Compressor oil for Air Venturi HPA compressor???

Personally, I wouldn't. I'd go to Home Depot or similar and get some actual compressor oil. JMO

Thos oil are for car engines. Not for compressor. Home depot and Lowe's have some synthetic compressor oil if you cant wait.

When dealing with a "compressor", it's best to get Compressor-Specific lubrication.
I can't stress enough how important this can be, and Highly Recommend Royal Purple. 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RNJ01513 



Sam -

That should work just fine. 

That should work just fine.

Click to expand...

That’s what I’ve been using in my Hatsan Lightning... no problems so far... I got mine at Lowe’s.

I would agree with above. however, I've been using Napa 5-20 full synthetic for a couple years!

Royal Purple for me.

I learned the hard way. I just got done rebuilding my Kalitte compressor, that I was running the Royle Purple compressor oil in. The compressor got slower and slower to fill a tank, then wouldn't get over 3000 psi. I could smell oil, after it ran awhile. On inspection, the high side piston (rod) and sleeve, were badly worn, and showed signs of burnt oil! I now run this Coltri oil in all my compressors, including my 4 cylinder DAVV, which recommends Coltri oil. Because of the very high pressure we have in these PCP compressors, it takes a special oil, to hold up to the heat created with the high pressure.It is expensive, but so are compressors.



Coltri CE 750 is a fully synthetic oil specially developed for lubrication of reciprocating high-pressure breathing air compressors.

WARNING: Never use motor oil in a compressor.

https://www.nuvair.com/coltri-750.html

I've used the Coltri CE 750 as well. The Kobalt compressor oil would seem to be good also but the Coltri lube is seemingly engineered for HPA compressors.

Oil Conversion Chart

SAE-to-ISO

Being that it is synthetic and non detergent, and ISO 100 it should work fine.

Just a tip: If you ever have to fill a 74 cubic foot tank from completely empty, do it in stages. If you do fill an empty tank fill, fill for maybe 20 minutes then let it cool for a while. I would recommend a half an hour, but I am a little cautious. You can let the cooing system run the entire time. I refill my tank when it gets down to +/- 3000 PSI (200BAR) and it usually takes about 18 minutes for it to get to 4,250 PSI (300BAR) which is as high as I care to fill it. Since I can always refill it I don't want to tax my compressor for the last grueling couple hundred PSI.

Also I run 50/50 Preston antifreeze in my compressor, (an AV 4500) mainly for the corrosion protection it affords aluminum and bi metal components in the compressor. My compressor never goes above 67C during those top offs. Best of Luck, you have a good compressor.

Maybe, one of these days, I'll do what I've always wanted, and plumb in a fresh water line from my well, to the compressor. A cut off valve, to turn on when running, and the output could be routed out to the garden, or whatever. Heat is the main enemy with any of these compressors.

I ran my compressor 2 years on #30 non detergent motor oil =ISO 100 without any problems. There is no combustion so it really doesn't get carbon build up on the pistons. Synthetic might last longer between oil change's It's just a lubricant. it still runs I just upgraded to a better compressor.

Royal Purple works the best in my AV 4500 compressor. Runs smoother and cooler. Order it from Amazon.