chisel to scratch a very precise mark in the knurling knob/reg body. And the Teflon nut/valve core
A micrometer is not precise enough and a 5x magnifying lens will be your friend. Make one deliberate scratch on each area and use these as a benchmark. Use the micrometer measurement to only get you close and the mark to get it right on. Also, because I replaced the internal O-rings, the Teflon nut measurement was not working. I think the new rubber was not "seating into position" and causing my calibration errors. Also, a good slathering of silicone oil on the o-rings helped me.

When You unscrew and screw on your bootle under pressure it wears the black coating off the threads. Clean the inside of the bottle neck and the male end the bottle screws onto with a cleaning patch. This filth makes its way into the regulator and causes creep. 

I have learned a great deal over the last few weeks. Most of all shooting my gun is more fun than putting tins of pellets through the barrel for testing.

I have ran my shoebox more for this reg testing than for shooting by 10 fold.

Good luck. 

 
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"TrapdorSpydr"Be warned! The regulator is a fickle beast. I finally got mine to settle at just under 150 BAR with no creep. The recovery from 125 to 140 is slow after I shoot a round, but I am praying it with work into a more favorable series of actions.

When I received my 500 Royale from AOA after they installed the reg 3 years ago, I could turn the fps with Kings up to 930, but I found that 900 gave me a more controlled shot cycle and way more quiet. I think I actually got at the hammer spring adjuster before their Loctite cured. I too found if the adjuster is turned too tight, a lower velocity will result.

Fast forward to to the present and when my outer O-ring nick caused my 10 bar a night drop, I took the reg out and thought I measured it correctly. I was wrong. There are three things that determine the regs setting on my FX 500.

1) the brass end cap that has the nozzle in the center. This can be screwed in or out compressing the o-ring as you turn. This was my first mistake, I unscrewed this and tighten a bolt into the reg and pulled it out. I never measured the countersink of this cap first! Just put some masking tape on a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the whole reg straight out leaving this cap undisturbed. Grap the nossle. 

2) the brass knurling knob, turn it in and you shorten the stroke which I found lowers reg pressure. It can actually be adjusted so close that it touches the brass end cap and chokes off the incoming air. The Delrin plug meets the inside of the end cap.

3) the Teflon nut puts pressure on the Belleville washers and pulls the valve face (Delrin plug) away from the port which is the brass end cap.

all three have to be "set" right for the reg to work properly. I only turned the end cap in until it was seated hard and my reg would only go to 40 BAR. I then loosened it to .025 inch countersunk from the reg body and adjusted the other two variables. You can actually raise and lower the reg pressure be adjusting each independently. Loosen knob - raise pressure or tighten Teflon nut -raise pressure. Both actions move the valve away from closure. This may sound crazy, but it is like a bird trying to fly- both wings have to be in tune to give flight.

I have not touched my hammer spring nut in years, but by having the regulator change I got these readings---
reg pressure Fps w/Kings
125. 895.6
130. 902.8
135. 917
140. 915 on average
145. 934
150. 939
155. 943
160. 911-920
165. 900
170. 900
175. 880
200. 812

If you want to adjust your reg you must mark it first! 
I used a wood working chisel to scratch a very precise mark in the knurling knob/reg body. And the Teflon nut/valve core
A micrometer is not precise enough and a 5x magnifying lens will be your friend. Make one deliberate scratch on each area and use these as a benchmark. Use the micrometer measurement to only get you close and the mark to get it right on. Also, because I replaced the internal O-rings, the Teflon nut measurement was not working. I think the new rubber was not "seating into position" and causing my calibration errors. Also, a good slathering of silicone oil on the o-rings helped me.

When You unscrew and screw on your bootle under pressure it wears the black coating off the threads. Clean the inside of the bottle neck and the male end the bottle screws onto with a cleaning patch. This filth makes its way into the regulator and causes creep. 

I have learned a great deal over the last few weeks. Most of all shooting my gun is more fun than putting tins of pellets through the barrel for testing.

I have ran my shoebox more for this reg testing than for shooting by 10 fold.

Good luck. 

Click to expand...
Trapdor,

That is the most comprehensive write up/ explanation of how to adjust a regulator that I've seen. You have a keen sense of empathy because you are able to describe things for the most part taking into consideration that the person you are talking to has no idea what any of the parts are or what they do. I'm at work right now but when I get home later I'm going to re-read this in more detail and try to digest it. I'm not gonna lie, I might have some more questions later haha. Thank you so much for taking the time write this out in such detail! Your efforts are greatly appreciated!

Cliff
 
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"hsnmz"There is no need to touch the regulator. The regulator is set to 140 bars from factory. You can get higher velocity by just adjusting the hammer spring.
Click to expand...
hsnmz,

Are you referring to hammer springs in general or specifically the Royale platform. The answers that I've been getting from people that have tried to adjust the hammer spring in these specific guns are saying they ended up returning to factory settings because they turned out to be the best. My understanding, and please let me know if I'm off base, is that turning the hammer spring in much further past factory in the Royale's, actually results in a loss of velocity in these guns. Thank you in advance for any light you can shed on the matter with any experience you've had with the Royale platform.

Cliff
 
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Yes if you don't touch the reg and only adjust the hammer spring it will lose speed after a while, however if you raise the reg pressure and give the hammer spring tensioner a turn in or two you will get more FPS than you ever did at the lower reg pressure. I've got mine set around 155-157 and i can get 10FPE to 60FPE all by adjusting the hammer spring. I had it set at 163 or so and got over 60FPE but wasted lots of air. This is just the experience I've had on one gun not saying yours will be exactly the same but FX Royale 500 with the 2 stage power adjust.

I found the reg very easy to get to and adjust and didn't waste much air. Just unscrewed the bottle then bled from the stock screw each time rather than empty the gun with the bottle attached. Pulled it out with needle nose wrapped in electrical tape as Tominco shows and didn't touch the brass end at all just turning the nut that compresses the washers. Mine has a red nut that doesn't seem to be nylock like others I've seen. I can take it apart and adjust the reg in about 5 minutes and waste about 10-15 BAR of air, it's nothing to be scared of. Very important note, if you drain the plenum using the route I said and use the stock mounting nut (10mm flats on it) make sure when you're done that you snug it up reasonably firm then attach the bottle before you screw the stock on. You don't want the stock screw overtightened then when you want to take the stock off next time you'll be pulling the stock mounting nut out of the block losing air then end up with the nut still with the screw into it and action out of the stock. Long story short make sure you keep that stock mounting nut that screws into the action tight and the stock mounting screw not as tight.
 
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