Built another Pellet Trap

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Bigragu

Bigragu

Member
Jul 8, 2018
4,884
2,355
CA, United States
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Awhile back a year ago I posted up my new trap that I had made out of 1/4” welded up plate. Has worked great, and it doesn’t matter what distance. Wether 36” away shooting thru a chronograph or 50 yards away, my 30 cal pellets land on them like flies on a windshield at freeway speeds. But, I have to say, it is heavy with an additional 8 lbs of duct seal. 

My much lighter version which was a NEMA type 1 electrical junction box at 10” x 10” was way lighter, but the 16 ga steel was easily phased by the 30 and 25 caliber pellets, if you were first sighting in a freshly mounted scope. 



After a year of using a hand truck to haul my trap out to 50 yards, I told myself I needed a lighter version.





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So back to the electrical box box I went, but this time what I did different was line the inside backside with 3/16” plate, bolted up, then cover the face of the electrical box with a 1/4” plate picture frame, to protect the face of the trap. Way, way lighter by about 15 lbs. So, this will be my haul out to 50 yards trap, while the heavy one can be for chronograph use. The electrical box doesn’t work to well shooting thru a chrony 3’ away cause of its lighter weight, I need to clamp it to the table as the shots keep driving it backwards. The heavy all 1/4” plate one I don’t need to clamp down. It hardly budged with a 30 cal shooting 876 FPS at 36” away.




 
That is very sweet, BBB! You do sheet metal work or sumtin’? LOL! I’m looking at that and I see maybe, 5 lbs? Super light. Can you tell me the depth of that? It looks at about 5” deep, 14” wide, and 16-18” tall? I’m curious anpit the depth for sure, as I’ve never worked with that rubber mulch stuff. Do your pellets ever make it all the way to the back side? 

I think this’ll be my last run with that duct seal. It adds too much weight at a pound a bar, and my 1/4” steel plate target takes 8 bars, while the electrical box takes 5. I think I’m gonna get some rolled birdscreen mesh, like 1/8” and wedge that inside my traps, on top of the rubber mulch to keep it in place, and proceed with magnetizing the targets onto the face of the trap.
 
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I used .062 alum the dimensions are 12" wide 14" tall and 5" deep . The prototype i made was only 3" deep and when you shot at the same spot on the target after 2 or 3 shots it would hit the back the new one does not. As far as trapping the mulch if you have a box all you need is an angle on each side and on the bottom about 3/16 " space. I lay it flat put the mulch in the slide the card board and the mulch stays put when you stand it up. I found some old election signs which are 1/8" thick corrugated plastic and hold up nicely, You can shoot 500 rounds before changing the cardboard. I saw a guy use a plastic storage box from you tube and thats what gave me the idea to take it one step further actually ( the box was $12 at home depot the aluminum was free so guess which way i went.
 
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Sweet! Thanks for that info. Another one I’ve often wondered about is that dead stop foam material they use for crossbow targets. I used to own a PSE crossbow back in 1988 and with it I bought this 30” tall x 24” wide x 6” deep target, made exclusively for cross bow bolt heads. When you fired the material gripped tightly onto the shaft as it stopped it instantly. I remember it was a bear to pull a bolt out. Oh, by the way, it’s not the one shown in one of my pics, under the work bench. That one, I don’t know where I got it from, but it’s more of a canvas bag with light weight fluff in it. 

I ended up returning the crossbow after 3 uses, as I started suffering from low back pain, and figured cocking the crossbow wasn’t the smartest move. But, I can’t remember what I did with that target! One of these days when I head out to cabelas in Reno I’ll try and pick another one up, to see what it does with pellets.

Here in CA they started using a duct liner about 15 years back, on the inside of ducts that was a 1” to 1 1/2” thick( thicker stuff was for roof duct) dense rubber, instead of regular duct liner glued and pinned on. It was used mainly on jobs with clean rooms and also hospital operating room areas. Have you come across that stuff in your area? I’m wondering how that material would do, at the inside of a pellet trap.
 
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I had a regular bow target doesn't work it just blows right threw my bow was shooting at about 390 fps i think. I think becasuse of the speed and the diameter that doesn't slow it down much tried that with the one i had. The duct closed cell insulation we used a good bit of tried it to doesn't work it's called Armaflex and another brand is Rubertex. We had some 2" and it blew through it I think its because it doesn't have healing capcaity .

I even have one of those self healing targets that spin if you shoot it enough in one spot it makes a hole mine did so now i just use it as a hole to shoot threw.

In my target i only shoot a 22 i see you are shooting a 25 and 30 might not be deep enough for those calibers. This is the you tube video that gave me the idea 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0AFyRyQJdc
 
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Thanks for that insight, BBB. I think I know what I’m gonna do, and you’ll be able to relate. 

Im going to get a tall 5 gallon bucket, the ones used for pool chlorine tabs. I’m going to make a rectangular on round sheet metal fitting, with an inside clinch lock, and make it 5” in depth.

To keep the mulch from flowing into the rectangular tap I’ll put birdscreen mesh on top of the buckets exterior, Before I mount the tap in. Sandwich it in between the tap and the bucket, you know. Or maybe incorporate a slot like you did in the tap to be able to slide in a piece of thin cardboard. The tap will have a 3/4” inside flange to use my magnets on to hold the target. I think that’ll be the set up right there.
 
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