Buggered screws

Take your time and carefully peen them back into shape. I am using a 4 oz. hammer. Tap, tap, tap LIGHTLY. Don't use your BMF64OH. Take your time and carefully work the metal back in shape.Take your time! I used a screw scrap screw to demonstrate. Looks really bad. So let's see what you can do. I like to lightly hold them in a lathe chuck. After I get the metal pushed back I carefully file rounded screws or lightly face flat head screws. Clean up the slot with a needle file or hacksaw blade if it's small. Miniature hacksaw ($5 0r $6 at the hardware store) has a thinner blade if needed. Take your time. Polish with fine paper and oil. Oil contains the abrasive and keeps it off your lathe ways. Also floats the metal particles avoiding clogged paper. Cold blue. Look better? 

You can also do pretty well polishing in the drill press or even a hand drill.

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Thank you for the compliments. You don't need heat. The metal will go back where it was if you peen slowly and carefully. Doesn't take that long to do. 

Take an old screw and try it.

I work on a lot of prewar BSA and I can't stand to look at butchered screws. Sometimes I make new ones. BSA used a proprietary thread so there is no standard thread to use for repairs or replacements. No taps or dies. Certain replacement screws are available in UK. Why buy them if I can make them in a few minutes? Some screws I made. Cocking link screw had to have a little crescent milled for the keeper screw..
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First time I've seen that peening trick. Pretty cool!

Recently I messed up screws for a Dakota Style inlet sling swivel in the butt of a TX200. I tried to match the slot driver perfectly but still messed them up, four in fact!

I took the screw to Ace Hardware. I found a screw of the proper length, diameter, and threads. But, the head was too large to fit in the countersunk part of the swivel. I put the screw in my drill press and using a fine file I was able to work that head to a diameter that would counter sink. It was very easy.