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FX Crown 100yd accuracy Part 7- SCORING IN LIGHT WIND

I decided to try to practice scoring at 100 yards using the EBR targets that Centercut put a link for in his post on the "100 yards with a Thomas" thread. Wind was very light(0-5mph), but swirling into, behind, left, and right. I began by shooting the 4 small corner bulls on this splatterburst target:

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I held on the center of the upper left bull and shot 10 shot group to get a feel for how much the wind was affecting the pellets and which flag combinations to watch. Then I shot 10 times at the lower left bulls, but held for the wind trying to make each pellet hit the center. I did the same for the right side. This is one of the best "scoring" targets I've ever shot. Later on, when the wind completely died down, I decided to check if the Crown was still "on", so I put this target back up and shot a 10 shot group holding on the center bull.

I then refilled to 240 bar and placed 4 of Centercut's EBR targets(I had printed on heavy paper) on the backboards at 100 yards. I was very pleased with how well I had done on the splatterburst practice target and I thought I was going to score really well. Wrong. WRONG!:

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I refilled to 240 bar and shot at the next two targets:

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Walking down to collect the targets, I thought I had done much better. When I got close enough to see them I was shocked. Ugh! I realized that my scope(Vector Taurus 5-30x56) wasn't high enough magnification(or high enough quality) to REALLY SEE the pellet holes. I remember kind of struggling to see where pellets landed on the sighters, and thinking I was hitting Xs(but they weren't). I had so much confidence after the practice target that I just ASSUMED the shots were going where I thought they were, and kept on shooting. I think the only holes I ACTUALLY saw were when a pellet hit in the white(away from the red) or when 2 pellets hit close and opened a bigger hole. I was adjusting and shooting without proper feedback(that I was used to getting from the splatter targets). Shooting those EBR targets was WAAAY different(and tougher) than I thought! Now you may realize why I put the practice splatterburst target back up and shot the center bull. Finally I took the targets inside and scored them(to the best of my ability).

Ugh, still a looong way to go and more work(and $) to be done.






 
I’m going to re-do those targets and replace the maroon with a light yellow color. The holes will be easier to see.

I think now you see why I stopped shooting groups and mostly shoot targets for score. As far as I’m concerned groups are really for gun and ammo testing. Once that is done they serve no purpose. Shooting for score will make you a better shot much more quickly than shooting groups.

It also highlights why a quality scope is important. I recently upgraded to a 15-60x52 Vortex Golden Eagle and it’s amazing how much of an improvement Tier 1 glass makes.
 
I decided to try to practice scoring at 100 yards using the EBR targets




There is a slight advantage that can be had by shooters at the EBR event in that the whole card is printed on large format paper. So that if you are very careful to plumb the target when hanging it, you can see the alignment of the scope in greater accuracy by lining up the extended cross hairs on rows and columns rather than just shooting at one round bull.
 
I’ve been shooting it at 40x at 100 yards. Seems to be a good magnification.

I have seen many articles stating that higher magnification doesn't improve your accuracy but this is not what I have found to be true. I find that the higher the magnification, the finer the aim point. Unless there is a situation of a big target card with rows and columns to line up on. I see many people here buying 16x scopes which is ok for a quick target acquisition for hunting out to 40 yards, but is less than ideal for punching paper at longer ranges and can't range find with the side focus wheel very well beyond 40 yards where it really counts.
 
Your cards will actually score much higher than you have scored them. All of these competitions are scored with a .350-.357 plug to eliminate the disparity between the guys shooting different calibers. Otherwise, it would be foolish to shoot anything but .350”.


it’s also not going to be a zero if you are off the 7 ring. There are plenty of other rings left. The lowest score is a 3. If you double shoot a target...you are awarded the lowest score of of the shots minus 1.


It’s good to understand the scoring methods and acclimate your eyes to the corrected scores so you can have a ready defense for when your card is scored incorrectly at a competition. It happens.


As I told Mike...I turned some plugs the other day and if you want one I will seed it to you.

Mike 




 
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Centercut,

Thanks for the input and advice. Please leave the targets as close to EBR or realistic "tournament" style/color as possible. I think it is good practice to shoot in the same(or slightly tougher) conditions as you would in competition. I have been moving toward practicing shooting for score in my last few posts. I TOTALLY get what you have been saying about just shooting groups vs practicing scoring on tournament style targets(and the importance of actually participating in tournaments), but does gun/ammo testing ever really end? I know that(FOR ME) I tend to shoot/score my best when I have the most CONFIDENCE. I gain that confidence by periodically "checking" equipment and functionality. Develop regular cleaning processes, look at pressure gauges to check for air leaks, visually inspect gun and scope before shooting, check pellets for obvious defects, shoot to "warm up"(regulator, barrel, action, etc..) shoot a group(or magazine, if that's what it takes) to understand how the gun/scope/pellet is performing at a given time.

I have seen posts where someone is asking for help with a problem(POI shift, pellets not grouping the same, more flyers than usual, gun making funny noise, poor gun or pellet performance). Some of them of them end with: "...found the problem: it was a loose ___" or "I hadn't noticed but ____ had changed" or "Specifications said____, but when I actually measured it was___". So I(and would encourage everyone to) try to perform my "due diligence" and be thorough in checking/inspecting/testing/measuring anything I can MYSELF regularly. I find the more of that I do, the less doubt I have, the more confidence I have, and as a result, the better I preform.

That being said, every gun/scope/pellet is different. Some require less checking than others. I do a lot less to my hunting/pesting gun(.22 Edgun Lelya 2.0). But then again, there's a big difference in hunting accuracy and target shooting accuracy. The Lelya only needs MOSH accuracy from 14 to 80 yards, which it does flawlessly.
 
sendler2112, 

Thanks for the input. Good point about using the outer part of the crosshairs to know where they meet(framing, I guess). The 18g JSB @ ~875fps get moved around pretty good by the slightest of breezes at 100 yards. I found that I needed extra magnification to actually see the pellet holes, so that I could adjust for wind drift. I have my best luck by waiting for consistent windflag movement, shooting a sighter, seeing where it landed, then firing 1 to 2 quick shots(using holdoff/over/under) before the wind changed. 
 
Here is the pdf of the actual EBR target sheet. You could take this to Staples and have them printed on a full sheet to use the actual target and see what I am saying about using the rows and columns to line up the whole crosshair all the way top to bottom and side to side of the paper. Which kind of makes it like having extra magnification and will eliminate any chance of changes to cant.

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http://www.extremebenchrest.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/FullTargetReduced.pdf

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The file name says FullTargetReduced but it is actually full sized. When printed at 100% the 9 ring is indeed 1.25" as specified.

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http://www.extremebenchrest.com/extreme-benchrest-rules/

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