Filming slow motion with Casio Exilm and need some help

Have you tried shooting a video at regular speed, 1080p and seeing if it is still blurry? Slow mo is lower pixel resolution, so what you see on your viewfinder may not be representative of what's being recorded.

If your reticle is jumping relative to the video frame, that means your camera is not rigid relative to the scope, which would suggest poor mounting. What adapter do you use?

In any event, not sure how it might be ruining your shots, are you saying that the zero shifts between shots?

I shoot an FX Royale 500. I feel very slight movement on the shot but I can see it in the video slightly. I'm not sure how to get that out. During the time you're filming, are the cross hairs in focus and your target is blurry or is the cross hairs blurry and the target is clear? If you notice some of the videos posted on YT they are the same way, plus you can see the recoil during the shot. When I press the shutter button down, I continue in the downward motion and start the video and does not get the cross hair out of focus. If you press it down and stop and not continue, they will probably not be in focus during the filming. I have also used a white index card in front of the scope, not blocking it, but it will give some defused lighting and the camera will give me a better focus on the cross hairs. I start the video well in advance and just edit out the front part.

Don't shoot over 240fps. The higher your frame rate, the worst the video image will be.

Also what type of camera mount are you using?

Gregg and I must have been typing at the same time. I also agree with what he is saying.

I presume you have adjusted the parallax correction on your scope for the range you are shooting (and the ocular) to get the target and cross hairs both focused in the same plane.
Rifle movement should not affect the picture quality too much.
If all is adjusted this is something like you should get from the Casio at 250 fps. This was taken at that speed with a Casio EX-FH100 three years ago. Hope it shows as it is old. Shot at 51 yards range with an FX Elite with Smooth Twist Barrel, JSB 25.4 gr King pellets in slight L to R wind ..

Probably best viewed full screen by clicking the bottom right corner of the frame.

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v392/Kyogle/FX25STElite3JSBKings51ydspigsilhouetteJan2012wmvforEmail_zpsacc2791c.mp4

Kind regards, Harry.

The Orion mount which is the same as the Seben, may be part of your shaking problem. I was very disappointed in the Seben for the same reason you mentioned. It actually seemed to work better with my DSLR than my Casio camera. After switching to the Eagle Vision, most of those problems went away. Most editing software has a feature where you can adjust the speed up or down. So, if you are getting good results at 30fps in Hi Def, you can slow it down in your editing software.

Jim, I should have mentioned that the video above was taken with a Seben. It has not, I think, detracted from the image of the pellet flight. The poster's image problem seems to be a focus problem? ?... Kind regards, Harry.

I read a post by Ted on the focus issue a week or so ago (sorry,can't remember where on here it was), But he suggests focusing the cam on the reticle while pointing the scope at a blank field, such as clear sky, etc. The cam will then have both the reticle and target in focus even if you change zoom, if I am understanding it right. 

The first thing to do is rule out the camera. I use a Casio EX800 and it seems to have good days and bad days based on my magnification. Most of the problems have to do with the settings. If you have 16:9 chosen for your image size, it is recording for wide screen viewing and can produce the black lines on top and bottom. This will also happen if you use the 480 or 1000 fps settings as the image size the camera can record to is much smaller. To remove the black bars, make sure the image size is set to VGA and as stated earlier that the speed is 240. (On a special note with speed, I've tested it at 480 and 1000 fps and at 30 yards it is very difficult to tell the difference from 240, aside from grain, as you just don't see the pellet long enough before impact. I've tried it at 50 yards as well without seeing much of a difference and hope to test it at 75 and 100 yards where I would expect to see the greatest differences but until I test mine out, I really won't know for sure).

In terms of focusing on the reticle, check your autofocus area settings and see if you have them set to intelligent, spot, multi or tracking. Spot focus will quickly locate the crosshairs when positioned in the middle of the viewfinder while the other settings may require you to slightly depress the shutter and let the camera decide where the focus points are. Also, don't confuse autofocus area with continuous autofocus. Turn off continuous autofocus as any movement with the image will cause the camera to try and find a new focus point and then focus on it. Other settings to make sure you have adjusted include ISO (which is how sensitive the camera is to light), program mode (P, A, S, M, etc.), image quality, and anti shake to name a few. You'll have to play around with these settings to see what your camera likes best. Lastly, make sure you disable digital zoom as this uses an algorithm to enlarge the image and will cause distortion. Instead, always use the optical zoom as that limits everything to the camera's lens, so what it see should be what you get.

Lastly, make sure there isn't a problem with your scope. I'm currently having an issue with one of mine where based on magnification I can get a slightly blurred image to a very blurred image the higher I go even though when I look through the viewfinder it looks crystal clear. I can adjust some of this by doing manual focusing instead of autofocusing, but I can't make it as clear as I want. Remember that with the camera mount setup, the camera is using the scope's image as it sees it (in other words, not as your brain would filling in certain gaps), it is not using the scope as the camera's lens.

What I have been doing is setting the focus manually on the reticle and then setting this in the memory so it is automatic when I turn the camera on. I do the same for the camera zoom as this needs to be coordinated with the focus. If you change the zoom the lens repositions relative to the scope ocular lens and the focus will need to be adjusted. Use the memory feature for all applicable settings and getting on target, adjusting parallax, camera on and cocking gun will facilitate a little quicker shot.

"huntjunky"What I have been doing is setting the focus manually on the reticle and then setting this in the memory so it is automatic when I turn the camera on. I do the same for the camera zoom as this needs to be coordinated with the focus. If you change the zoom the lens repositions relative to the scope ocular lens and the focus will need to be adjusted. Use the memory feature for all applicable settings and getting on target, adjusting parallax, camera on and cocking gun will facilitate a little quicker shot.

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Wow. Do you have a Casio? I've been trying to figure out how to do this with my Casio Exilim 800 and 1100 (setting focus in memory bit)/

OK, figured i would give this thread a bump because i've been playing around with my Casio Exilm-100 and was trying to set it up for the best shots. I already now not to shoot over 240 FPS, but i'm looking for more peoples set up. I don't have a P mode, just A, S, M don't know how to manually focus. I do have a HDR which can changes the display and will still shoot videos in this mode. I also have a BS mode which seems to put a black boarder around the entire picture. So if you could post your set up of your scope cam if would give me a good starting point.

Thanks.