FX Impact barrel support

Lots of folks, me included, hate the idea of a barrel being supported by a single grub screw. Yet FX continues to make $2000 guns with that system, even as they develop innovations like the Maverick and M3.

I'm no engineer, but I think the answer is that the grub screw doesn't 'support' anything. Its job is to LOCATE the barrel by, in combination with the locating pin that mates with the notch in the transfer port, controlling fore-and-aft movement and rotation of the barrel. In firearms terms, it controls headspace. In fact, last week after a cleaning I noticed a big drop in POI and the chrono showed a 30+ fps drop. I had seated the barrel assembly just a hair short of fully. Shoved it back in place, tightened grub screw, problem solved.

Ahead of the brass transfer port section is the steel segment Ernest calls the adapter. It has two raised bands which very closely fit the channel in the rear block. Very closely. After I bent my barrel sleeve (the outer blued tube which contains the liner) I found that I could not re-insert the barrel assembly into the rifle until I had rotated it to a certain position. When I went t replace the bent sleeve, even though I was careful, I caused a subtle burr on one of the bands on the adapter. I could not get that gun back together until I looked at the adapter under magnification, the oh so carefully smoothed away the burr with a fine Arkansas stone.

Then of course there are the O-rings in the forward and rear blocks, and on the transfer port. So all in all I think there is quite a bit of support, and quite precise at that, and the grub screw just keeps things from falling out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stone02
The single point of retention is likely not a good thing if one decides to tension the barrel and, although I never had a problem with it, it is easily fixed by drilling and taping for another set screw. Mostly to over engineer as far as I have seen because I had no failure with the single screw.

The installation of the extra set screw, putting tension on the barrel and replacing the four o-rings, supporting the barrel, with 90 duro really tightens things up and puts my mind at ease.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/never-ending-mods-on-the-gen1-5-impact-x/?view=all#post-1026963
 
Always be sure you have a problem before you fix it. My experience with FX is limited, and will remain so. I have a Royale that, IMO is a good gun. Had a Crown, could never achieve consistent POI performance. I think the issue is not the retaining system as much as all the parts in the barrel assembly design; i.e., liner, sleeve, shroud, moderator, etc. I'm not saying they are not excellent rifles, they're just too complicated for my taste. Seems like design and marketing has outrun production integrity. Just my opinion, and as my wife says, I'm probably wrong.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stone02
Lots of folks, me included, hate the idea of a barrel being supported by a single grub screw. Yet FX continues to make $2000 guns with that system, even as they develop innovations like the Maverick and M3.

I'm no engineer, but I think the answer is that the grub screw doesn't 'support' anything. Its job is to LOCATE the barrel by, in combination with the locating pin that mates with the notch in the transfer port, controlling fore-and-aft movement and rotation of the barrel. In firearms terms, it controls headspace. In fact, last week after a cleaning I noticed a big drop in POI and the chrono showed a 30+ fps drop. I had seated the barrel assembly just a hair short of fully. Shoved it back in place, tightened grub screw, problem solved.

Ahead of the brass transfer port section is the steel segment Ernest calls the adapter. It has two raised bands which very closely fit the channel in the rear block. Very closely. After I bent my barrel sleeve (the outer blued tube which contains the liner) I found that I could not re-insert the barrel assembly into the rifle until I had rotated it to a certain position. When I went t replace the bent sleeve, even though I was careful, I caused a subtle burr on one of the bands on the adapter. I could not get that gun back together until I looked at the adapter under magnification, the oh so carefully smoothed away the burr with a fine Arkansas stone.

Then of course there are the O-rings in the forward and rear blocks, and on the transfer port. So all in all I think there is quite a bit of support, and quite precise at that, and the grub screw just keeps things from falling out.

Yeah it doesn't support it, keeps it from falling/sliding out as you mentioned. Anyone have a problem with a snugged single set screw causing the barrel to go flying out of the gun? No, sure sounds good to complain about though.

The tighter barrel tolerance in the M3 block sounds like a good idea though.

Also the way the probe enters the barrel and TP sends air up and through it theres minimal load on that screw at any rate. Not like the blast of air is being held back by that screw, it isn't.
 
My personal opinion and many could hate me for this...

That setscrew (or grub screw some folks calling) shall even not be there. Makes more harm then any good to some people.

Me as an engineer and designer, I would replace it with a spring loaded ball/plunger to snap in to a cone in the barrel adapter. If you want to remove/replace the barrel you just click it out and click= back in again. This way the centering tension would stay consistent. I can imagine some people overtightening that set/grub screw pushing it to the opposite wall instead of letting the barrel "float" on the oring centered and without any tension/torque inside that rear block.

Fx Impact was designed around the idea having a free floating barrel and sleeve. Stiffening that mechanizam will suffer the quality and my best opinion again...."you" shall not even buy the Impact at a first place. "You" like a big thick stiff barrel there are other models on the market specifically designed that way. 

Just my 2c






 
My personal opinion and many could hate me fir this...

That setscrew (or grub screw some folks calling) shall even not be there. Makes more harm then any good to some people.

Me as an engineer and designer, I would replace it with a spring loaded ball/plunger to snap in to a cone in the barrel adapter. If you want to remove/replace the barrel you just click it out and click= back in again. This way the centering tension would stay consistent. I can imagine some people overtightening that set/grub screw pushing it to the opposite wall instead of letting the barrel "float" on the oring centered and without any tension/torque inside that rear block.






People would mess that up too, think lowest common denominator haha.