FX and Daystate…… My take on installing a bipod.

Forums Other Parts, Accessories, & Equipment FX and Daystate…… My take on installing a bipod.

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    Dirte
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    I have been hesitant about drilling into the wood on my FX and Daystate, Both guns have beautiful wood to boot. Well I took the plunge! This is my take on how I enabled the use of a bipod on a bottle gun. After searching all over on “how to” threads/videos, I could not find very much information. In fact I found more on synthetic stocks.
    WARNING! The following was used for my rifles and really encourage others to measure measure measure!!!

    Here is a list of products I used for the FX Royale.
    Screws for rail- http://www.ebay.com/itm/292102776777?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Rail- http://www.accu-shot.com/catalog_new/accessories/64-bt15-335-1913-rail.html
    T-Nuts- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPELS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1/4 Brad point drill bit
    3/4 Forstner bit

    Here is a list of products used for the Daystate Wolverine 2
    Swivel stud- https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Mikes-Swivel-2-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B002E6T1NU/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1494767094&sr=1-4&keywords=swivel+stud
    Bipod adapter- https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Stud-Picatinny-Adaptor-Model/dp/B00YH8XLHK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1494767388&sr=1-2&keywords=utg+bipod+adapter
    Swivel stud drill bit set- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162QGXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    3/8 Brad point drill bit
    FX Royale

    For the FX Royale I started with finding the center line. Tominco did a good video on finding the center line and installing a rail on a Royale synthetic. https://youtu.be/cbNUsqGztmw

    After locating the area I wanted my Atlas rail to be installed, I drilled a pilot hole with a tiny drill bit. I used a small bit give me a guide to locate from the other side, using a forstner bit to inset the T-nut. Notice how I placed it aft enough, to get out of the bottle channel where I have some meat to hold.

    Drill with the forstner bit just enough to clear the T-nut (set it upside down in the pocket).

    Next I flipped the the stock over again where just the pilot hole was drilled, and followed it with a 1/4 brad point drill bit. I like brad points because they do not tear the wood when they enter or exit the hole. The second hole uses the same process. The wood is thin here so take the forstner cut to just clearing the T-nut no more!

    Little tip here…… when pulling the T-nut prongs into thin hard wood, I dimple the three spots with a super tiny drill bit to keep it from splitting.

    From the pictures above, you can see the rail installed and off with just screws. I like this option, because it can be used on a bag or bipod. The 10-32 button head screw set has a nice selection of lengths to aid in not grinding bolts.

    Daystate Wolverine 2

    The Daystate has very little wood in the bottle area to bite into. I wanted to do an Atlas rail like the FX but a 1/4 of wood is just not going to work. I decided to go with a swivel stud and adapter. Placing the hole 2 13/16 back.
    I first found center and used calipers to find the best place to drill without exiting on the bottle side of the the stock. The way the fore grip is cut, it angles up. This is helpful because the stud is angled into the meat of the wood rather than the dished area for the bottle. I leveled the stock in the vice so the bit would travel the correct path.

    Using a 3/8 brad point drill bit I inset the hole big/deep enough to countersink the stud just a bit. I like how this looks versus riding on top of the wood.

    I used a drill bit set just for installing swivel studs (which wasn’t necessary because I used a brad point to counter sink the stud) to drill the correct pilot hole for the screw to bite into. Just drilling as deep as the stud is long. When installing/turning the stud in…… I aided it with a bit of dish soap for lubrication.

    I used the UTG adapter because I like how it fits the fore grip. It also has a rubber base to keep it from marring. From the picture it looks bigger than it actually is. This really feels strong and holds the bipod well.

    If you have an Atlas the adapter needs to be shaved on one side due to clearance issues. A picture before paint touch up.

    Put one on the Airwolf as well.

    I’m very pleased with the outcome and will do this to other rifles I may own. I hope this may give some sort of guideline to others thinking about trying it.

     

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    Deja
    Spectator
    Spectator

    sweet excellent job

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    GQ
    Participant
    Member

    very good job.

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    Mousefart
    Participant
    Member

    Outstanding work

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    crittahitta
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    I like your backyard even more.

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    Regal_US
    Participant
    Member

    Great work fitting the mounts. Your garden and workshop are also amazing.

    The FX stock looks a bit dull compared to the Daystate. Any thoughts on refinishing (I have the same issue)?

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    Dirte
    Participant
    Member

    “Regal_US”Great work fitting the mounts. Your garden and workshop are also amazing.

    The FX stock looks a bit dull compared to the Daystate. Any thoughts on refinishing (I have the same issue)?

    Funny you say that…… I was thinking about getting a bit more gloss. 
I have always used tung oil. Very easy to use, and the more coats the shinier it gets. 

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    kraftnow
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    Great job!  Looks like you know what your doing.

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    fsa46
    Participant
    Member

    Outstanding, quality  workmanship. Nice pics and report. Yep, very large balls to take on a project like this with high dollar guns. My hats off to you Dirte.

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    1BadDart
    Participant
    Member

    Those are sexy rifles! Good job on the bi-pods.

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    Dirte
    Participant
    Member


    Added a few pictures of the Crown. The aft bolt I used a barrel nut due to the limited room with the gauge.

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    pooterjoe
    Participant
    Member

    The Daystate Wolverine 2 HP Hi-Lite 303 has a very shallow area where the picatinny rail needs grasping into the wood.  What is the best system to be utilized that will allow secure attachment of the rail?

     

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    aussiegav
    Participant
    Member

    Nice job I'm glad it was you doing it and not me.

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    Tweeter
    Participant
    Member

    I have always just drilled 9/64 holes and partially tap it 10-24 (learned from Toms video).  Then just secure the rail (usually Bt17) with 10-24 button head machine screws.  It has always been super solid and worked for me but this time I will follow your method with the 10-32 and t-nuts on my Veteran .25 due to arrive tomorrow.  It can't get much more solid than that!  Thanks for the info!

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    kabil88
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    nice work 👏

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