Crown #2 - with a few difficulties to overcome.

Hey guys! 
I got my second Crown a couple weeks ago. Why did I get a second Crown? Well, that's a whole story I'm not going to get into right now. But I sure do miss Crown #1! 

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It's nice to se that they're coming with hard cases now. And, it's a nice case too. Granted, it's egg shell inside, but it's still a nice hard case. 
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Finally got the Blue Lam I've wanted since the first time I saw it. ?
I think it's cool how the blue hit "FX" just right. 
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Ah, Finally! A Crown specific instruction manual! 
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After a quick look over, it was time to get started with cleaning the barrel and taking "factory settings" pictures. I was surprised to see the reg set at 120b. I thought it would have been closer to 150b. No big deal to me, factory usually knows best.
After that, I got to work on seasoning the barrel and working towards getting the reg broken in. It doesn't take me long at all to be reminded of how much I dislike shooting off a dual sandbag setup. So... time to get to work installing a rail since these don't come with anything. I try to always have at least one spare picatinny rail in supply. I've been sitting on a rare "right hand" specific Royale stock that needs a rail on it as well. I figured, If I'm doing one, I might as well do both!
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I tape up the area I'll be drilling and drawing on, to protect the finish of the stock and help prevent tearout. 
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Center and locate my rails where I want them. I like my rails to be as far forward as possible but still aesthetically pleasing. this is where I started to notice an issue. 
I wanted to use T-nuts since the Crowns tongue is sooo thin. FX - Don't you think it's time to start adding some type of rail system to your stocks? Come on.
It looked fine on the bottom but, if I were to put it there, the T-nut would protrude past the edge on the top side. No good! This is why I measure twice and cut once. In "one-shot-only" cases like this, it's measure much more than twice before cautiously cutting.
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Just move it back a little, right? 
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Nope. I'd be intruding on the gauge. 
This is still a feasible option, though. I'd just customize the T-nut by cutting and edge. But, I still don't like it. 
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Back to the original location. If I move the screw back a little inside the oval shaped hole, I could secure the rail and have the T-nuts clear everything. Yahtzee? 
2 Issues with this... A) If I locate the screw at the high point between two slots I lose BOTH slots because the screw is wider than the picatinny slot. If I locate it within the low area of the picatinny, I lose only that slot. 
This might be personal preference.... 
B) If I put the screw within the first slot, It pushes my bipod back so far that there has to be a better option available. If I put it in the second slot it not only looks odd but, in reality, it pushes my bipod back to the third slot due to the tapered sides. 
Spinning the rail around won't solve any of these issues either. So, I said "Screw it!" and decided to sleep on it and see if I could come up with another solution.
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I still managed to get the Royale stock done though. I decided to tap the holes for this one since the stock tongue is a little thicker. 
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:)

On to the next difficulty... Tuning.
One of the benefits of the Crown is its ability to be tuned by the shooter. Thank goodness! In this case, it needs it straight out of the box! 
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ES of 53? FX... I expected better than this. 
Ok, Ok... Before you get into the "well, this" and "well that..."
Reg reading 120b, "A" power level, and I shot 110 shots from 240-110. So, it bumped up when it fell off the reg, right? I can accept that. It hit 915fps at shot #87 so, it's totally plausible. 
I deleted all the shots back to shot 85. (Yes, it re-calculates as I do this.)
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ES went down only 3 fps and SD actually went up. I'll take off another 10...
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Same numbers. Take off another 10...
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Same numbers still!?
65 shots, SD of 14.5, and an ES of 49!? BTW, This is after a good 100 shots of break in.
Take off another 10, maybe I'll start to see a difference...
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I'm finally seeing a difference. But, not much. 
55 shots, SD of 14.3, ES of 46. I'd still expect better numbers than this. Also, does this show that I wasn't just falling off the reg?
Another 10...
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Worse? 45s, SD 14.6, ES 46
For comparison, I've got two shot strings from two different .22 Royales. Now... Admittedly, I've played around with Royales in the past, but I've never tuned either one of these. Royale #1 is my sweetheart and I can attest that it hasn't been touched since I bought it. Royale #2 I recently bought used with about 40 shots through it. The previous owner said it was shooting erratically and not performing well. No tuning to my knowledge.
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Gotta love a Royale!
These should be comparable numbers now due to # of shots taken.
R#1 = 43s, SD 3.9, ES 19 Best 
R#2 = 42s, SD 5.2, ES 23 Good 
C#2 = 45s, SD 14.6, ES 46 WHAT!?!?
As I stated earlier, thank goodness these rifles were designed to be tuned by the shooter! This one's going to need it! 
A CF bottle shooting a .25 around 880 should give more than 40 consistent shots. but, lets take off another 10...
Nah... what's the use? I could start screwing with the numbers in different ways but for what reason? And, to what end? Take off every shot that's not exactly (878) and I'll have a beautiful shot string but, it won't be a true story.

Overall, this rifle is beautiful but it is not happy with itself. I can't help but compare this to a Royale which (comparatively speaking) is a pain in the butt to tune but is coming out of the box shooting much more consistent.
Don't take this the wrong way guys, I know it sounds like I'm complaining here. Mostly, I'm not. I admit, I did expect more consistency out of the box but, I enjoy the tuning and learning. I just expected to screw it up more first, before bringing it back to a nice tune. 

UPDATE: As you can see from the pics, these shot strings were taken yesterday. I have since fiddled around with some settings and am seeing my numbers improve. I did not shoot a string over the crony though since I was in the process of adjusting but I think the numbers are drastically improving. I may run a string tomorrow, if I have time.
The Crown, like the Impact, is an ongoing learning experience. Very soon, I'll be traveling and will have to put this all on hold.
As far as the picatinny rail goes, I found a solution and will expand on it some more soon. Happy to be off the sand bags! 
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Happy Shooting!
Tom... and Frank (he looks a little annoyed in this pic.)






 
I just bought my first FX, a 25 cal streamline. I was horrified at its ES as well. I put a tin of pellets through it to at least slightly break it in and afterwards, on a 10 shot string I got a 30 fps spread. My marauder does better than that without a regulator. I tried it again allowing more time between shots to see if it was better. It was better by 1 fps 29 ES this time instead of 30. Very frustrating. I played with some ballistic calculators and though i can't swear to it i am guessing that ES could be as much as .4" in elevation changes at 50 yards. I suppose i could try to tune it to improve it. But i ordered a huma and if that doesn't improve it i will tune it with the huma installed. Some days i get better accuracy than the marauder. Some days i don't . Its been very frustrating.
 
"Grin_Reaver"
"Kyler"I will cut it down to fit and glass bed it.
Your comment got me thinking. Do PCPs benefit from stock bedding the same way powder burners do?
I've also wondered that. But I thought about and an air rifle doesn't have much "kick" at all so I dont see how it would improve anything. Well maybe POI shift 2henvtaking stock off and on.
Another thing I wondered is like on a .22lr the take down screw is is very sensitive to torque. So I wonder if over tightening the take down bolts on a PCP would effect anything? I think we as airgunners have a lot to learn from the way firearms are set up and tuned and all that good stuff.


anyhow aawesome post TOM!! Can't wait to see what the next string will bring you
 
Great post as usual Tom, I have seen that jumpy/erratic shot string before, particularly from new Crowns and Impacts that have the newer Belleville washers. I would be willing to bet that the inner surface of the washers have gouged a few rings into your reg piston, causing the reg to settle slightly differently after each shot. I have a Crown setup at the moment at 117 bar, shooting the .25 25 grain at around 880 with an es of about 13 fps through the 96 shot string, 250 to 135 bar.

I noticed the gouging first when I ordered some replacement washers for my gen 1 Impact. I replaced the washers and immediately noticed the jumpy FPS, I couldn't for the life of me figure out why when I decided to check the washer stack only to find my brand new piston all gouged up. I took the opportunity to do a little Ernest reg washer and piston tune with some 1000 sandpaper and 3m emery cloth. The crown I work on had the same, as well as my friends new Impact...
 
Updates:

New Chrony numbers first. 
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85s, SD 1.8, ES 11 THAT'S more like it! I noticed my Chronograph would display one number (ex. 857) and the iPod was recording a different number (ex 853). Bad Crony? I don't know and wasn't going to stop my string. It was reading different yet consistent. Odd... I'll have to send it back.
So, I switched out Chronographs. I have 2. I keep one hidden away in its case and the other usually hangs around the shop getting in the way.
Shot string with Chronograph 2...
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89s, SD 3, ES 16. That's a shot string I can start to respect. I like the first one better but, this isn't bad at all. 

On to the rail install....
Accu-Tac to the rescue! I got my shipment in, and this was one of the things in the box. 
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I won't go into all the detail on all the back and forth measuring I did. There was a LOT. It had to do with tapered edges, screw holes, usability after install, and on, and on. 
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Ultimately, I went with the Accu-tac because my Tomcat Airguns decal edge fit perfectly. Just kidding. This was one of the many measurements I looked at. The Accu-tac's curve is based off a 3" dia. Whereas, the Atlas is based off something less, like 2.5 or 2.75.

Now that there's a plan, it's time to move on to the T-nut Install.....
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Locate the holes and center punch them. Then drill all the way through with a very small bit and make sure its angled correctly.
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Set up at the drill press.
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I used the adjustable butt pad to help me hold the stock level! ?
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Ready for the big paddle. This part is a bit intimidating.
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Test fit. Not quite there yet. I need this to be flush due to the lack of clearance to the bottle.
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That looks better. 
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Drill out the rest with a 1/4" bit. 
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And fit it into place! 
Since I had so much material to work with on the other hole, I decided to try the drill/tap method. I like this method because it's pretty easy to do and leaves a very clean look. 
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Laid out the bits and made sure to put the 1/4" one far away so I didn't make a mistake. 
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Sizing for depth. There's no real need to drill this hole all the way through. It just needs a little extra to allow for the tip of the tap.
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Very important to clear the shavings FREQUENTLY during the tapping process. I ended up using the small pilot hole as a blowhole! 
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Nice clean hole. One T-nut and one tapped. 
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FAIL!
Yeah... Ultimately, tapping the hole did not hold up to the strain. I think it was due to using such a fine thread pitch. I usually use a 24 thread pitch and this was a 32. Too fine of threads! It stripped right out when I went to tighten it down. 
But, this is another reason why I like to try this method first. The threaded hole is smaller than the 1/4" hole that is necessary for the T-nut. So, I just switched over to plan B without missing a beat! 
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Double check the plan and get to drilling. This is where it's nice to have the little pilot hole. I know I'm in the right spot and at the right angle.
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Test fit looks good. On to drilling out the rest of the hole.
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WARNING! If you find yourself here, watch out for a "sucking" drill bit. Since your only slightly increasing the size of a hole, it could suck the bit down too fast or raise the stock right off the table and cause damage.
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Smash down the points and test for fit.
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Pre-install to check for fit and screw clearance. Using the allen key as a straight edge, checked to make sure the screw was not above the wood anywhere. Tough to see in the pic but, there's just a little bit of space. Good to go.
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Due to screw length difference, I had to use a button head up front and a tapered head in the back. The Accu-tac rail comes with silver screws. Probably stainless steel. I'm going to swap them out for tapered black in the near future.There was also a size difference. You can see how much longer the silver is in the back ground.
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Ready for inspection!!
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Psst... That's the brand new Accu-tac HD-50 on there. I'll be doing a review on it over the next few weeks.


Along with just a few others! LOL!!! ?
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Happy Shooting!! 
Tom


P.S. To @Michael and the AGN staff. THANK YOU for addressing the picture uploading! Being able to upload multiple pictures at once is extremely helpful!