Feinwerkbau 300S

crowski

Member
Dec 14, 2020
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On, Canada
Talk about being in the right place at the right time. 2
months ago, I was talking to a guy about garbage and he tells me his buddy found an air rifle in the garbage. Antenna’s went up. Every time I ran into him I reminded him. Today I asked and this is what he pulls out. 
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 I am enjoying this, had to buy, my first older rifle with a diopter. 
E32D38FF-F055-48DF-9E0E-267E393F2AA6.1631830051.jpeg
 I cocked it, not able to close lever.

Is there a release?
Where can I get a new piston seal?
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What age would this be?

Crow
 
Check your serial number against these;

mod.300S

FWB told Matt Walters circa 340,000 of the model 300/300S were made.

FWB 300S - from 100000
FWB 300S - 102357 - 7/72
FWB 300S - 104952 - 9/72
FWB 300S - 1112XX - 1/73
FWB 300 - 118158 - 05/73
FWB 300S - 120035 - 5/73
FWB 300S - 121415-6 / 73
FWB 300S - 122869 - 7/73
FWB 300S - 123222 - 7/73
FWB 300S - 126356 - 9/73
FWB 300S - 128486 - 10/73
FWB 300S - 133227 - 12/73
FWB 300S - 135130 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 135366 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 136047 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 136499 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 137242 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 139676 - 2/74
FWB 300S - 139728 - 2/74
FWB 300S - 146700 - 5/74
FWB 300S - 1487xx - 6/74
FWB 300S - 156834 - 1/74
FWB 300S - 160953- 12/74
FWB 300S - 164454 - 2/75
FWB 300S - 169334 - 4/75
FWB 300S - 174026 - 8/75
FWB 300S - 178331 - 10/75
FWB 300S - 185763 - 1/76
FWB 300S - 192952- 5/76 (short dovetail plate)
FWB 300S - 197619- 8/76 (long dovetail plate)
FWB 300S - 198145 - 8/76
FWB 300S - 202785 - 9/76
FWB 300S - 210105 - 12/76
FWB 300S - 215428 - 3/77
FWB 300S - 226975 - 8/77
FWB 300S - 230303 - 10/77
FWB 300S - 237542 - 1/78
FWB 300S - 239346 - 2/78
FWB 300S - 244585 - 5/78
FWB 300S - 249242 - 7/78
FWB 300S - 251939 - 8/78
FWB 300S - 2533XX - 9/78
FWB 300S - 254377 - 10/78
FWB 300S - 255903 - 10/78
FWB 300S - 256135 - 10/78
FWB 300S - 257144 - 10/78
FWB 300S - 262092-12 / 78 (Universal)
FWB 300S - 2645XX - 1/79
FWB 300S - 270215 - x/79
FWB 300S - 274206 - 7/79
FWB 300S - 274882-7 / 79 (Universal)
FWB 300S - 277703 - 10/79
FWB 300S - 279099 - 10/79
FWB 300S - 281368 - 1/80
FWB 300S - 281919 - 1/80
FWB 300S - 296566 - 9/80
FWB 300S - 306450 - 1/81
FWB 300S - 312052-5 / 82
FWB 300S - 312253 - 4/81
FWB 300S - 313567 - x/82
FWB 300S - 316804 - 10/81
FWB 300S - 3263XX - 4/82
FWB 300S - 328579 - 5/82
FWB 300S - 331129 - 8/82
FWB 300S - 334063 - 11/82
FWB 300S - 3416XX - 4/83
FWB 300S - 348497 - 3/84
FWB 300S - 349046 - 3/84
FWB 300S - 352238 - 10/84
FWB 300S - 354537 - 1/85
FWB 300S - 357323 - 6/85
FWB 300S - 361366 - x/86
FWB 300S - 361460 - X/86
FWB 300S - 362953-9 / 86
FWB 300S - 363907 - 2/87
FWB 300S - 364191 - 3/87
FWB 300S - 368 165 - x/88
FWB 300S - 3696XX - 9/89
FWB 300S - 370098 - 01/90
FWB 300S - 370598 - 4/90
FWB 300S - 373921 - 6/92
FWB 300S - 377894 - 1998
 
Wow! A Tyrolean stock even. As far as releasing the cocking lever the first thing to check might be to verify that the anti- bear trap “ratchet” has cleared so that the catch can swivel and head the other direction. You’d need to take the stock off to do that.

Air Rifle Headquarters should have seals. For the piston, it’s simply a bumper. The air seal is actually via a metal piston ring.

 
I did not even see that you could not fire it. Make sure the cocking arm is all the way back and that entire barrel/action has moved forward. Don't force it but the cocking arm must be pulled back enough to move the entire action forward a bit. Once that happens it hopefully will fire. A spring/seal change on these guns are NOT easy at all!!! There are no safety's or release levers on any of the FWB 10M spring guns.
 
I’m overwhelmed. Thanks DualMagMike for dating. It’s mid 77 as well. ‘Small world, wouldn’t want to paint it”. 
I’ve pulled it back to max. cocking. Doesn’t wanna go back.
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 The dark bar is caught on lighter metal.
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 I would like to get the pressure off the spring and I am going to take DualMagMike’s advice, and put it away till I can get someone qualified to repair it. 
Ironically thanks to a post yesterday about HW97 Vortex kits, they sounded so good, I couldn’t resist as I drove past AGS I went and bought one, That’s when I bumped into Buddy. Crow 
 
Check that little piece in front of the ratchet bar there. Its a pawl with a tooth on it, and will prevent the lever from closing until its all the way back to "set" that pawl. I've seen those ratchet bars and the pawl break. At that position the pawl should not have tension on it. If it does, pull back on the lever and try flipping it forward with a screwdriver while you ease the lever closed. 

Theres also a button that has to be pressed by the cocking arm at the rear of the action to cock it. If the spring is broken and wadding up inside, it won't allow the lever to come all the way back, and if it doesnt come ALL THE WAY back, you can't close the lever back. So you'd again have to fiddle with the pawl and ratchet beartrap deal. 

I'm going by memory as its been a while since I had one apart. But I have one here I can look at it if you need help and want to tackle it yourself. You can call me or whatever we need to do. Shoot me a PM if I can help. 
 
I did not even see that you could not fire it. Make sure the cocking arm is all the way back and that entire barrel/action has moved forward. Don't force it but the cocking arm must be pulled back enough to move the entire action forward a bit. Once that happens it hopefully will fire. A spring/seal change on these guns are NOT easy at all!!! There are no safety's or release levers on any of the FWB 10M spring guns.

If you get it uncocked and closed, it's actually relatively easy to do a rebuild on these. Now tearing into the trigger stuff is a different matter. But a simple spring and seal change is not complicated. You can handle it. 
 
WOW what a find! That's amazing...

The piston seal in those guns is a steel piston ring. It seldom really needs replacing (though that's often done anyhow when one is rebuilt). The perishable parts are typically the resilient bumper on the front of the piston, conical breech seal, and the springs.

Another random note: your gun has the earlier style diopter sight. To remove it, unscrew its clamping knob all the way out, and then slide the sight to the rear. The knob's shaft sits in a recess across the top of the receiver, and the end of the shaft will scratch things up if it doesn't clear everything. (Later examples had a different quick-release design to improve this.)
 
OK. Got time today to look at things. I have a side lever Pro Lam which I looked at, kind of same mechanism. I’m a big pussy, didn’t push lever back hard enough.
If you look at my second last pic. “overwhelmed” the lighter metal chamber slides, I think the grease is old and hard with debris, and causing the tightness. 
I put a Hades in it and it did not push round out. I felt a breeze on face. I emptied the barrel.

When I cock this gun there’s hardly any resistance.

Any suggestions?

Crow
 
I put a Hades in it and it did not push round out. I felt a breeze on face. I emptied the barrel.

When I cock this gun there’s hardly any resistance.

Any suggestions?

Crow

Does the gun have a breech seal in place? There should be a white, blue, or green resilient piece in the front of the cylinder like this.

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"Hardly any resistance" is about right for a 300S, LOL! The internal design is very efficient, so massive springs are not needed to get target-rifle velocity. You can literally cock one with your little finger.
 
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The white material is the ancient OEM seal; newer ones are blue or green in color. Very likely the gun has not been looked at in many years.

The FWB's are almost unique in having a resilient bumper on the front of the piston, this provides important cushioning (unlike most springers, there's little braking effect from the gun's near zero-length transfer port). It's made from the same stuff as the breech seal, and almost certainly has also failed. The gun must be dismantled to replace that. 

FWB's are massively over-engineered - damage is unlikely, but definitely don't cock it again until someone has been through it.