Clear Ballistics Black Friday 5 day sale

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Kinetic45

Member
Nov 26, 2017
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Texas, United States
Clear Ballistics has a 30% off Black Friday sale on all their synthetic ballistic gelatin and associated products through Monday midnight.

Clear and reusable many times.

This is what I use now, no more messy cooking gelatin and no refrigerating or transport hassles. I bought a block mold too and just pop the shot up block in it and into the oven and melt it down for the next time. 

Great for real Big Bore terminal ballistics tests so you KNOW what your bullet is going to do on game. I don't just shoot it at short range, I shoot it at the range I expect to be hunting at to see what the bullet does after it's slowed down. And honestly, if you can't hit an 8x8 target (or if using the Airgun 4x4 blocks) 100 yards (or the range you are hunting at) you should not be hunting!

https://www.clearballistics.com/store/

FYi - I use the 20% 'military' spec blocks, 8x8x16, not the 10% Alphabet org grade because it seems to more reflect what I've seen in hogs
 
Nice find. Easier then Jellow. I just test in water jugs. Works with PB ammo and AR slugs. Either way, a perfect mushroom doesn’t normally happen on game. My experience, at least on deer, the slug hits a rib on the way in and kicks sideways a bit before connecting with moist tissue. So the perfect mushroom you see in jell is now a lopsided mashed hunk of lead. 


Left picture is a 220 gn hp. This is using water jugs at 50 and 100 yards. The 50 is a perfect mushroom. 
Right picture is the same 220 gn hp recovered from a buck I shot this year at 65 yards. It hit a rib on the way in, went through the heart, broke another rib on the way out. Found the slug just under the far side hide. It’s still a pretty nice expansion. But it’s not what you would see in jell. I do like using jell for testing PB hp loads as it catches the fragments For viewing. Where as water jugs explode and loose the small fragments.mI am thinking of picking up some of this for that purpose. Thanks for the link. 



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1575068330_14320926565de1a2aa4d85c8.87627108_941D2D42-7B49-4F54-B7A8-4E923AB25438.jpeg

 
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Water however is less dense than ballistic gelatin.

And the plastic of the jug gives different results than an animals hide. And even there there's lots of variation - a hogs hide is sure different than a coyote or a deer.

The thing is, there is no perfect substitute for real tissue BUT we can use a consistent substitute to do comparisons. I've shot plenty of jugs too and seen that there's some problems with being able to get consistent results. I've fired THOUSANDS of shots into many different media* and ballistic gelatin is the best.

*soft river banks, wet paper pulp, plastic containers with water, modeling clay, soap, sawdust, styrofoam peanuts, snowbanks, swimming pools, cotton bales, fine ground rubber, etc...

I even built a tank years ago that had a clear sides (for video) and the front and back faced with plastic poly sheet (visqueen) that was 24" x 24" by 72" for shooting into and seeing both cavity generated and length of penetration.. I found water causes much less expansion than actually happens with flesh so you have to figure that compensation into your results. I quit using it because it was a LOT of work to fill it's volume (several hundred gallons) and then the 20 mil plastic sheet gets holes that leak the water out when shot. I finally found a marine tape that would stick wet to use to patch holes. Could maybe get four tests a day.

Yup, DIY is great but a lot of government / military, medical research and commercial bullet manufacturers picked ballistic gelatin because it gives the best, most comparative, constant results. I'll go with their recommendations based on real world experience.
 
Upvote 0
Tip on the Slayer tuning:

The dwell screw on the valve adjusts the power level

The hammer spring adjusts the beginning of the curve.

Note, some Slayers have a bit of 'sticktion' (or scientifically, 'dynamic friction') if they've been sitting a few days since last fired. I always dry fire (no slug but full pressure then top off) before I go out to test/shoot/hunt.

Right now I'm testing Viton o-rings for the balance piston and shaft seal in the valve as they have much less static friction than the neoprene EDPM or polyurethane o-rings.
 
Upvote 0
Tip on the Slayer tuning:

The dwell screw on the valve adjusts the power level

The hammer spring adjusts the beginning of the curve.

Note, some Slayers have a bit of 'sticktion' (or scientifically, 'dynamic friction') if they've been sitting a few days since last fired. I always dry fire (no slug but full pressure then top off) before I go out to test/shoot/hunt.

Right now I'm testing Viton o-rings for the balance piston and shaft seal in the valve as they have much less static friction than the neoprene EDPM or polyurethane o-rings.
Click to expand...

That might explain why when the gun sits overnight the cold bore shot is really low FPS. Right now it only shoots these 140's around 765 FPS with pressures between 3175-2650. I saw triggertreat's post about bell-curving shots around 950 FPS at these pressures. 

I can see the hammer spring adjustment screw, but how do you get to the dwell screw on the valve?
 
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