Clicking vs Holdover

Jump to latest Follow Reply
H

Haganaga

Member
Apr 20, 2018
398
15
Ca, United States
I’m evolving as a pester with ground squirrels being my targets. Started out with little guesswork because the squirrel population was so large we had only to make 40 yard shots all last spring and summer. Well we did a number on the close ones because everything now is 60+ yards. Ok. I got Strelok and made some longer shots. Got some tips on zeroing every time out and entering weather etc. 

Now my concern is while I’m dialing, I’m losing the critters to movement to different ranges or ducking into their holes. 

I understand dialing in on a set distance, such as a congregation of squirrels on a wood pile or a flock of birds on a silo, but with ranges changing shot to shot, I’m doing an awful lot of clicking.

How many are using Strelok to know distances at the hash marks of their scopes and only clicking when the ranges get way out there. My scope is a 20x and at 10 moa elevation, I can use the hash marks to shoot anything from 25 to 107 yards. I started thinking about this after I got home.

Does anyone do anything similar? I just thought this would be a lot quicker on target and trigger pull. Plus I got worried I was gonna wear out the turret! 

Any tricks or tips from the more experienced is appreciated.
 
I dial for elevation and also use the hash marks on my scope when necessary, usually for quick shots. On Chairgun Pro there is a place in the program where you can print out a small picture of your reticle with yardages at each hash mark. I make a small print out and tape it to the top rear of my scope so I can use it as a quick reference if I forget the yardages. I don't know if that's a feature of Strelok but even if it isn't, it's easy to make a little reticle-yardage chart. 

Stoti

1555210113_16899225995cb29f819846b4.54365149_IMG-1394 (3).JPG

 
Upvote 0
That’s what I am referring to with hash marks for distances. Of course they change with barometric pressure and temp. But I think we’re talking about the same thing. I’ll dial in a medium range using the hash marks for the spread. Then I’ll only have to dial when they get real far. That is what you guys are saying, less clicking, more shooting?
 
Upvote 0
If possible, take a range-finder, note-pad, and your rig to a body of water or dirt field where you get INSTANT feedback on every shot taken, and record results on the note-pad relating to where your shots land at every distance in relation to whatever multiple aiming-points your scope offers. One afternoon is all you'll need to establish an INSTINCTUAL level of familiarization with your equipment. In other words, "one (afternoon) and you're done!" 

Or you can put your faith in theory and technicality... then devote at least an afternoon to exploring how theory and technicality relates to reality (with your rig).

1555220955_7658268395cb2c9dba5c511.88640397_Champion trophies.jpg
 
 
Upvote 0
I used to holdover but after I got my mtc viper pro. I set target out to 20 yard, 30, 40, 50, all the way to 100 yards. I shoot, and Mark a line on the small opening on the turret. Then write the yard. I used a range finder, know the distance of the target. Dial turret to whatever yard they at. And hold for any wind. Spot on. I don't trust these ballistic calculator. You have to enter, weight, speed, temp, humidity, wind, bc, etc. Too much for me. 
 
Upvote 0
All good advice and I am taking it all in. Last two seem to deal with my due diligence when it comes to Strelok vs my rifle and actual results. I’ll have to rack my brain to find where I can get out to these ranges. But one question, how do you compensate for angles? My hunting ground is a rolling pasture out to past 250 yards and more. Angles can vary from -7deg to up 8deg. 
 
Upvote 0
Currently only use holdovers, have a shooting notebook with each gun ranged 25 to 130 yards w recorded holdovers every 5 yards. I'm currently lucky enough to have a backyard range w targets from 25 to 130 yards. An afternoon and some soft dirt targets ranging from 25 to 150 yards will give you real world feedback on your individual rig, nothing beats that. Not to mention doing that a few times makes it instinctual as airngasman said, so quicker shots by far in the end.
 
Upvote 0
@ stoti,

They say "a picture is worth a thousand words" & yet I'm at a loss as to what that reticle is called (Horus/Christmas tree) ? What brand/brand's of scope's offer it & is it offered in the first or second focal plane or both? This reticle is just the ticket! The cross hairs appear to be really fine so as not to obstruct your aiming point (small target) at distance. If it is only available in the first focal plane, is the scope's reticle still useable on low magnification for small targets (up close)?Thank you for sharing. 
 
Upvote 0
It's a Vortex Diamondback tactical 6-24x50 FFP. I use FFP so that my spacing stays the same at different magnifications. I usually have it between 20-22x unless I need more or less magnification for something.

Haganaga- Airandgasman was talking about figuring out your holdovers without Strelok or another program. We didn't talk about the fact that if you use a computer to come up with your holdovers, you still have to verify all of them by actually shooting targets and making the adjustments to your range card. They are never perfect straight out of the shoot. Good luck. 

Stoti
 
Upvote 0
In this short clip, I had already ranged the shot and it took all of 2 seconds to dial it into the turret.

I'm not trying to say dialing is better, but it's not hard. And when you consider you then only have to worry about holding off for wind, making the shot is actually easier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ibp_FSyD3O8

Also check this pic.......if I wanted to hold on the reticle for it, I'd have needed to use 10x magnification instead of 20x. And then try to hold on that red dot......you can see why I say holding just for wind makes the shot easier. Yes a different reticle would have come in handy here, but since I dial for elevation, I didn't need all the windage holds down there.

1555263545_13014566445cb37039579211.61971198_Clipboard011.jpg


https://youtu.be/Wp1Cn0LS8ec
 
Upvote 0
Where I shoot there are pests at all sorts of ranges and time is critical so I use only holdovers. I just picked up a SWFA 3-15 so I may start to dial in elevation if I'm doing some longer distance shooting. 

My thoughts are if there is very limited time for the shot, which is usually shorter distances, holdovers are great. If you're further out you usually have more time so dialing would be fine, especially if you're holding a lot for wind.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu