Daystate Mark 3 trigger microswitch

For safety of the users I would assume that is correct but I'm not sure. Have you tried sending Daystate a message? Maybe they have a spare one laying around or they can tell you the answer with certainty.

The switch should be marked on one side. NC for closed C for common and NO for open. Anyway it doesn't matter. Just wire new one the same as the old one.

what gun is that from? sorry im not familiar with daystate rifles is that a particular model or a mk3 of a model.

I have bought a non firing Mark3 and I think there is a problem with the trigger microswitch. Are these wired normally open or normally closed? The wires were soldered to the two outer pins which gives continuity until the trigger is pulled, is that correct? 

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So what makes you think there is a problem with the switch..? Did you test the switch for continuity with a meter and see if it opens/closes..? Reason I ask is you used the word 'think', its a straight forward troubleshoot for a switch, it either works or doesn't. A meter would also show you exactly how the switch is wired. you could also jump out the switch to see if you could dry fire and confirm it is only the switch not working...

The switch should be marked on one side. NC for closed C for common and NO for open. Anyway it doesn't matter. Just wire new one the same as the old one.

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Unless the switch is mis-wired and that is why it won't fire. As noted above, a meter should allow the switch to be tested but wouldn't verify correct wiring.

Well, ok I understand a little better now.

imo, this is a simple snap action 3 wire spdt switch that is either on/off or off/on,,, no/nc__1 power in terminal.

If it were mine,, would find the power wire with meter, and jump it to one of the other wires and see what happens, then jump it to the other and see what happens. This might show you the proper way to wire the switch... or if its not theswitch.



On a side note, would be interested to see if a simple constant power circuit is used in the nc position. As this would seem(depending on the complexity of circuit board design)to be a inefficient battery/power setup using power constantly in closed circuit loop and use a break in power to trigger the gun. Also might be more prone to problems.

But then again, I'm not familiar with electronic air rifles circuit boards at all, just have read advertisements stating 5000 shots between charges and holds a charge for months/years which I would not think is consistent with a simple nc circuit in this application... Would seem a lot more efficient and simple to use n/o and then trigger on close... Then otoh, British Leyland electronics comes to mind...lol

jmo

Your post helps a lot thanks As for British Leyland electronics  I see where you are going with that lol.

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You probably already understand exactly what I meant,, but just to clarify...

With all 3 trigger switch wires disconnected and exposed, find the 2 that have no voltage between them. The other wire then should be the power in to the switch and it should show voltage when measured between itself and either of the other 2 wires,, all with gun switched on.

I'd have the gun ready to shoot, cocked, etc, since more then likely could be sensors to prevent firing with a empty mag/not enough tank pressure/safety on, not cocked, etc, or something like that, preventing the solenoid from firing till it thinks all is ready with the gun... Maybe not, maybe it has no sensors to prevent firing and will fire no matter what other gun parameters are..? But never know what precautions they engineered into the circuit.

Then try jumping the power wire to an individual switch wire 1 at a time, then remove and jump to the other wire and you should be able to see what wire triggers the rifle, and if it triggers upon connection or disconnection.... Anyhow, thats what I'd do if I had no wiring diagram..

Do they publish a diagram of the circuit, or is it top secret and only Christopher Steele knows..?

jmo

very simply .... If the control board is good ? The trigger micro switch does nothing more than open or close the circuit of the TWO wires it uses.

if action fires upon TRIGGER RELEASE .. wire positions on switch are swapped ... change that and you good to go.

*Always one on the center post, jump the other wire to the other side post to correct.



Scott