I got a good size Coon last night and was wondering if anyone could give advice on how to preserve and or tan the hide. Only reason for "Easy" is due to time constrains. If I can preserve it now and work it later it would be ideal. Thanks.
Easy Hide Preservation?
- Thread starter intenseaty22
- Start date
Christian check with a taxidermist on the price- in the PNW is about $150.00 for tanning & (skinning - fleshing is extra) . Maybe have the skull done in euro style ! I had a racoon hide years ago but the wife wouldn't let it in the house, I had it on the garage wall but started smelling so thru it away it had the feet attached also . Easier to let a pro do it & check with the wife if it can even make it in the house LOL Best of luck Darell
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Video or photo of the coon else it didn't happen.....
Try to keep up Haj....
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/thinking-about-scheduling-a-date-with-a-fatty/
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Thanks for tips. Will look at all options. I do have a freezer that the wife doesn’t go into, she’s afraid what she will find there 
She knows I keep my game meats in it. Mostly squirrel or rabbit.
I also have a workshop that even I don’t go in...cause I can’t, it’s FOS and I don’t have the time to clean/fix up. But I can find it a little space in there.
She knows I keep my game meats in it. Mostly squirrel or rabbit. I also have a workshop that even I don’t go in...cause I can’t, it’s FOS and I don’t have the time to clean/fix up. But I can find it a little space in there.
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Sorry Christian forgot to add CONGRATS on the panda bandit have two hitting my backyard just waiting for the chance too
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If you want it "tanned" and soft like leather then you best send it out to a pro. If you just want the hide then it is easily cured. I keep hides for my fly tying and this is what I do...
Flesh the hide well - there should be no fat left on it and the membrane removed so that you are down to the skin itself. A firm blade with a fine polished but BLUNT edge is what you want (I use a draw knife with the sharp edge removed) and you need a firm surface (like a 2x6) to work on. I use a piece of 10 inch plastic road culvert mounted in my bench vice. Don't use a sharp knife because you will end up cutting the hair roots and they will fall out.
Before you stretch the hide you need to comb the fur so that it is lying naturally on the skin and when tacking the hide out you want to be careful not to ruffle the fur because if it is sticking up every which way you will never be able to comb is straight once the skin is dry. A metal toothed dog comb is ideal for this and the fur should be dry.
Tack the hide (fur side down) to a piece of OSB or plywood. Start with one nail at the base of the tail and smoothly (to prevent mussing the fur) stretch the hide out and secure with a nail through the nose. Starting at the head, systematically and symmetrically stretch the hide out left and right and add nails while watching that you don't disturb the centerline of the skin by pulling it too far in one direction.
Curing the hide. You can cure the skin as is or you can use salt but I much prefer using Mule Team Borax (or the equivalent - it's' an antibacterial laundry soap powder you can get at the grocery store) on the skin and let it dry in a cool dry location (away from pets). Usually takes two weeks for a coon hide because the skin is quite thick.
Clean the fur. Once the skin is thoroughly dry and hard you can remove it from the stretching board for the final preparation. If you used Borax shake the powder off the skin and inspect it for greasy areas. Greasy spots can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol, naptha or soap. Likely there will be greasy areas along the edges of the skin and it is easiest to just trim this off with a short bladed utility knife or a curved linoleum knife (take care as the skin is tough to cut but can suddenly slice easily - don't use a regular knife as it is too difficult/dangerous to control). I wash my hides with dog shampoo or dish soap to get any dirt, grease or dried blood out of the fur and then give it a good rinse with the garden hose. It's best to work quickly to minimize softening the skin. Squeegee the water out of the fur, blot it well with a towel, give it a quick combing and hang to dry. Once dry a good combing and brushing will fluff up the fur. For my fly tying materials I will sometimes "dust" and work a bit of the borax into the fur to keep it fresh.
It takes a bit of time and effort to do but in the end you have a nice fur to display or to use.
Hope this helps!
Hank
Flesh the hide well - there should be no fat left on it and the membrane removed so that you are down to the skin itself. A firm blade with a fine polished but BLUNT edge is what you want (I use a draw knife with the sharp edge removed) and you need a firm surface (like a 2x6) to work on. I use a piece of 10 inch plastic road culvert mounted in my bench vice. Don't use a sharp knife because you will end up cutting the hair roots and they will fall out.
Before you stretch the hide you need to comb the fur so that it is lying naturally on the skin and when tacking the hide out you want to be careful not to ruffle the fur because if it is sticking up every which way you will never be able to comb is straight once the skin is dry. A metal toothed dog comb is ideal for this and the fur should be dry.
Tack the hide (fur side down) to a piece of OSB or plywood. Start with one nail at the base of the tail and smoothly (to prevent mussing the fur) stretch the hide out and secure with a nail through the nose. Starting at the head, systematically and symmetrically stretch the hide out left and right and add nails while watching that you don't disturb the centerline of the skin by pulling it too far in one direction.
Curing the hide. You can cure the skin as is or you can use salt but I much prefer using Mule Team Borax (or the equivalent - it's' an antibacterial laundry soap powder you can get at the grocery store) on the skin and let it dry in a cool dry location (away from pets). Usually takes two weeks for a coon hide because the skin is quite thick.
Clean the fur. Once the skin is thoroughly dry and hard you can remove it from the stretching board for the final preparation. If you used Borax shake the powder off the skin and inspect it for greasy areas. Greasy spots can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol, naptha or soap. Likely there will be greasy areas along the edges of the skin and it is easiest to just trim this off with a short bladed utility knife or a curved linoleum knife (take care as the skin is tough to cut but can suddenly slice easily - don't use a regular knife as it is too difficult/dangerous to control). I wash my hides with dog shampoo or dish soap to get any dirt, grease or dried blood out of the fur and then give it a good rinse with the garden hose. It's best to work quickly to minimize softening the skin. Squeegee the water out of the fur, blot it well with a towel, give it a quick combing and hang to dry. Once dry a good combing and brushing will fluff up the fur. For my fly tying materials I will sometimes "dust" and work a bit of the borax into the fur to keep it fresh.
It takes a bit of time and effort to do but in the end you have a nice fur to display or to use.
Hope this helps!
Hank
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Try "Tanit" by hunt smart products,,,,,,,also cabelas has a hide tanning solution can't remember the name its in an orange bottle been around a long time good luck JeffW
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