Until you know if casting is really for you you might buy the basic/cheap Lee basic melting pot or perhaps the Lyman Big Dipper Casting Kit (115 Volt).
NOE bullet molds has good molds and sells a quality handle (Lee sells a cheap handle but I've had problems long term with them if you stay in it) The Lyman and RCBS handles are over priced.
Handle:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=69 They also sell one of the best sizing systems going and the different insert dies are cheap too. Buy a .257 and a .258 insert.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=564_104 I don't use scrap lead anymore, it's just too inconsistent, so I buy from Rotometals and use the 1:40 tin:lead alloy (about 2.5%) as I've found too hard of bullets loses accuracy in airguns. Plus the harder the bullet the harder to chamber / engrave into the rifling. Powder burners need harder alloys usually, it's not the same with us so be cautious on who's advice you are taking. And at the lower airgun velocities too hard just does not expand at longer ranges. You only need 1% tin to get good fill out. Note that that effect disapears at over 800 degrees or so so too hot is bad too.
You will need to clean and flux the melt as the tin oxidizes and forms a skin on the top every so often. A bit of wax about the size of a pea dropped into the melt and stired will reduce it and mix it back in. I also like to then add some Franklin Arsonel flux as a double treatment
https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/cleancast-lead-flux---1-lb/441888.html (Note it's cheaper elsewhere from this link so shop around)
And I've found that although pellets don't really need lubrication slugs definitely do. But that's a whole Pandora's Box issue and people can get really heated discussing it.
I try every new thing that comes along but I can give you some starting recommendations. A lot of people use synthetic RadioControl car 'Shock Oil' to lube with, [put some bullets in a ziploc, add a few drops of oil and kneed around till every bullet has a film of oil]... but thats messy and works at the shooting bench but picks up dirt and crud in the field. Some people are using a wax like Rooster Jacket [dilute 50% with water, put bullets in a ziploc and add a teaspoon of mix then coat all the bullets, drain and put on a silicone baking sheet to dry. the dried Rooster is water proof and not sticky] or you can use one of the solvent based waxes like FinishLine [again use the bag and squirt some in, kneed and pour out to dry]
I'm putting a batch of bullets in a clean butter tub, adding in a pinch of Hexagional Boron Nitride (nickname 'white graphite' and it is VERY slick, almost as slick as Teflon) and a squirt of FinishLine Dry Wax chain lube (Some people like the Teflon containing version)
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/wax-lube. Put the lid on and gently rotate/tumble over and over for a few minutes (6 or 7) and the bullets get coated, then dump out on that silicone baking mat to dry. I'm not getting fouling in a couple of hundred shots with this.
