For those with OLD EYES whose eyepiece moves when focused out

Several methods have been posted on how to stabilize an eyepiece that moves too easily once screwed out to focus for "older" eyes. Some state that the eyepiece moving cannot move the crosshairs in relation to the target but I have put my AR into a service vice clamped to a table and any touch on the eyepiece moves the crosshair in relation to the target with a Bushnell AR223 scope. I wanted to eliminate that movement. Use of o-rings has been suggested by several posters (thanks to those persons) and I used that method for a time. It works pretty well but it isn't rigid. But I found a way to rigidly lock the eyepieces on my scopes that do not have a locking ring.

Go to theoringstore and search "nylon wear rings". These are apparently designed to go on a piston, much like the Yong Heng/AV/Tuxing etc. rings but they are much larger. They are made apparently of a "nylon 66" type material-rigid but flexible enough to be put onto the scope eyepiece. These are listed in various diameters, cross section thickness, and width. I ordered 1.5 inch diameter size by 1/8 inch cross section in both 3/8 inch wide and 1/2 inch wide. My eyes are pretty bad and the 1/2 inch size is still way too wide. 3/8 size required quite a bit of sanding to fit. I should have ordered 1.75 diameter size because the measurement is for the outer diameter but it worked for my scope because the rings can be placed in boiling water and softened temporarily to allow fitting. 

Focus your eyepiece and then turn out about a quarter turn, maybe a bit over that. Using sandpaper, sand the side of the ring until it just fits into the opening between the flange of the eyepiece and the rear body of the scope tube/housing. Then you can tighten the eyepiece ring down and it will snug up onto the nylon ring which can be stretched over the end of the eyepiece and will spring down snugly onto the eyepiece tube. You can tighten the eyepiece down as much as desired but I couldn't get more than about a quarter turn once the ring was in place. This effectively "locks" the eyepiece so that it cannot move once tightened. It cannot shift if bumped but can be easily loosened by hand. It took about a half hour to sand the ring down to fit since you need to keep checking width until it will just fit into the space. And every person will have a different amount of eyepiece opening to fit it to.

Anyone who thinks this is something they could use should remember that the measurement is for the outer diameter of the rings. Measure the eyepiece tube where it screws into the body of the housing and choose a ring size that can fit. My tube measured 1.5" and that is what I ordered-1.5" x 1/8" cross section x 3/8" witdth. 1.75 in 1/8 cross section would probably have been perfect as that would have a 1.5 inch center diameter but as noted these can be placed in boiling water and softened to fit to place after sanding. They will stretch enough to go over the tube and then try to return to original size making them snug. The 1.5" size I bought really is a snug fit and doesn't move on the tube at all once snapped on.

Hope this might be helpful to those needing it and thanks to those who suggested the o-rings as they did function.
 
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I use THIS on a lot of airgun applications and stretch it pull it play with it for a little while make it solt roll a thin worm o-ring or 2 wrap around inner eyepiece and back off threads a lot put on threads if exposed otherwise unscrew eyepiece fully extended tuck it in as you screw it in. Same with loose side focus and front AO wheels that move too easily and wobbly target turrets.

Also good for screw threads prone to loostening that you dont wanna locktite.

Also great for fixing accuracy issues like wobbly poor machining thread LDC adapters and LDCs poor tolerance threads wobbly QC on the most popular brand LDC that you forced to go plus one or plus 2 sizes because of the not perfect threads.

Bedding stocks that you don't wanna duck tape or duct seal for better accuracy and no wobbles.

Tighten loose PCP dust filler covers that rotate. Don't get it nowhere near your fill hole though.

Wobbly adjustable cheek and buttstock fix.

Fix your wobbly Atlas Bipod clone once and for all to make it 90% as good as the real deal. (Just that one side leg can't help much you know what I am talking about! Buy 2 clones to make one that's 99% perfect).

Put a dab on the magazine where it wobbles in the breech.

Put a hairline bead on your press fit tins of pellets.

Put it at the end of your stick pick up pellet you dropped.

Shop local unless you get free shipping.

FEEL FREE TO Shop elsewhere if you really wanna pay more money for this thing.

https://www.target.com/p/scotch-2oz-removable-mounting-putty/-/A-13356391?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&fndsrc=tgtao&DFA=71700000012807845&CPNG=PLA_Electronics%2BShopping_Local&adgroup=SC_Electronics&LID=700000001170770pgs&LNM=PRODUCT_GROUP&network=g&device=m&location=9032751&targetid=pla-774721017118&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1246978&ds_rl=1248099&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qD_BRDiARIsANjZ2LDJAsPTjA5ofTFOFunkn0gDqZ2GvgRhIuZVEXMg1WEPOi1fIPQgvzYaAgolEALw_wcB

Screenshot_2020-12-27-11-55-582.1609106910.png

 
Seems that might help but two issues I see with it. First, I wouldn't want the stuff up inside the threads of the scope body and second, if it is removable then it cannot be rigid. What I describe above is extremely solid once tightened (functions like a factory locking ring) and can be removed with no possibility of any "stuff" remaining inside the housing. Admittedly what I described above is a once and done fitting and if your eyes change you would have to make another one but it is solid and clean when placed. Worth it to me, maybe not to others.
 
 

Edit;

Lots of ways to do this I have found that a piece of nylon with an o-ring werqs quite well at keeping the ocular from moving around. The reticle does move in relation to the target on these scopes so it is a problem. A hard stop against a piece of nylon or other hard ring requires a bit of precision to get the focus just right. Adding an o-ring to the equation allows one to tighten or loosen things a bit and still have a secure enough ocular to keep things where they belong and in focus.

I have replaced the three scopes that have this defect and will not be purchasing the brands again cuz they don't deserve my patronage. My UTG, Hawke and Falcon scopes are all like this and require the nylon and o-ring to fix it.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/groups-moving-around-maybe-your-scope-is-the-problem/?referrer=1
 
I had a Aztec scope that had a fast focus eye piece. With it secure in a rest the cross hairs would move if any pressure was put on the eye piece. Thats the only scope I have owned without a lock ring. I have always wondered why manufactures seem to build these like this. How often does an eye piece need to be readjusted? Question are some makes threads tight enough that there is no play in the threads? I returned mine and got a replacement but never opened that box.
 


Edit;

Lots of ways to do this I have found that a piece of nylon with an o-ring werqs quite well at keeping the ocular from moving around. The reticle does move in relation to the target on these scopes so it is a problem. A hard stop against a piece of nylon or other hard ring requires a bit of precision to get the focus just right. Adding an o-ring to the equation allows one to tighten or loosen things a bit and still have a secure enough ocular to keep things where they belong and in focus.

I have replaced the three scopes that have this defect and will not be purchasing the brands again cuz they don't deserve my patronage. My UTG, Hawke and Falcon scopes are all like this and require the nylon and o-ring to fix it.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/groups-moving-around-maybe-your-scope-is-the-problem/?referrer=1

You're right in that it is a bit time consuming. But once it's there, it's there solidly unless you want to move it. Or when the eyes change again. The ability of the o-ring to allow adjustment relates directly to its relative weakness (IMO) in comparison to the nylon ring for this application-it isn't as rigid. I prefer scopes with locking rings on the eyepiece for this exact reason. This nylon ring locks as well as a screw locking ring once fitted. And there is a pretty good range on most scopes that looks "in focus" so the fitting isn't as exacting as one might assume. As I stated above, it probably took a half hour to sand the ring to fit once I sat down with the paper and started to work. I started with 150 grit paper today and I'd start more coarse if hand sanding again. If one gets lucky with the width needed and the width they sell it might take just a few minutes. I like the result well enough that I plan to make a fixture to sand them down faster so I can have a few others ready for final fitting as needed. I ordered several of the rings in each thickness-1/2" and 3/8" but the 1/2" are too wide for my needed adjustment. I can't recall if they had any in 1/4" but that might work well for many people. I believe I saw these in diameters from 1" to well over 2" (all defined by outside diameter as far as I can tell) with varying cross section "thicknesses" so do the math for needed size). Certainly not for everyone but I really dislike the movement when the eyepiece on several of my scopes are almost fully out. I have one that only has about a half turn more adjustment so my needed focus is turned out a lot on many scopes. This won't extend the focal range but it can at least make it solid to the end of the adjustment range. 
 
I had a Aztec scope that had a fast focus eye piece. With it secure in a rest the cross hairs would move if any pressure was put on the eye piece. Thats the only scope I have owned without a lock ring. I have always wondered why manufactures seem to build these like this. How often does an eye piece need to be readjusted? Question are some makes threads tight enough that there is no play in the threads? I returned mine and got a replacement but never opened that box.

Yes to the question. I have quite a few that have no movement even when out enough for me to focus. And that is without a locking ring. Others can get a bit loose. This fitted nylon ring will solve the problem but as you note it shouldn't be needed. If you have a scope that you like in all other respects, try it. It works.