Few day later built another "Retrofit" using a couple year old WAR valve. These were being made a few years ago being sold by Wicked Air Rifles. Some were small transfer port valve to be drop in's for Maruaders as well as a BIG transfer port valve used in the WAR Flex & WarP guns they manufactured.
* This TEXT a Copy/Paste from the GTA forum thread, Pictures a direct upload to keep here forever.
This time I've gotten serious about building a balanced valve and this one for POWER ! Starting out with a basic WAR valve that we're all familiar with, took it apart and found the largest "Seat set" I had which turned out to be a .280" throat with .250" transfer. The seat was previously modified to to have 10* sealing surfaces and lapped very flay against PEEK poppet heads. Had been using like this for a few years now without leakage issues. As the NEW balanced design poppet head was fabricated it to has a 10* sealing surface and gets lapped in. ( hope it seals at the greatly reduced seat pressure ? )
* Seat seals on a .332" diameter and chamber end is .250" which is pretty aggressive ^ should open and flow like crazy ! ... if it seals ?
The misc pictures show the parts well, balance chamber is Aluminum with a precision reamed bore. Poppet spring a stiff short one that just goes coil bound at max lift giving me minimal chamber volume and increased seat pressure
Poppet head again is PEEK using the very small 1mm x 4mm o-ring/s ( Did with a single ring at first, then added a second for redundancy having little effect on felt drag. )
Also shown is the location of the stem bleed hole relative to transfer port. The assembled stack of parts that make the assembly become clearer and may help those better understand the mechanics of how the Simplified balance valve works.
This configuration is ON THE EDGE of Ratios being at a 57/43 and will have a cracking / opening force just 43% of a non balanced poppet which equates too an @ 56% reduction
These pictures should help in understanding the air path and the parts that cause the to poppet quickly close, while having less initial area so it cracks open far easier.
Scott S
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* Note, We're regulated at @ 1900 psi and hammer is in free flight via an SSG devise.
Day or so later ...
Installed the valve into the WarP carbine, air up and no seat leakage ... Yea !!!
Staying with a super light MDS hammer ... WOOF !! full power shot sailing a H&N 21 grain barracuda to 1040 fps. And a lot of excess air behind it to !! having massive over dwell happening. ( stroke has been at .800" ) using the JSAR SS2 valve.
So started de-stroking hammer until at just 1/4" ( .250" ) of stroke was still over dwelling. Ok pulled the SSG spring set and put in a much lighter spring being also shorter, tested much better and when at the 1/4" hammer stroke mid 800's. Ok so we start increasing the hammer stroke and just 1/10th of an inch more stroke were back at 1000 fps ! That being a total hammer stroke of just .350"
This honestly a pinky only required gun to cock now. You can full open the breech & load a pellet and actions still not cocked.
Cocking the action only takes a light single finger tug for @ .350" and it's ready to fire. Just crazy easy on all accounts while making massive power.( .22 cal at 48 ft lbs ! )
With a HIGHER regulator set point and an increase in hammer strike THERE'S MORE POWER to be made & easily so.
A Huge success !
Scott S
I'm just gonna live vicariously through you and sell my gun! Lol
