FX impact power wheel new idea!!

I would like to share with you guys a new idea for the power wheel of the FX impact, it's just an idea and can be improved or changed if required. All the measurements in the drawing is just to explain the idea better. 

The idea is to change the power wheel from the current cam design to a new design. The new design instead of Max 5 4 3 A B C Min will be Max 10 9 8 ... 3 2 1 Min. The variations between Max, 10, 9 to 6 will be very minimal and the variations will increase the lower you go. From 5 to Min the variations are much bigger and will increase the lower you go. 



Two things will improve. From Max down to 6 you will get slight velocity drop which will improve fine tuning. From 5 down to Min can be designed as half of the current design cam or much smaller half cam or whatever velocity drop is required to get the velocity down if lighter weight pellet or very low reg pressure is required.
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The drawing is just to explain the idea better. What do you think guys? 


 
I ever understood the reasoning why they have basically the same settings only one in numeral and the other alphabetical. I like your idea, I’d like to try one too. Although you might have an issue with too much free travel on the lower settings.


They are not the same settings. The letters are powers in between the numerals as far as I can tell.
 
I think FX may have made the cam this way so it can be turned a full 360 degrees. With this new design, you could go from max to min and then you’d have to turn the wheel back the other way to get back to max. instead of just continuing in a circle back to max. Unless maybe you made a slope up the side of the cam so it wouldn’t get hung up on the sharp drop between min. and max. Most of the guys I shoot with set the HS pre load and then don’t need a whole lot of extra adjustment on the power wheel. I hope I’m wrong and this power wheel is a great success. I love the ingenuity and creativity. Good luck.

Stoti
 
When I had my impact, I made something similar except that instead of a cam it was perfectly rounded with 12 dimples drilled into, so that the m3 grubscrew dropped into. Each dimple was drilled to a different depth, giving different tension and therefore velocity.


I did it that way for 2 reasons, firstly it was much easier to make and it is impossible to accidentally adjust the power as you need to pull back the block with your thumb, before you are able to turn the wheel.



Bb
 
When I had my impact, I made something similar except that instead of a cam it was perfectly rounded with 12 dimples drilled into, so that the m3 grubscrew dropped into. Each dimple was drilled to a different depth, giving different tension and therefore velocity.


I did it that way for 2 reasons, firstly it was much easier to make and it is impossible to accidentally adjust the power as you need to pull back the block with your thumb, before you are able to turn the wheel.



Bb




There’s an even easier solution. I might give that one a go . I’d like to drop my min setting so that I could shoot some 18.1 gr at 850. Right now it’s above 950 . I’ve tune the max to shoot the 30gr bbt at 1010 fps. 
 
Tor47, yes there are detents in the back allowing the power to be adjusted very repeatable. Just as the Fx power wheel works, but with 19 levels. Its fits into the Fx housing with out any modifications other the changing the wheel it's self. 

Stoti Thanks! The FPS changes about 3-5 FPS per setting. Pending in the tune and regulator setting. Allowing for a 80-100FPS change from Min to max. the wheel doesn't make top to the bottom any different in FPS, It only adds fine adjusts in the middle.

Right now I'm in the r/d stage of my power wheel. As Today I work thought the manufacturing hurdles and testing. I hope there may be a day when I can send some of my power wheels out for all to try. I've got a hand full of them out being tested right now. After a few thousand shoots I'll be comfortable to send others out for more testing. 

Mont
 
Thx, look very nice. After reading this post, I am tempted to buy an extra power wheel if they are not to expensive, and drill some holes on the letter side (taken from bucketboy`s idea), and leave the number side as is. I do not use the letter side anyway. I can measure the steps from "max" and down to "min" by adjusting the wheel on the gun, and use a caliper to measure the gap, and carefully drill the same steps on the holes on the letter side. That would make the letter next to "max" as the new "min". I do not have a machine shop, but guess it can be done with a drill press at work.

Edit: It may not nescesarry work. It will depend on how much distance is left from "min" and in to the center of wheel. There will also be more "meat" on the wheel as one drill deeper.