FX IMPACT: First Video - Changing C3 Bumper

Excellent, thank you! I've been looking for videos about specific (and likely) changes for the Impact like this. This complements Ernest's videos nicely. 

I usually wrap my teflon tape with the direction of threads and it looked like he went the opposite direction. Just a habit that probably doesn't make a lot of difference if any.

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Jajaja I was waiting for that! Is better like you said, true I thought about it when I start, but I didn't want to make a longer or a new one video...In the future I will make it better

@pigeonman not saying you did it wrong, just saying that is wrong to affirm that if the hammer seat is locked, the only way is to take the gun apart. Just that. You can make more damage with a wrench than heating that area. , But hey! You made it and that is what matters

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Too minor to worry about. Excellent video.

Haha, anyone spot the slight error during re-assembly? I said very slight too. Any plumbers or oil field workers notice it? Great video by the way and I'll save it.

Jking

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Ding! bandg nailed it. No fluid going through the joint so there is little risk of it being pushed out over time. The only thing you might encounter is it bunching up and rolling off as you are trying to thread the outer piece on. Again I wouldn't sweat it for this application but a good habit to form is applying in the direction of threads.

edosan, 

Thank you so much for taking your time to share. Keep the information flowing I am learning a ton from you and the others here.

I had to take my whole gun apart to get to the c3. Cause I wasn't able to remove the metal piece that sit next to the c3. I had to take everything apart to get the whole spring, hammer, and rod out. Then I was able to clamp it down and twist the metal piece off. Your is probably loose that's why you didn't have to take the whole gun apart. But for some that fx had loctite. You will still need to take the whole gun apart.

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Wrong, if it has loctite you just need to torch it a bit (even with a lighter), very simple. I do not speak for just 1 impact experience. That is why I use teflon instead of loctite for that part. (hammer seat)

But thanks for that info, I will add a note 2 on the comments of the video.

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I could have used a torch. But I didn't want to use it on a $2000 gun and damage it. So I just took the whole back of the gun apart to get the rod assembly out. Then clamps the rod down and twist the metal piece off. It was difficult to twist it off if it's loctite and still inside the gun. Didn't want to put too much force and stracth the gun. A lot easier to take the c3 out if the rod is outside the gun. But more work of course.

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Running a BIC lighter back and forth along the metal briefly isn't going to do any damage. Neither would propane.

I cut a C3 "bumper" out of a credit card. It is thinner @ .75mm, easy to make, and works great. It was an experiment between that and a 3.15mm thick delrin bumper. There was no noticeable change in FPS between .75 and stacking them to nearly 4mm.

Yes Jimmy, I immediately spotted him wrapping the PTFE Teflon Thread Tape on the threads in the wrong direction! Edosan, you should wrap the tape in the same direction to tighten the nut on the thread so the tape gets tighter as you go and not loose like your video. Here my friend, have an ice cold one on me -  - and you will do better next time!  Keep up the good work Edosan! 

And Stoti, all I can say is WOW! Great paint job! You have taken one of the most inherently ugly airguns and made it beautiful! I may breakdown and buy one now with the idea of painting it up nice with some Duracoat...I especially want to paint the ugly air bottle something nicer to go with the rest of the gun.

Hi All,



Good video Edosan, regarding the rod and hammer stop, for those who are/were into RC cars/planes/heli you should have what is called a ball link plier, these are great at clamping down rods, as well as turning in turnbuckles onto rods. I have two and I use one to grip the rod and one to grip the stop, while on the gun and only removing the scope rail and valve adjuster. If you have strong hands or a vice grip plier that will work too. as others have said a torch or lighter to heat up the locktight is perfectly safe.



link for illustration only: https://www.amazon.com/Revolution-Deluxe-Ball-Link-Pliers/dp/B0006O810G

Powerful video Endosan, thanks, are you mr Rowe from Chile? I am from Caribbean, I have Fx Impact x .25, you have a good tuning for it, i’am Throw Jsb 25.4 grains, thanks again

Good video.

I use purple Loctite 222 on the hammer seat so no heat needed next time I remove it. Automotive RTV sealant also works well to stop bolts from vibrating loose and doesn't require heat for disassembly. It only takes a dot of either.

I use a Knipex Pliers Wrench with smooth parallel jaws to hold onto smooth parts like the valve rod or hammer seat without marking them. Also works great as a wrench since it never slips or rounds corners. Seems like a high price but they are top quality and well worth it.

Edosan, thanks for making the videos. My one week old 30 cal Impact MKII suddenly dropped speed. After some research, the most probable cause is the C3 O-ring. Using your method, I changed the C3 Oring to a dulrin washer. It fixed the problem and gained 25 FPS speed with the same reg pressure. Next, I’ll try your pellet probe and barrel mods.

Edosan,

I used your video yesterday and replaced the O-ring with a Delrin bumper that I made on my lathe. The process was very easy and took about 10min to install. I regained the velocity that seemed to have dropped off. As tune it was shooting 44.75gr 30s at about 905. After installing the Delrin my first shot was 947fps but then it settle at 935 for the next few shots. I was wondering what effect a thinner or thicker bumper might make? The O-ring measured out to about 1.8mm the bumper I made was a little thinner at just under 1.5mm. Of course the original being a softer material probably netted less actual benefit. Anyway thanks for all the Impact information you have graciously shared.

Yeah, mine came apart and never would thread on completely. Finally sent to SPAW for complete rebuild. Would like to mention, there is an adjustment to shaft length. Also, in magazine well, the end of rod is suppose to be flush. Video didn't go into that!

But, this is one of the best videos on this repair. BRILLIANT!

I was wondering what effect a thinner or thicker bumper might make?

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It's not noticeable, 1mm to 3mm is OK.