Expected Pro Sport Power

"willy"My tx 200 carbine shooting a 14.5 cp at 730-740 fps.

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OK, thanks. I'm significantly under that. I'd been getting an average of 663 fps. I just swapped in a new piston seal by Vortek and it went down to 620. OEM seals have been on back order for a month. I've already replaced the breach orings.

I'm thinking about replacing the cylinder next.

"Butch"If your just wanting to stick with full power like me then get a new piston seal from ARH. I have used OEM, Vortek, the aussy seal and the ARH. the ARH seal has been the best. I had bad luck with the Vortek seals being inconsistent and the ARH seals I have used in my TX have been very good.

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Thanks Butch. I just ordered a couple of their Apex seals to give them a try.

"tiger1"I previously owned a ProSport .22 cal and a TX200 Carbine both were sold on the Yellow Classified. According to my notes the ProSport was 660 FPS average and the TX Carbine 685 average both with JSB 14.3 pellets.

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Thanks Tiger1. That's reassuring. Lets me know there's most likely nothing wrong with mine then and that I'm chasing my tail trying to get anything more out of it, without a different spring and/or adding some power washers. I put in the Tinbum rear guide and top hat.

So I just dropped in an ARH Apex piston seal, shot 100 rounds and getting an average of 70 FPS less than what my old dinged up OEM seal is doing.

I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the way the seal is manufactured. The OEM seal looks like it's cast and has a smooth surface. The ARH and others look like they're turned on a lathe and have a ribbed surface.

I read somewhere that when standing the piston cylinder on end with the piston installed and extending out, it should not fall into the cylinder under its own weight.

I looked on YT on sizing a seal and didn't find anything. How are you doing it?

Actually, the old OEM seal takes more force to push in than the ARH and Vortek seals and it's the best performer.

"Butch"I put the seal on the piston and chuck the stem of the piston in my drill and slowly turn it on some 400 grit sand paper. Test often because you can not add it back on after taking it off.

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I'm kinda doing the same thing with the ARH seal. Except I'm using 1500 grit and just trying to knock down the ribs at very top of the seal edge where it breaks over into a 45* angle toward the face of the seal, to make that edge butter smooth, without compromising that crisp angle. As that's the sealing edge of the seal with the cylinder wall isn't it?