Do you use Blue Locktite on you Springer Scope Rings? How do you get them off?

Yes I use loctite on all screws on my springers. It shouldn't be a problem, just use good fitting allen keys. Be certain you have the PROPER METRIC or SAE tools to match the appropriate screws.

So I politely disagree with the gentleman above me. If you have QUALITY hardware and tools (screws and hex keys) he is absolutely right, you shouldn't have a problem removing them. 

However my experience is that, unfortunately, quality hardware is a lot rarer than you might expect and so stripping heads or twisting them straight off is sadly not uncommon. 

My best advice would be to use either a soldering iron or a micro-torch to apply heat in a relatively precise way, without toasting the scope. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GA80NJO/

^that is what I'd use. They're cheap and precise. Keep the flame moving on the surface, apply it gently and not too fast, and continuously test to see if the loctite has softened.

A couple things to keep in mind: 
1) Not that much heat is actually needed. The threadlocker will have softened by 200F (boiling point of water) and will really loosen up around 300F

2) You're trying to heat the threads, not the heads. Heat accordingly. 

3) Anodizing is the canary in the coal mine. At some temperature the dye that has been sunk into the ano's pores (people don't realize, anodizing is naturally "colorless" but highly porous, the color you see is actually a dye or pigment put into the pores of the ano and then sealed) will start to break down first fading then turning an actually quite pleasing bronze color. If you see this, you've gone too far. (this tends to happen around 400-450F relatively slowly, and accelerating with higher temp) 


I hope that helps. The thing to keep in mind is not to strip the head. Once you've done that, your options get much much worse quickly. I hope I'm wrong and you can just remove them, but if you start to feel the head on the screw go, you're in trouble as you've taken the metal past its fatigue point. There are hacks, like supergluing in the hex key end that'll give you a little more wiggle room, however keep in mind said hacks aren't compatible with heat so...... yeah. :/

Just use vibra Tite "vc3". Apply once and it's reusable. No heat needed.

Best way to remove screws that's been loctite is with heat. Trying to screw it off can strips the head. Apply heat then you should be able to remove it jo problem 

I don't use loctite on my scope mounts. If you do, you can usually remove them with a soldering iron to heat the screws but I'd rather keep that away from my scopes and guns.

so first off you haven't even tried to remove the screws is that right if so why not second off all screws and mount are at very low torque 2 or 3 foot pounds-24 to 36 inch pounds

and can blue Loctite be miss used oh yes it can, so to much is very bad if removal is in your future

I would never use a thread compound but if I had something that would not say put with small screws and needed to removal I would use purple Loctite or even plain old teflon tape

but 100 people are going to do 50 different things some will be right and some will be wrong

if you need to mount something that might be prone to vibration a flat washer under a lock washer will work just fine, oh i know there small washers might be hard to find but it better then glue

how many of you have top quality allen wrenches in inch and metric like Bondhus and Wiha

It seem that many have pricey guns, scopes, mounts but lack the right tools

these are just my opinions nothing more nothing less, how you do thing is none of my business

I'm about to get cussed out...But! After Years of using blue loctite on my scope hardware, I now use just a Touch of Ballistol applied via a cotton swab. It allows me to torque the fasteners down easily and evenly. I have had Zero problems with things falling off or coming loose unintentionally. After checking repeatedly for loose screws I had no issues.

Of course,Your results may vary...but just decided to share my experience.

Mike

Blue Loctite should not be a problem. It has a medium hold strength that should allow for removal without too much pain. Red Loctite on the other hand is high-strength and is a no-no. If you use blue Loctite and torque properly, you shouldn't have any problems.

And yes, I have used it often and I have never broken or stripped a bolt on any of the scope mounting hardware on any rifle.

PT

After you easily get the screws off(thinking positively, or the glass half full, lol), soak the threads in some goo gone or some type of adhesive remover, leave it on the threads overnight, and tomorrow a nylon brush and some wipes and you’ll have clean threads again.



Then go with the vibratite like others have suggested. 

On PCP scopes I only apply some form of thread lock compound only on the scope ring screws, as I’ve learned that PCP guns require maintenance and the scopes need to come out for those times, so no compound on the ring mount screws/bolts for me. 

On break barrels and my hard thumping centerfire guns, I use thread locking compound on all ring screws and ring mount screws/bolts.

Set the rifle in the sun for awhile and you should have no problem removing the screws. If you are in a hurry use your wife's hair blower to heat it up some. Just don't over do it. Keep the blower at least 6 to 12 inches away and you'll be fine. 

Locktite and others make a purple locking anaerobic for small screws 1/4" and smaller

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/when-and-why-to-use-purple-threadlocker/

I have been using loctite 242 for decades on motorcycles and the bolts have never been as easy to remove as without. Did you degrease the threads when you used the thread locker? 

There's no reason to use Loctite. I've shot springers for years without any problems. Rinds with an anti recoil screw would be helpful. I bought a gun from a man that used his gorilla strength to mount his scope. I had to cut the rings off with a Dremel.

I use BKL double strap rings exclusively on my springers without any thread locker. Torqued to spec, I’ve never had a screw loosen or had any sign of scope migration. Uj

Locktite and others make a purple locking anaerobic for small screws 1/4" and smaller

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/when-and-why-to-use-purple-threadlocker/

Click to expand...

EXACTLT right. 1/4 " and smaller should use purple Loctite and above 1/4" you use blue Loctite....