FX Impact Disassembly Help

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Mark_Walt

Mark_Walt

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Dec 9, 2015
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I have an Impact in .25 caliber. Whenever I shoot the rifle there is a puff of air that hits my cheek. I contacted AOA about this and they told me that 99% of the time this is the breech o-ring.
I went ahead and replaced that and it did not solve the issue. They told me that the 1% of the time when that is not the issue the o-ring that is blown is basically in the center of the gun. I believed what happened was I put the .25 barrel back on and I thought I had the barrel screw down, but the barrel was actually 1/4" from being fully seated. I have gone ahead and disassembled the gun as far as I can, but have run into an issue with not having a .7mm allen key (you can see in the photo). Does anyone here have any idea of where exactly in the gun I need to be looking for this o-ring? So far the gun really isn't that complicated, but that one screw is preventing me from really being able to delve into the internals. Of course I haven't shot the gun in about 3 month and now want to get this fixed ASAP now that it's not 90 degrees outside.
AOA told me what it would cost to have them fix the gun so I'm trying to avoid paying that cost. I know it will be pretty much the same price if I screw something up while trying to fix the gun, so worst case scenario I still have to send it in, but best case I am able to fix it.
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That grub screw is .9mm, you need a MIP hex driver, or similar driver also don’t strip that head! Heat that part first.

I am assuming you have the troubleshooting guide? Also you need to download the parts diagram, I think that they are talking about part B28, if not then ask them to reference the specific part.

the guide is available via download link somewhere on this forum...

it it can be done! But watch the AOA vid concerning the reg for the correct removal procedure. Also Ernest’s videos are a god send! Thanx Ernest!!!

if you have it apart like that then definitely inspect all the orings, part c3 also gets banged a lot so be prepared to replace that...

is is that an RC Tx I see in the first pic? If so then you probably have the MIP!!! Like I did
 
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Well I already have the whole gun apart and did in fact already print out the parts diagram and AOA has already sent me a full rebuild kit for the gun. I will try getting an MIP hex driver and that's good to know it's .9mm. I just found out that FX USA will be located 30 minutes from where I live so I will be hopefully able to get help from them soon if I don't get this solved on my own without needing to send the gun to Phoenix.
 
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So I went ahead and tried the suggestion of the valve stem disassembly to see if that was in fact causing the issue. Upon putting the gun back together when I screw the bottle in there is a hissing sound (leak) coming from somewhere in the circled area. I don’t know if any of you all know off the top of your head what might be causing this. Thought I’d go ahead and ask since it’s 10pm EST and I should probably go to sleep now. Maybe one of you all will have posted your suggestion by when I wake up; lol. I really appreciate all of the help that this community has to offer. 

Also i did not remove the regulator or anything else Pat the valve stem o-ring so I’m not sure if that helps. I did try to remove the valve stem to as I thought that would easily come out like in a powder burner so I’m not sure if I screwed something up when trying to do that as that is kind of in the same area, but I just have a feeling in my gut that that was not the where this issue came from. 
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One of two things, one of the orings is not sealing, or the reg adjustment screw may be in too far or not far enough.

this happens to me sometimes, I turn the screw all the way in while not pressurised, then back it out three full turns, then try to pressurise.

there is a bleed hole on the right side of the action, and the reg itself, most times a leak from there can be fixed by good depth of the adjuster, while a leak fro the reg usually indicates reg oring.

i sure hope you have a set of orings, those reg orings are pretty fiddly to work with, one definitely needs a set of good oring tools to remove and replace, especially C35...

also what hvack said, that small tube oring gets pinched very often too.
 
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I ran into some impact that the customer strip the head on that set screw, it’s an easy fix;

the set screw is on the smooth part of the rod not on the threads, the threads has a smaller OD then the OD of the Rod so your not going to damage the thread if you unscrew the hammerrest, all you have to do is have a needle noise vice grip just behind the off white oring that’s acting as a bumper, not supper tights on the vice grip now get another vice grip on the hammerrest where the set screw is then turn the hammerrest CCW it the vice grip slip tighten down the vice grip more and try again, most of the time it will unscrew only one time it didn’t then I had to heat the hammerrest the burn the thread seal— you my hear a pop while heating that means the gas at the end has no where to go but out the other opening and that’s the sign to turn the hammerrest CCW.

the rod and the hammerrest are made of titanium they will only get light marks from the vice grip.

good luck
 
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"riazp"One of two things, one of the orings is not sealing, or the reg adjustment screw may be in too far or not far enough.

this happens to me sometimes, I turn the screw all the way in while not pressurised, then back it out three full turns, then try to pressurise.

there is a bleed hole on the right side of the action, and the reg itself, most times a leak from there can be fixed by good depth of the adjuster, while a leak fro the reg usually indicates reg oring.

i sure hope you have a set of orings, those reg orings are pretty fiddly to work with, one definitely needs a set of good oring tools to remove and replace, especially C35...

also what hvack said, that small tube oring gets pinched very often too.
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I haven't yet needed to use any silicone grease as the o-rings already seem to have it on them, but will go and pick some up tomorrow. I never messed with the regulator so I would be hesitant to think that this leak has to do with something inside the regulator. This leak definitely occurred from my attempt at disassembly. I was also worried about using soap bubbles because I don't want to have some water stay inside of the gun on accident and have it cause rust.

 
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"sniperlabyo"I ran into some impact that the customer strip the head on that set screw, it’s an easy fix;

the set screw is on the smooth part of the rod not on the threads, the threads has a smaller OD then the OD of the Rod so your not going to damage the thread if you unscrew the hammerrest, all you have to do is have a needle noise vice grip just behind the off white oring that’s acting as a bumper, not supper tights on the vice grip now get another vice grip on the hammerrest where the set screw is then turn the hammerrest CCW it the vice grip slip tighten down the vice grip more and try again, most of the time it will unscrew only one time it didn’t then I had to heat the hammerrest the burn the thread seal— you my hear a pop while heating that means the gas at the end has no where to go but out the other opening and that’s the sign to turn the hammerrest CCW.

the rod and the hammerrest are made of titanium they will only get light marks from the vice grip.

good luck
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I assume that you are talking about the set screw in the 2nd photo I have posted. I have not yet done anything with the screw so it currently is not stripped. From your videos it looked like I can just remove it by unscrewing the other end of the hammer assembly negating the need to worry about doing anything with that screw.
 
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"hvack"Use soap bubbles to find your leak. It looks like it may be right behind the pistol grip where the regulated air tube is clamped by the bolt . If that's it you will need to take that apart and replace the o ring and try putting it back together real slowly, not to pinch the o'ring there, it's a tricky spot.
Click to expand...
Here’s a trick so the oring don’t get nick:

that tube clamp has a narrow opening so when the oring gets compress it will follow the least resistant —so up the gap the oring will go —- > so at the end of the gap get a smooth Allen head and push the oring down flush and slowly push the reg tube in and you do the same on the 2nd oring. 

Works everytime —- so many I lost count.
 
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"sniperlabyo"
"hvack"Use soap bubbles to find your leak. It looks like it may be right behind the pistol grip where the regulated air tube is clamped by the bolt . If that's it you will need to take that apart and replace the o ring and try putting it back together real slowly, not to pinch the o'ring there, it's a tricky spot.
Click to expand...
Here’s a trick so the oring don’t get nick:

that tube clamp has a narrow opening so when the oring gets compress it will follow the least resistant —so up the gap the oring will go —- > so at the end of the gap get a smooth Allen head and push the oring down flush and slowly push the reg tube in and you do the same on the 2nd oring. 

Works everytime —- so many I lost count.
Click to expand...
Is this technique shown in any of your videos? I'm more a visual person when it comes to this.
 
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"Mark_Walt"
"sniperlabyo"I ran into some impact that the customer strip the head on that set screw, it’s an easy fix;

the set screw is on the smooth part of the rod not on the threads, the threads has a smaller OD then the OD of the Rod so your not going to damage the thread if you unscrew the hammerrest, all you have to do is have a needle noise vice grip just behind the off white oring that’s acting as a bumper, not supper tights on the vice grip now get another vice grip on the hammerrest where the set screw is then turn the hammerrest CCW it the vice grip slip tighten down the vice grip more and try again, most of the time it will unscrew only one time it didn’t then I had to heat the hammerrest the burn the thread seal— you my hear a pop while heating that means the gas at the end has no where to go but out the other opening and that’s the sign to turn the hammerrest CCW.

the rod and the hammerrest are made of titanium they will only get light marks from the vice grip.

good luck
Click to expand...
I assume that you are talking about the set screw in the 2nd photo I have posted. I have not yet done anything with the screw so it currently is not stripped. From your videos it looked like I can just remove it by unscrewing the other end of the hammer assembly negating the need to worry about doing anything with that screw.
Click to expand...
Yes the set screw on the photo, the treads sealer holds way better then that set screw, now on newer one they don’t have seat screws just two hole with no threads.

strip or not with the vice grip it will unscrew.
 
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"Mark_Walt"
"sniperlabyo"
"hvack"Use soap bubbles to find your leak. It looks like it may be right behind the pistol grip where the regulated air tube is clamped by the bolt . If that's it you will need to take that apart and replace the o ring and try putting it back together real slowly, not to pinch the o'ring there, it's a tricky spot.
Click to expand...
Here’s a trick so the oring don’t get nick:

that tube clamp has a narrow opening so when the oring gets compress it will follow the least resistant —so up the gap the oring will go —- > so at the end of the gap get a smooth Allen head and push the oring down flush and slowly push the reg tube in and you do the same on the 2nd oring. 

Works everytime —- so many I lost count.
Click to expand...
Is this technique shown in any of your videos? I'm more a visual person when it comes to this.
Click to expand...

No, after some brain storming I seen why the oring getting cut. Will make a video in how to: got 2 impact here waiting for me the touch them. 😃
 
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