F(ugly)WB 300S

This poor Feinwerkbau 300S is barely limping along. I was looking for a new project, so I adopted it.
The Good...She still has her parts intact and functioning properly(well...mostly).
The Bad.... She need rebuilt, re-blued, and refinished.
The Ugly...Its gonna take a lot of time and money to whip it into shape.

Here is a preview of what she looks like right now.
 
 
"ironlion269"
"jps2486"These rifles always seem to rise from the ashes.
Let JoeWR get his butt-burning hands on it and that comment may actually be a prophecy!
There will be no fire involved in the refinish. If I can help it. ;)
Been wanting something different lately.
So am thinking maybe a carbon fiber hydro dip on the stock and satin nickel plating on the metal parts.

Below is a quick photoshop rendering of what I have in mind. The plating is pending on how accurate the rifle is.
 
Your eBay beauty appears to be a club gun....I watched with great interest to see how much some one would pay for the cracked wrist...unless the crown is boogered, she should shoot with the best of em....as bad as the wood looks it can be restored...but I like your carbon hydro dip idea too.
please give us progress reports....I love seeing these old school tackdrivers being rescued and "personalized" in all ways to the owners tastes and specific use....there are plenty of pristine safe queens for those preservationists....I encourage you to make it yours as you see fit.
 
@10X
Yea, I have watched quite a few of these club guns go for crazy prices. The cracked wrist wasn't too much concern. Been there done that. Acraglas or Tightbond II work well. Stippling also makes it easier to hide the fracture than checkering.
Rust pits on barrel do factor into the price. I dislike cold bluing and most brands I've tried yield mediocre results at best.
The crown looks in good shape to my eye. Already have new springs and ring/seal kits in the parts bin. Will post accuracy results when rebuilt and wrist repaired.
 
Finally got around to giving the fugly rifle a face lift.
Here are some refresher pics of it before.
The barrel, action and stock were all in rough shape. Lots of light rust pitting, worn bluing, dents, dings, mars and a cracked wrist.





Started out fixing that crack in the wrist.
First I pre-drilled and sank a wood screw through the wrist as a means of finding the exact position after cutting the stock for gluing.


Then, with a bandsaw, sliced from the top down through the wrist to the end of the crack separating the butt from the forearm. Notice the original wood dowel pin. Apparently not enough epoxy was applied at the factory as it just twisted out easily.


A very thin piece of maple was used to fill the gap caused from the bandsaw. Applied Tightbond III to the mating surfaces, started the wood screw,

wedged in the maple shim to fill the gap and tightened the screw snug to pull it all together.



After letting it set up over night, I removed the wood screw and drilled down through the wrist and inserted a hard wood dowel.







Then reshaped the dowel end to match inletting.


Lots of steaming and sanding was done before oil finish was applied.

Sanded the metal parts by chucking it in drill press and working from 120 thru 2000 grit sand paper. Then buffed bare metal to a shine.
Went through the Cold blue process using Brownells Oxpho-Blue creme.



Rebuilt the internals with new dual spring set and seals from Nikkonos out of Canada.


Here is what she looks like now.





This project was a little time consuming but well worth the effort. I think she turned out great.
 
Thanks guys. I had set this one aside for awhile debating which direction to go with it. Originally wanted something different like a satin nickel finish on the metal and carbon fiber hydro dip on the stock, but in the end, chose to just restore it to a close similarity of how it came from the factory.

@davemac18__Still breaking it in, but 10 meter accuracy is .08ctc indoors off a sandbag using H&N Match Pistol (4.49 head). Too cold to do much shooting outdoors at the moment.

If it were a heavy recoil rifle I would probably use metal rod, but I don't think it's necessary on this model.

@fsa46__I'm usually never totally happy with cold blue, but this blue job is the best I've done. Even looks great in the sunlight. I spent more time than usual sanding/polishing the metal on this one which I think made a difference.

Steven