FX Boss help

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BeemanR7

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Jan 25, 2017
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I recently bought a lightly used FX Boss (safe queen). I noticed that it isn't grouping like it should. After close examination I see that the rear shroud bushing is lightly touching the air bottle. When I fill the bottle, it gets warm and it stretches in length and touches the cutout in the rear shroud bushing, which tends to push the muzzle upward changing POI. My question is: How to remove the shroud and move the rear shroud bushing forward just enough to clear the air bottle? I've never seen an instructional video that depicts how to remove this shroud and rear bushing. I suspect it is probably lock-tited on and will require a bit of heat to soften before I can make an adjustment.

Also, sometimes the gun is very quiet (even backyard friendly). But other times it is LOUD, and the POI shifts dramatically high. I suspect the regulator needs broken in (like I said, it's a safe queen and has had no more than 400 total rounds through it since new). I have not yet chronied it but will do so ASAP to verify. But the change in report almost convinces me that the regulator is having teething problems. I'm hoping that a few hundred more rounds will solve the issue.

Any experienced Boss drivers out there who would like to help?

BeemanR7

Mod edit: moved to PCP


 
Where the shroud slips over cone shaped piece (it might possible be threaded too) you'll have to heat this up and the shroud will come off. My 400 and 500 required more heat than I thought it would. Once the shroud comes off there will be a hex set screw on the cone piece. Just loosen it up and the cone piece will slide on the barrel. Readjust and snug it back down. You can use some vibra-tite or semi permanent Loctite to put it back on.

As far as the loudness of the gun, I think your going to need to shoot it over a chrony to see how the regulator is performing.

Jimmy
 
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Unscrew the shroud from the piece touching the bottle. You may need to use some heat as they are generally lock tighted on. The piece touching the bottle just slides on the barrel and is held in place with an allen grub screw. Reset it so it clears and give it a try. Also while it's off you can shoot it to compare accuracy without the shroud. Boss is a good gun. Really like mine. sylvan
 
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That's about what I figured. I hate to put a flame on that pretty shroud, but, that's what everybody has to do. I'll see to it today if I have time. I already took the end cap off and found the two little pin holes in the end of the shroud for the spanner wrench to remove it. I think I may have some old broken numbered drill bits that will serve for pins to unscrew it after I warm it a bit to soften the locktite. Can't wait to get this beauty shooting right. I've already seen what this baby can do. Yesterday, before I refilled the gun, I put a whole magazine through a hole smaller than my thumbnail at 50 yards. It was no fluke of luck, either. The afternoon sun was just right and I watched every round fly perfectly to that same hole. I won't get it chronied today, though. It's so freeking hot and humid that I can't breath. I'm working indoors today. I'll let you all know how I get on with the shroud.

Thanks for the help.

BeemanR7
 
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Done already!!! That was anticlimactic. Now there is uniform space between the bottle and the shroud and there will be no more POI shifts because of bottle interference. All I have left to do is shoot it over the chrony when it cools off and the humidity drops a bunch.

Thanks fellas. I may need more help if it is determined that the regulator needs some nursing. That issue may resolve itself after a few more rounds. We'll see.

BeemanR7


 
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In case anyone is interested, I used a regular hardware store variety propane torch to warm the shroud. I kept the flame moving rapidly and constantly so as not to concentrate heat in any single spot, but to heat the threaded portion gradually and uniformly, while at the same time applying constant counter-clockwise pressure on the shroud with the other hand. Suddenly the shroud turned and I immediately removed the flame and continued to unscrew the shroud by hand. I didn't need to use a wrench of any kind, nor the pins as seen in the AoA video. It was all done by hand and there was no discoloration of the shroud as is usually seen by those who focus the flame on one particular area.

The set screw that secures the rear shroud bushing to the barrel required the use of heat also, but I chose an electric soldering iron to localize the heat right on the set screw. After a period of heating, I'd try to loosen it with the allen wrench. If it didn't budge, I simply applied the soldering iron to it again. After the third heating session, it finally yielded. I simply repositioned the rear bushing forward a bit to make uniform clearance for the air bottle and reset the screw. Viola! Done!
 
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