Daystate LC-110 FAIL

I probably ran mine harder than most. Normally I would wait until I had one full tank left, then top off the other 3, right in a row... So when I ran it, once every other weekend, I ran it for about an hour straight...

For that type of compressor it wouldn't seem that usage of that level should overstress the unit. Could be just an oddity? Failures can certainly happen with the best of devices. Still, it seems I've read of a few other issues with the Daystate compressors. Harder and harder to tell where best to spend compressor dollars. Hope you get it working well.
 
Sorry to hear of your problems Mike. In all your researching have you determined if they make a rebuild kit, or if you have to buy the parts needed by the part number? I have the T-2 and while the only problems encountered so far have been ends on my fill hose leaking, you always get that sinking feeling when the compressor starts slowing down. Maybe if there was a rebuild kit on my shelf it would ward off the evil compressor breakdown spirits. Overall I only have good things to say about the T-2. As mentioned the only problem has been the pressed on fitting on the end of the hose started leaking. Replaced it with a new way over priced hose from one of our airgun suppliers. That started leaking within 30 days. Took the old original hose to the hydraulic shop and had them press a new end on. So far its working good. sylvan
 
A couple of parts kits on Nuvair.com

https://www.nuvair.com/mch6-100-hour-service-kit-jic.html

https://www.nuvair.com/mch-6-500-hour-service-kit.html

Parts I ordered for the valve repair on my T2 (MCH6)

1572104373_21051655895db468b5d29b58.41552219_Coltri Parts.JPG

 
Yup ... we put together kits that make sense. At 100 hours, the valves for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stages usually need replacement. And, since the 4th stage head is an integral part of the valve assembly, we include it as well. We also toss in the replacement seats for the blowdown valves and an inlet air filter. Since the Daystate doesn't include a third stage, you would have to get the parts by part number. 

Daystate made a big mistake in not buying enough repair parts so us Coltri distributors have to help their customers. Unfortunately, any warranty work is up to Daystate. I have helped a bunch of their customers with parts and advice. My number one piece of advice is don't run them to 4500 psi. While it will sort of do it, the stresses on the crank are a killer. Their version will not last as long as a MCH6. Plus, it is lacking air drying capability so you should add the filter tower to keep your air guns and tanks clean. While the separator does a fairly good job, it is only going to get about 95% of the oil, gunk and water. That other 5% is going right into your air system.

Hope that helped!



Ray Contreras - Owner - CompressorStuff.com


 
I wish Coltri would sell a 120V 15A compressor directly. From what I can tell they only have 240V or 120V 30A models, so it doesn't really fit the needs of most airgunners in the US where 240V is not easily available for consumer appliances except the dryer. We don't need the higher pumping rates, so why insist on the high power? That's where the Daystate variant fits in, but in their quest to reduce the price (which is important) they left out the drying tower, which is definitely a problem, or will be eventually if something isn't done to implement that functionality in the end user system.
 
America's Compressors (new name for Coltri America) brought in a few of those compressors and found them to be too problematic for our uses. They really should have a 3000 psi rating like our MCH4. We had them tested REALLY HARD and they just broke too easily. They have unbalanced stresses that wouldn't hold up for fire department or scuba use. So we let them be. They are designed for air gun use and that is just about it.

As for not hearing back from Coltri, were you trying to contact Italy or the US. Only a couple of people in Italy speak English and they are terrible at getting back to people. That is why Coltri Americas was initially set up ... to maintain enough stock to take care of distributors. Then, each of us distributors did the email returns. I must admit that I am terrible at phone but pretty good at email. I have a medical problem that makes talking tough but my fingers can do my talking for me.

As for a 115VAC compressor, we got one. However it is rated for 3000 psi only. Going higher would require a more powerful motor. BUT ... our best selling compressor is one that has the Honda gas engine on it. It is portable so you can take it with you just about anywhere. It comes standard with a SCUBA DIN or yoke connector with a shutoff valve and bleeder, 4 cylinders, an outlet filter tower with pmv and an hour meter on the gas engine. It isn't cheap at $2700. But it has the full warranty of Coltri (America's Compressor) and our distributors/dealers.

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at [email protected]



Ray Contreras - Owner - CompressorStuff.com


 
If the 3 stage LC-110 is only good for 3000 psi then the Yong Heng and all the other 2 stage compressors should not be used over 2000 psi.

I'm an engineer, but not a compressor engineer. The design information I have read about 4500 psi compressors says that 3 stages are sufficient. Four stages would be more efficient (and run a bit cooler), but three are adequate, if properly designed. Many commercial 4500 psi compressors are 3 stage designs. The Shoebox is a 3 stage setup as well, using a commodity compressor as the first stage.

My LC-110 runs fine up to 4500 psi where it automatically shuts off. It works on a standard 120V 15A outlet or a 3000 watt Honda generator. It didn't reach full pressure before my 2000 watt Honda generator tripped but that is not surprising as the Honda 2000 is only rated for 13 amps and the compressor requires 14.5 according to the motor label. I don't know of another compressor that can do this (the Shoebox isn't very portable due to the first stage compressor required to feed it). The Yong Hengs fail to run on a 3000 watt generator for some reason, perhaps the stacked stages cause the peak power to be excessive. Most of the better 4500 psi compressors require 240V which is decidedly inconvenient, especially for generator power. It would be great to have a continuous rated 5000 psi compressor, but their size, weight, power and cost make the LC-110 a good compromise for many.

I don't have enough hours on mine to comment on longevity. It is rated for 100 minutes continuous, but I don't need to run it much over 10 minutes for my tasks. My plan is to keep the runs brief to avoid higher temperatures, to change oil often and to use warmup and cooldown cycles to distribute lubrication and pump out moisture, and to run it every few weeks to lubricate and discourage corrosion. I have started using HPA for other tasks such as topping off tires. Using a 68 ci 4500 psi paintball bottle and tire filling adapter is much faster and more portable than dealing with long hoses or slow 12 volt electric compressors on 80 psi truck tires.

Availability of Coltri parts and service seems to be good. Airguns of Arizona was very responsive when I had a bad overpressure valve initially, and the many Coltri dealers seem to be helpful, though they are not too happy about the competition.

The failures we have seen primarily seem to be the valves cracking. I suspect some improper materials or processing on those parts rather than a fundamental design problem. These are very old designs, and to control costs perhaps the manufacturer is experimenting with new subcontractors or different manufacturing techniques.
 
So, if I'm reading this right - the Daystate LC110 (Coltri MCH-3)..

  • Usually needs a valve overhaul at/after 100hours of runtime
  • Isn't really built to handle 4500 PSI (and is more like a 3000psi scuba compressor)

.. or am I not processing this information correctly?


Yes you are. The higher the pressure, the more you need to do service. I would suggest doing a valve change a little earlier since you are pumping 4500 psi and my 100 hour kits are aimed at the scuba industry. And, changing oil at 15-20 hours instead of 25 would also be a great benefit as well.

Ray Contreras - Owner - www.CompressorStuff.com
 
Daystate and AOA concur with Ray with 15-20 hour recommended oil change intervals (after the initial 5 hour change) (or annually, whichever is sooner).

The LC-110 will top off a 45 minute / 66/72 cubic foot SCBA bottle from 3000 to 4500 psi more than 200 times in 100 hours of runtime. (23 minutes nominal plus warmup, cooldown, etc).

Just for fun I calculated the cost for me to drive twice to the filling place at 50 cents per mile, plus bridge toll each time, plus cost of the fill adds up to $50 per fill (not including my time), times 200 fills, total cost is $10k. So the compressor will be paid for five times over before it reaches the 100 hour overhaul. Interesting.
 
I don't have enough hours on mine to comment on longevity. It is rated for 100 minutes continuous, but I don't need to run it much over 10 minutes for my tasks. My plan is to keep the runs brief to avoid higher temperatures, to change oil often and to use warmup and cooldown cycles to distribute lubrication and pump out moisture, and to run it every few weeks to lubricate and discourage corrosion.

This is my current hypothesis and situation as well. ~5.15 HRS in, ~10 minutes per run, one oil change. I'm doing once a ~week run for a bit to expunge any moisture from the system. I still wish I knew why the oil came out green my first oil change but I suspect it's moisture reacting with the copper seals and surface based copper hydroxide.

I'm toying with the idea of once a week pumping into a full tank or dead head to at least let the compressor build pressure/heat/work instead of just "wet stacking".
 
I don't have enough hours on mine to comment on longevity. It is rated for 100 minutes continuous, but I don't need to run it much over 10 minutes for my tasks. My plan is to keep the runs brief to avoid higher temperatures, to change oil often and to use warmup and cooldown cycles to distribute lubrication and pump out moisture, and to run it every few weeks to lubricate and discourage corrosion.

This is my current hypothesis and situation as well. ~5.15 HRS in, ~10 minutes per run, one oil change. I'm doing once a ~week run for a bit to expunge any moisture from the system. I still wish I knew why the oil came out green my first oil change but I suspect it's moisture reacting with the copper seals and surface based copper hydroxide.

I'm toying with the idea of once a week pumping into a full tank or dead head to at least let the compressor build pressure/heat/work instead of just "wet stacking".

That is probably a good idea. I just crossed 11hrs this evening with mine. I also did a third oil change after topping my tank off. The oil that was in there came out like a thick flat grey/black with a hint of green 😬

I run dual Coltri moisture separators / filters on the output, and I'm about half way through the lifespan on the first filter. I cracked it open a bit ago, expecting to see signs of moisture, but it was bone dry thankfully. 

I thought about upgrading to something else, but I can't really beat the portability of this one. Especially when couple it with my Honda EU2200i generator - I could easily refill my Great White tank 25 times on a gallon of gasoline if I needed too. I'll just run and maintain it by the book, if something happens - I'll deal with it 🤷‍♂️