I cant source silicone lube locally, only petroleum based gun lubes. but I did have a thought, has anyone here ever tried graphite as pellet or barrel lube?
dry graphite as pellet lube
- Thread starter BoostCreep0908
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I haven’t used it as a pellet lube, but suspect that it is likely to foul the bore a tad too much. Plus it would be dreadfully dirty on fingers when handling the pellets. I hope this helps. Richardo.
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I have heard the factory's use it (graphite) to keep pellets from sticking together, I wash and use napier pro pellet lube myself and 100% silicone on the orings. I buy them on line
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Boost,
I would NOT use dry graphite as a pellet lube, I was told years ago that it is ABRASIVE!!!
I would go with Kry Tech made by Finish Line, or Lemon Pledge. One is a wax based bicycle chain lube, and the other a wax based furniture polish. Both are petroleum free, and will not diesel or detonate, used for PCPS as well as Springers.
I describe how to apply each of these on my Channel, Field Target Tech.
Tom Holland
I would NOT use dry graphite as a pellet lube, I was told years ago that it is ABRASIVE!!!
I would go with Kry Tech made by Finish Line, or Lemon Pledge. One is a wax based bicycle chain lube, and the other a wax based furniture polish. Both are petroleum free, and will not diesel or detonate, used for PCPS as well as Springers.
I describe how to apply each of these on my Channel, Field Target Tech.
Tom Holland
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Graphite is "ABRASIVE"? That's a good one. Wonder what grit it is, 100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000?
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Hi BC,,It would turn into a big mess that's for sure. I rinse my pellets in warm dish water,let dry ,lightly saturate a paper towell with some Ballistol,roll the pellets on it and put them back in their little tins.
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Tvanpool,
I was told by a locksmith not to use it on locks that stick, mainly because of it's abrasive properties over time would actually wear the brass within the lock away. The dry graphites that I do own have a fine grit to them. Much finer than some polishing compounds that I use. If I put a small amount on my thumb and forefinger, and rub them together, you can feel the grit. Yes, it's fine, but it's still an abrasive.
Certain metals, such as aluminum, zinc, and lead along with some alloys of steel, can create galvanic corrosion when exposed to dry graphite. This is one reason it is not used as a lubricant on aircraft. I won't take a chance with it.
Tom Holland
I was told by a locksmith not to use it on locks that stick, mainly because of it's abrasive properties over time would actually wear the brass within the lock away. The dry graphites that I do own have a fine grit to them. Much finer than some polishing compounds that I use. If I put a small amount on my thumb and forefinger, and rub them together, you can feel the grit. Yes, it's fine, but it's still an abrasive.
Certain metals, such as aluminum, zinc, and lead along with some alloys of steel, can create galvanic corrosion when exposed to dry graphite. This is one reason it is not used as a lubricant on aircraft. I won't take a chance with it.
Tom Holland
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I know this is one of those things that can be picked apart till the cows come home...and every one has their opinion. But, wouldn't a wax based lube cause an issue with a wax build up in the barrel? I believe (unlike some) in regular barrel cleaning. So if it did, not a big deal I guess. But the wax would build up I would think.
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Yeah I dunno. I wouldn't want any kind of dry powder on my pellets or in my guns.
I wash my pellets then give them a roll with a sponge slightly dampened with WD-40
Just enough to keep the pellets from oxidizing. Nothing more.
I wash my pellets then give them a roll with a sponge slightly dampened with WD-40
Just enough to keep the pellets from oxidizing. Nothing more.
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TiedRooster,
The wax doesn't build up, you don't get enough on the pellets to build up, so to speak. I would say 50% of competitive Field Target shooters that do lube their pellets use either Pledge, Kry Tech, Napier Pellet Lube, or Slick 50. All of these have been tried and tested in the competition world, and none of the aforementioned compounds will have any buildup in the barrel. Over an unlubed barrel, I've found that any of these compounds will keep the barrel very clean, and maintenance free for a longer period of time. Granted, every barrel is different, so a lube that works well for one barrel might not work well for another. Some barrels don't like or need any lube at all.
Yote, I have seen the Crosman pellet making equipment more than once, and they use some form of non petroleum based lube, that is a thin liquid when applied. I believe that it might have a percentage of transmission fluid in the compound.
Tom Holland
The wax doesn't build up, you don't get enough on the pellets to build up, so to speak. I would say 50% of competitive Field Target shooters that do lube their pellets use either Pledge, Kry Tech, Napier Pellet Lube, or Slick 50. All of these have been tried and tested in the competition world, and none of the aforementioned compounds will have any buildup in the barrel. Over an unlubed barrel, I've found that any of these compounds will keep the barrel very clean, and maintenance free for a longer period of time. Granted, every barrel is different, so a lube that works well for one barrel might not work well for another. Some barrels don't like or need any lube at all.
Yote, I have seen the Crosman pellet making equipment more than once, and they use some form of non petroleum based lube, that is a thin liquid when applied. I believe that it might have a percentage of transmission fluid in the compound.
Tom Holland
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A tried and proven lube by some shooters I know is Naptha mixed with Synthetic 2 Stroke oil @ a 20:1 ratio.
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I have tried , much dirt in barrel and fingers
And dont grouping well from LW barrel cal 25
And dont grouping well from LW barrel cal 25
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Why do you want to lube? I have seen one barrel ( rifle naturally) that went from 3/8" to right at 1/4" ctc at 50 yards - and not with me shooting-. To me this would be the only reason to lube. I have seen multiple rigs in which lubing made groups worse, and few that didnt care.
How's it shoot using only pure lead? Lap is needed if often a better idea.
Naturally if washing pellets first some lube might be nice to prevent oxidation, 1 - 2 drops per 500 count of FP10 seems nice then.
John
note, krytek/chain lube is a nightmare in a high powered career 707
How's it shoot using only pure lead? Lap is needed if often a better idea.
Naturally if washing pellets first some lube might be nice to prevent oxidation, 1 - 2 drops per 500 count of FP10 seems nice then.
John
note, krytek/chain lube is a nightmare in a high powered career 707
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Just curious,does it have to specifically be Lemon Pledge? ...or can a slightly lower cost version be used?
It's not that I'm incredibly cheap,I just wondered if I can use what I have on hand. Thanks!
( I had to move quick taking this pic before my Wife saw me handling the furniture polish...didn't want to give Her any "False hope"!)
Mike
It's not that I'm incredibly cheap,I just wondered if I can use what I have on hand. Thanks!
( I had to move quick taking this pic before my Wife saw me handling the furniture polish...didn't want to give Her any "False hope"!)
Mike
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Hornaday "One Shot" Case Lube. Not oily. Not powdery. Not messy. Aerosol spray makes it too easy.
Tried several of those other things long ago. They all still made my barrels foul. Oily fingers, and stink.
Yesterday I shot a 1.890" group (with slugs) at 200 yards with a .25 cal. that I DON'T clean the barrel of anymore.
With a barrel that's not full of machine marks (polished) there's nothing to clean.
Think about it. What are the products we intend to use "designed" for. Not necessarily their intended use.
Put lots of motor oil or chainsaw oil on your Metal Lathe ways and you will ruin it. Way oil is designed to do this.
Case Lube - Deliberately designed to lube a "soft" metal to swage it through a "hard" metal without damage.
That is what we are doing here. Swaging a soft metal through a hard metal pipe............. Got it????
Or you can try some Possum Sh_t. I heard there's nothing slicker than Possum Sh_t. Let us know how it works.
Tried several of those other things long ago. They all still made my barrels foul. Oily fingers, and stink.
Yesterday I shot a 1.890" group (with slugs) at 200 yards with a .25 cal. that I DON'T clean the barrel of anymore.
With a barrel that's not full of machine marks (polished) there's nothing to clean.
Think about it. What are the products we intend to use "designed" for. Not necessarily their intended use.
Put lots of motor oil or chainsaw oil on your Metal Lathe ways and you will ruin it. Way oil is designed to do this.
Case Lube - Deliberately designed to lube a "soft" metal to swage it through a "hard" metal without damage.
That is what we are doing here. Swaging a soft metal through a hard metal pipe............. Got it????
Or you can try some Possum Sh_t. I heard there's nothing slicker than Possum Sh_t. Let us know how it works.
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Mscott,,
I'm not sure, but if it is waxed based, and used in moderation, it should work. Do not spray it directly onto the pellets, spray it on paper towels, then roll the pellets around on it. I demonstrate that in my video.
Tom Holland
I'm not sure, but if it is waxed based, and used in moderation, it should work. Do not spray it directly onto the pellets, spray it on paper towels, then roll the pellets around on it. I demonstrate that in my video.
Tom Holland
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Hornaday "One Shot" Case Lube. Not oily. Not powdery. Not messy. Aerosol spray makes it too easy.
Tried several of those other things long ago. They all still made my barrels foul. Oily fingers, and stink.
Yesterday I shot a 1.890" group (with slugs) at 200 yards with a .25 cal. that I DON'T clean the barrel of anymore.
With a barrel that's not full of machine marks (polished) there's nothing to clean.
Think about it. What are the products we intend to use "designed" for. Not necessarily their intended use.
Put lots of motor oil or chainsaw oil on your Metal Lathe ways and you will ruin it. Way oil is designed to do this.
Case Lube - Deliberately designed to lube a "soft" metal to swage it through a "hard" metal without damage.
That is what we are doing here. Swaging a soft metal through a hard metal pipe............. Got it????
Or you can try some Possum Sh_t. I heard there's nothing slicker than Possum Sh_t. Let us know how it works.
I think I'll also give possum poop a try. I have a direct connection with a local supplier...
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Keep us posted........you just might be onto something or ON SOMETHING
Didn't know you could tame a possum! Kool!
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