Daystate 110v air comp.

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Did you really mean 2020? Less than 3 months ago? Sad but should still be under warranty, I would think. Several on this forum have spoken highly of the compressor but there have also been notations of failures. Did you check all connections for leaks with soapy water? Often seems to solve compressor "problems". Hope you get it worked out and you will probably have responses from owners of that compressor.
 
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Wayne, you need to provide more information than you have. Did you purchase it new? What does "giving up the ghost" mean specifically?

My Daystate LC-110 has run flawlessly for a year and a half. No problems whatsoever. One or two posts by owners with issues out of the hundreds sold does not mean this is a problematic compressor. All mechanical products have some number that have issues. If I had a 3 month old Daystate that wasn't working properly, the first thing to do is contact the vendor. Members here are willing to share knowledge with you if you indicate what problem you're experiencing. So will vendors, particularly the primary Daystate dealer.
 
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thats a seriously great responds...but their have been more than should ..look thru the pages all up to 25..see for yourself.

Wayne, you need to provide more information than you have. Did you purchase it new? What does "giving up the ghost" mean specifically?

My Daystate LC-110 has run flawlessly for a year and a half. No problems whatsoever. One or two posts by owners with issues out of the hundreds sold does not mean this is a problematic compressor. All mechanical products have some number that have issues. If I had a 3 month old Daystate that wasn't working properly, the first thing to do is contact the vendor. Members here are willing to share knowledge with you if you indicate what problem you're experiencing. So will vendors, particularly the primary Daystate dealer.
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I'd suggest checking two things short of contacting supplier for warranty work. First, is the electrical circuit adequate? Second, remove some oil and filter it to see if it has metal particles in it. A new circuit breaker might be enough if no metal is in the oil. Noticeable metal in the oil would certainly not be good. Hope it is something simple.
 
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--- Disclaimer; hopefully this doesn't devolve into my Shoebox is better than your Yong Heng is better than my Alkin is better than my LC-110 ---

At times folks perceive purchase choices personally and respond in a manner that could be construed as "You have chosen poorly" or "It works fine for me so you did something wrong!" so please don't perceive such a response in the below as I own the LC-110 and I'm only sharing my experiences and lessons learned in hopes it helps others. Folks who own alternative compressors have not made an incorrect decision and I have no problems with inexpensive working compressors. The best compressor is one that works, the worst compressor is one that is failed.

--- Actual Content ---

I have not seen a metallic sheen in my oil but I have seen, after 5 hours, what appeared to be copper hydroxide. I have a thread on it but have not done oil analysis further.

What oil did you fill the compressor with after receiving it, I believe they ship oil free/drained?

I have a thread on the necessity of a cool-down cycle and some scanned manual add-ons regarding 3 min warm-up, pump, and cool down. I also have some FLIR images of the 3rd stage which runs hot and the difference between cool down cycle is huge.

How much oil did you add? The Coltri/Daystate manual is a joke and I've got a few responses pointing out manual inaccuracy. Did you fill with 330mL of oil ignoring the sight glass?

Did you remove the crank-case nut during the oil fill process?

Did you check the belt tension to ensure it's not over-tensioned?

I am sorry you've had a failure so soon. I have no investment in Daystate/LC-110 I'm just an average airgunner attempting to share experiences and help where applicable.
 
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The great oil challenge with Coltri/Daystate again, lol. The manual in multiple pages got the quantity wrong so I do 330mL measured out of a Pyrex beaker. I'm using CE 750, it's what shipped with mine. I recall mtnGhost's LC-110 biting the dust and I recall he recently moved to CE 750 from CE 150. Who knows...

Wayne, is 330mL still the standard for drain and refill?

Thanks sir for updating this thread.
 
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The book says 300ml but I put in that amount and it showed low on the dipstick so I added oil until it was full. My first compressor had a sight glass in the crankcase but the book did not show or say anything about it, my new book shows the sight glass and tells all about it but my new compressor does not have a sight glass!

Thank you. 

Wayne
 
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Interesting -- sounds like the great oil issue, lol. If they've removed the sight glass and the sight glass cut-out that sounds like 30mL of volumetric reduction hence 300mL.

I suspect the core issue is if you don't fill using ~300-350mL you over fill. If you over fill by obeying the sight glass you improperly splash lubricate. If you use CE 150 instead of CE 750 the issue is exacerbated because the viscosity is too light compared to CE 750... and like something about friction coefficients and molecular adhesion and surface tensioning, heh.

If you don't warm up, and keep it with-in duty cycle at pressure, and cool down, the issue is also exacerbated.

I figure 300-350mL on a level surface, trust the dip and stop just below the high mark on the dip, and one will ensure proper splash lubrication... but this is just extrapolated observation for root cause failure.

Opinion/Random thoughts -- If these compressors are oil-level and oil-viscosity sensitive (as it seems) perhaps also compressing on an unlevel surface results in improper splash lubrication.
 
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