"Custom" Air Charging Station?

I read the post below in the "General Airgunning" section about building a custom air gun carrier/caddy. It got me to thinking about a previous desire I had to build a "custom" project. Whenever I needed to charge my airguns/tanks I would have to gather the different components together along with hoses, filters, power cords, etc...then when completed, I would have to break it all down and stow it. It was both time consuming and frustrating to say the least. 
So.......I sat down to design and draw up plans for a "Custom" Air Charging Station...a wood cabinet to house and centralize all these various components and accessories.
Unfortunately, It evolved into a major project and I found that the final material cost and required labor was excessive, especially for a cabinet that might not have an "alternate use" should I decide in the future to pursue a different hobby (you never know). 
I was initially disappointed, but I researched other options and invoking the K.I.S.S. principle I decided that instead of building a wood cabinet/enclosure I would just settle for a basic, sturdy, adjustable shelving unit made of metal and generally found at most of the big box stores.
I took measurements on all my equipment and decided that a simple open shelf unit 36"W x 18"D x 72"H with 4 shelves would be ideal. I also opted to install optional casters so I could easily move the unit around and allow easy access to the components if needed.
A five shelf unit with the casters run me about $80 (with my 10% military discount). I was looking at about 3x that amount for my wood design plus the labor!
Pictures below show my complete setup. The oil-less compressor on the bottom shelf has wheels and can be easily rolled off the shelf and transported to another location for other air uses if necessary. The second shelf holds the rest of the components; a small refrigerated air dryer with attached Filter/Regulator assemblies, a Wilkerson desiccant dryer, a Shoebox Freedom 8 and a Joe B. Tiger Shark HP air tank.
The remaining upper two shelves I use for storing spare parts, shooting supplies, and misc airgun related items.
A side benefit of this "Open" wire shelf design is that it allows for easy cord, tubing and hose routing (no holes to cut). It also allows any additional items to be easily mounted/unmounted. I just recently added the Diablo filter and decided for now to just hang it off the shelf using a couple of cord hangers.













This is not a "Custom Built" unit, and I fully understand the enjoyment and pride associated with designing and building a project from the ground up, but this time a simple, relatively inexpensive and extremely mobile setup, has worked better for me and sure made for a more organized and controlled operation when recharging my tanks. In this case, the K.I.S.S. principle worked.
Sometimes the simpler, easier or least expensive path will give you the same or better results! That's probably the reason I liked Lawrence's simple Airgun/Equipment Caddy and the reason I decided to write and pass this on about my experience.

LarryK
 
"cj_86"Bleudg,

That is an amazing set up! I was thinking about purchasing a Shoebox soon and I was wondering why so many devices to remove moisture from air? I guess all I was thinking about was getting an in line dryer like the Diablo for example.



[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]Try to keep it basic. The amount of moisture in air can vary greatly and is dependent on many factors. I think those have been discussed many times on the forums. Those factors will determine what is needed to reduce that moisture to "acceptable" levels. A simple inline filter separator will remove some moisture, a refrigerated air dryer will remove some additional moisture. They accomplish this by lowering the Dew Point temperature. A refrigerated air dryer will lower the dew point temperature to around 34F. The addition of a desiccant filter will lower it down into the subzero range which should be acceptable "At a system pressure of 100-125#". Once you raise that pressure to 4500 #'s your dew point temperature goes back up. This will allow any remaining moisture to form when the air temperature drops to this dew point. A molecular sieve filter should remove this last trace of moisture. [/color]I think by themselves, desiccant filters will do a good job of removing moisture from the air at the expense of rapid depletion of the media. Any additional means that can be utilized to reduce moisture will result in longer media life. Ie... get rid of the moisture before it gets to the desiccant media. I live in South Carolina and between June and October our dew point temperatures are generally in the 70's so I feel I need all the help I can get to keep the moisture at an acceptable level. I'm sure that In different areas of the country you may be able to get by with just a basic Filter/Separator and desiccant filter.Bottom line....try the desiccant filter and keep a close eye on it to see if you need to add additional means of moisture removal.





 
Bowhunter73I have one of those an really like it, it fills my tanks faster than the shoebox I'm not complaining about the shoebox it great just not fast enough.


Thanks very much for the insight on that. Not to hyjack the thread, but does it have a label on it that shows amp use? I have been unable to find this info online and need to know to be certain I do not overload my vehicles 110 system.

Again sorry....don't mean to hyjack! ;)