I just want to share with you a mistake I did on my wildcat. Since it has a huma reg in it, I have probably taken the tube apart 6-7 times when adjusting the reg. The last time I should screw the tube on, it got stuck when there was probably 3-5mm left before it was screwed all in. I thought to myself, it it just some dirt, and used force. When I screwed a couple of more turns it got even harder to screw. Then screwed the tube all the way out again, and saw that the first threads on the endcap was damaged. Also noticed there was small aluminium particels inside the tube and some threads did not look to good. Tried to remove it, and screw it back together again. Used a vise on the endcap to get a proper grip with both hands. Now it is stuck, with a few mm left. The point is, it is very fine threads both inside the tube, and on the endcap. Just a tiny ammount of particles can jam and ruin the threads if you force it.
Do not force the threads
- Thread starter tor47
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Sorry to hear that. Are the treads in the tube stripped or just the cap? I hope its just the cap that would lower repair cost. Thanks for sharing.
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Honestly I do not know, since it is so thigtly stuck that I probably has to take it to a workshop to get it apart with some help. If it is the first threads damaged it might be reparable with proper tool. But if I have to pay someone to do it, I might buy a hole new tube instead, with an integrated AMP reg instead. It might also be a safety consern if not all threads are in working order.
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I believe you have had a case of cross threading and we have all done it but when things are hard to thread when they should be easy you need to stop
in your case without seeing the damage but if it is a under pressure area you might need to replace both parts
well good luck
in your case without seeing the damage but if it is a under pressure area you might need to replace both parts
well good luck
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Thanks for sharing your experience. Hope it will be fixed soon. I always use lubricants on fine threads although I am not sure if it would have prevented the problem you have gone into. In the videos of Edgun, they recommend using anti-seize compounds on all threads.
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Perhaps someone with more experience can answer weather or not its a good idea for you try this idea but heres what I would try. Not saying to do this! Anyway I would break it lose with a pipe wrench after putting a decent amount of penetrating oil in it. Then throw the cap away. Find the correct tap for your air tubes thread pitch and carefully chase the threads. Your not drilling it out and rethreading your just repairing the damaged threads. It should feel slightly gritty but not super hard like creating new threading. Buy a new cap and replace after cleaning the tube super well to remove all oil and metal shavings. Worth a try if this is going to cost you hundreds of dollars. However I have never had your exact issue and this may be unsafe. Please check with an airgun machinist before attempting man its only my best guess. Good luck to you.
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Heat to tube outside the threads with a propane torch to expand the metal and let it release. You can put some tension on it while heating so you feel it release when it's hot enough. The damage is done to the threads but you can put anti seize on the threads and screw it back together. Push down and turn it backwards until you feel it click to find the thread start.
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I did not cross thread BTW. It all started fine, and it did not meet resistance before it was screwed about 80-90 persentage in. What probably has happened is that a tiny particle has got stuck between the threads inside the tube. So when I continued screwing more paricles have been scratced off the surface and the damage gotten worse. Even it will cost me some money, I might see it as a oportunity to get a new tube with the externally adjustable reg instead.
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well if you have aluminum particles that whens the steel tube is cutting new threads and that can't happen after it was threaded in correctly
once threading has started it can't jump threads on the way in and I few bits of anything would be cut through or pushed down out of the way
so if the tube has damaged the aluminum piece that received it, that is a problem and if the tube is stuck that is another problem
and with both pieces being possibly damaging each other, well that is an expensive problem
it doesn't matter what you call it or what has happen you have damage
once threading has started it can't jump threads on the way in and I few bits of anything would be cut through or pushed down out of the way
so if the tube has damaged the aluminum piece that received it, that is a problem and if the tube is stuck that is another problem
and with both pieces being possibly damaging each other, well that is an expensive problem
it doesn't matter what you call it or what has happen you have damage
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I learn from others mistake, so now others can learn from mine
I do have more than one gun, so I will not be without until I get e new tube. It is a .177, but I think I might go for a 300cc tube just for the extra air, if the dealer can get it. My moderator has small enough diameter but is quiet long, so it should still fit. The end of a 300cc tube should be roughly at the same lenght as the end of the moderator.
I do have more than one gun, so I will not be without until I get e new tube. It is a .177, but I think I might go for a 300cc tube just for the extra air, if the dealer can get it. My moderator has small enough diameter but is quiet long, so it should still fit. The end of a 300cc tube should be roughly at the same lenght as the end of the moderator.Upvote 0
Sometimes aluminum will gall without a lubricant such a never seize like mentioned above. No mater who screws it together it happens.
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