FX Impact X-twist barrel mounting mod

Question below...but read this first:

I have an FX Impact with the thumb-dial grub-screw securing the barrel on the right side frame (see photo). From other AGN threads I learned that the new Impacts now have a grub-screw that is recessed inside that same thread. The thumb-dial screw is gone, instead FX uses a hex screw to secure the barrel through the same existing hole in the right side frame. The screw grubs the barrel by seating inside a dimple on the barrel. So I went to Home Depot and purchased an M6 x 6mm hex screw. This supposed to help with the original thumb-dial screw loosening in some cases ( I never had that issue).

This setup is fine, albeit as in the attached video Ernest Rowe describes too much pressure by the grub screw could push the barrel to one side and may cause misalignment. The reason for the misalignment is the possible over-compression of the barrel supporting o-rings which "float" the barrel in several places. This could move the aim-point.

I found out the new X-twist barrels (at least my 700mm X-Twist .25) do NOT have any dimples anymore. The grub-screw supposed to be tightened against the barrel as the single point of contact holding the barrel from sliding. My understanding is that the FX Crown has two grub screws (no barrel dimples). I am concerned about this single contact point requiring more pressure than with the dimple. This extra pressure by the screw may cause a barrel misalignment that could throw off the aim-point. 

So, what I was wondering...add an identical grub-screw exactly the opposite side of the existing one? (to the left side also)

The two opposing grub screws would not only help secure the barrel better from sliding, but also would ensure that the barrel is not misaligned by over-tightening the single right-side grub screw.
I am not a machinist, nor do I have any special equipment...but (correct me if I am wrong) should be able to add the opposite grub screw this way :

1. Remove the left side "shield"
2. Drill a pilot hole though the existing right -side hole (using it as a guide) in to the opposite side --- see the wrench in the photo
3. Finish drilling out the hole on the left side from the outside
4. Tap an M6 size thread in the left side hole just created
5. Cut out a small hole in the shield just over the new screw-hole and remount the shield
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Ernest Rowe's videos on alignment issues:
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I have a 25 cal, 700mm barrel from Joe Brancato due at my door in the next day or two. I never thought to ask if there were any modifications I would have to make to the rifle or new barrel. I don't like the idea of friction being the only thing that keeps the barrel from becoming a 450 dollar projectile.
I read another post where the barrel was counter sunk for the retaining screw. I will be interested to find out witch is the better solution.

Tom
 
I think you’ll find the grub screw works really well. It has a sharper edge and will mark the barrel very slightly but it doesn’t move. I machined a Lw barrel about a year ago and have used the grub screw to sercure it and it’s been very consistent with poi. 
One suggestion is to replace the barrel orings with stiffer nbr 90. They will resist being deformed more. 
You just have to take a little more care inserting the barrel because there stiffer there easy to nick. 
Also if you do swap barrels frequently don’t forget to replace the other orings that support the barrel as they will wear a little over time. 
Im not sure about the 700mm barrels but the Crown barrels have a stainless steel collar for the grub screw to work against. 
Your idea is good but I’d give the grub screw a go first. 
Michael 
 
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"DeadEyeDill"That is good idea.
I'm thinking it may be easier to drill a dimple on the new barrel? If your worried about it slipping and think the dimple worked for you with the old barrel then drilling the barrel may not be a bad idea. I don't know if the nee X barrels would allow it though.
The X-twist barrels have a removable sleeve inside, so I gather they are not as thick as the standard smooth twist barrel. It may limit the depth of the dimple, but I guess you do not need a very deep one to hold it in place. Again, the alignment may be another issue if over-tightened...
 
I drilled a small dimple into the new barrel and used a set screw to hold it in the receiver. To keep from having to over torque the screw to keep it from backing out I drilled the screw in the threads and installed a piece of nylon this keeps the screw from moving due to vibration. Ruger has been doing this on their Single Action Revolvers for years.
​Now I just turn the screw in till it makes contack with the dimple and haven't applied to much pressure.

​The new Barrel shoots great a lot better than the standard very happy at this point the real test is time.