A few In /Out of rear access cap getting at valve to make Test changes is a WHOLE LOT EASIER .. once set you can forget about it !!
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Tuning Cobra valve tech built into raw valve
- Thread starter Airgunmann
- Start date
Yes I would agree it would be easier to build and once set you really wouldn't need to adjust it needle valve sticking out the front would include more orings and threading than I want to do but Its doable and you could detune with a turn of a screw driver but without it you still should be able to obtain more efficiency than what a conventional valve can do think I'll just stick to fitting it without a needle valve
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I think it would be better than what a balanced valve and a bumper could probably do to besides the fact that for the balance valve you would need to change hammer weight and spring weight which would involve more work also
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Your welcome ...
As one who likely has dived deeper into this techs cause and effect having written threads on said subject than anyone, yes it becomes a tad deeper hole of cause and effect than most comprehend or wish to educate themself further about.
Scott S
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I need to study the cobra valve vs balanced valve in detail. Further Cobra valve vs keeping one end of the valve pin in Atmospheric pressure like FX does.
Once all this and related cause and effect gets clear to me I shall also jump into it as I get time.
Thanks Scott.
Bhaur
Once all this and related cause and effect gets clear to me I shall also jump into it as I get time.
Thanks Scott.
Bhaur
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Yeah balance valve opens easier lighter hammer strike and is harder to control the cobra valve is like a conventional valve but uses the chamber like the poppet spring but much faster once you get the vent to the right size you will have the power you want but it will slam the valve shut really fast not using anymore air than it needs usually results in more shots and tighter fps spread works very well when done right I thought about it before but it just came to me the other night on how to fit it inside the raw . The balance valve would be harder to do need to drill threw the valve stem and vent it in the throat of the valve size of it's vent has to be right or it will either create a dump valve or just use to much air but if you step it up slowly and get it right gain the benefits of lighter hammer and spring for easier cocking easier opening of the valve being there is a side lever the easier cocking doesn't really matter as much they both have there benefits though
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I still have some of my focus on fx style valves which gave one end of stem in ATM atmosphere.
Without altering valve, by just putting light valve spring, light hammer and light hammer spring we can get great results just like fx does.
Bhaur
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I'm leaving the original raw valve in place just shortening the spring guide in front of the poppet and fitting the chamber over the guide that way if I want I can make a longer derlin spring guide and go back to original design using what ever spring I want but will probably stay a cobra valve good luck on your build and thanks again for all your help mubhaur
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Motorhead do you have to use a oring or will tight fitting peek work in aluminum chamber just getting started and was going to start on a new peek poppet first
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Well I got a new poppet made and chamber mounted to the spring guide had it fitted in the gun tried to see if it would seal up it wouldn't found the spring was jamming the poppet put in a smaller spring in the middle of the chamber but I'll have to get a little stiffer one for it isn't shutting the valve all the way causing a leak threw transfer port may have to shorten my chamber some to with a peek plug drilled a little to deep ran out of time tonight to get it working but I'm close I'll get some pictures sometime this week and hopefully get it working like it should got a tiny vent hole to start with all I had was .025 that wasnt broken or dull so it will need to be used in size also I might just drill a second one to start with
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Yes you want to use a light fitting o-ring to make the seal between poppet head and chamber. This allows for sight vertical misalignment / lateral motion to remain very low friction. yet maintain a seal.
IT ALSO has 100% of the vent calibration to the hole size and not imprecise leaking around the poppet to tube if no o-ring was present.
In the early R&D we tried both ways and quickly abandoned trying to use no o-ring .. just created too many manufacturing issues, precision of alignment complications, and inconsistency due to wear.
Scott S
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Ok I did fit a oring but I have to tight of fitting poppet yet I believe so it will take some time to work out the kinks and get it right I'm sure the parts I made last night poppet is longer than it needs to be and the chamber is deeper also thanks for the input
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Ok then the chamber will probably be good I need to fit a little stiffer small spring so the valve will go shut to fill it isn't quite making it and was going to ad a second .025 vent hole only bit I have that is sharp or not broken at the time
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Lennyk I will throw up some pictures of my first try at this I'm my 25 cal raw hm1000 x this coming week I'm busy this weekend so there will be more coming
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Here is my first try at it chamber is .250 and about 1/2 inch deep the larger part on the poppet is at .300 I need to fit a spring yet in the tube also and take a little more off the poppet it is to tight fitting yet
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