Bubble level. Can someone give me some info.

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ImpactX

ImpactX

Member
May 4, 2019
636
18
Minnesota, United States
Ok just purchased a rifle bubble level for $36. I have a few questions. 

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Is it normal for the bubble level to be centered on a flat surface, but when you turn the level around 180, it is off center? How is this possible? If the bubble is centered, meaning the surface is level. When flip it 180, shouldn't it still be center? Picture below, same bubble level, then 2nd pic show same bubble level but now flip 180. And is off center. (Note, gun is clap down on a vise and not move or even touch, just flip the bubble level 180 degree)

20210429_160653.1619730871.jpg
20210429_160636.1619730871.jpg


Now another question. It came with 2 flat bubble level, when place on the same surface they are showing different levels. So how would I know which one to trust? Shouldn't both bubble levels be the same if they are on the same surface?

20210429_160727.1619731042.jpg

 
I hate to say it but those are poorly manufactured. You are exactly right that if it reads level on a flat surface you should be able to spin 180 and reads level again. they obviously don't have the tubes aligned with the base on those, I hope you can get a refund. If you have a solid table and gun vise trust your eyes that your gun is "vertical". Clamp the gun in with the scope loose in it's mounts and aligned front to back for proper eye relief. spin the scope to line up with a plumb bob down range and lock it down.... done. Add a scope mounted level if needed before removing from the vise.
 
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A plumb bob hung in front of a mirror and rifle in a mechanical rest is how to get reticle aligned with center of bore.

BKL or fully adjustable rings to keep it there.

Feeler gauges and torq wrench in ft/inches for specs with vibratite if you're using a springer. Feeler gauges may also be stacked under scope to a flat section of receiver, but I like a fine white string in front of a mirror. Be aware a scope can roll when you tighten to spec. 

Optically center your scope in a mirror first or you'll see pellets come up from left or right & not be true past your near zero. 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/a-guide-warning-on-used-scopes/


 
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I had that same thing happen with a couple of other levels. My solution was to buy a 5 pack of glass bubble level vials off ebay. They were all perfectly level, being made from glass tubes. I put them on the picatinny rail when I mount a scope to get it really close to vertical with the bore. 

On a side note, I always set the scope's level using the vertical crosshair with a plumb line first and mount an anti-cant bubble level device on the scope permanently. Then I align the bore of the rifle under that using the glass bubble level on the rail as described above. You can fine tune the rifle's cant under the scope by shooting it in on a calm day if you find that it is off a little.
 
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Dont overthink the level situation. Appears you have an over designed scope level. Actually the cheaper, clamp on the scope tube are much easier to install and can easily be looked at with both eyes open. Find a flat area on your stock for a small bubble level then adjust your scope with a plumb bob. Been doing it this way for 30 yrs with no complaints. I used to make them by buying cheap aluminum rings and milling a slot on the clamp side for a small bubble level. Mount on scope tube with scope aligned with plumb bob. Simple, easy and it works !!!
 
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Depends on which problem you are trying to solve - mounting the scope level (such that a plumb line intersects the bore and scope axis) or fixing cant in the shooters hold. If you can't hold the gun level, or tell when it's level, none of the techniques involving plumb bobs or building corners are going to work. (Well, they'll get the reticle vertical with your hold, but that may or may not be with the rifle vertical. The advantage to something like the wheeler kit (or the mirror trick, if your scope focuses close enough to make it work) is that it guarantees that your scope and your bore are in a vertical axis. Having established that, you can use the plumb bob or other vertical to adjust a scope level to use for determining if there's cant in your hold. I view scope levels as a training aid just to get you used to what your rifle feels like when it's truly level. 

All that said, some complain about tiny errors in level or cant without really understanding how little that affects the point of impact - and at airgun ranges it's very little. Yep, it gets magnified by the terrible BC of most of our projectiles, but it still doesn't amount to much. If you were *way* out of alignment it would matter, but if your receiver is 20seconds out of level with your barrel and you align to it you'll probably never notice the "error".

GsT
 
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There is no guarantee that glass is accurate. Any precision level will have an adjustment for calibration. There is also the question of sensitivity - some levels seem accurate, because they are not very sensitive - they just don't move if you're off by only a degree or so. Really good levels state their sensitivity and may or may not come calibrated.

GsT
 
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Depends on which problem you are trying to solve - mounting the scope level (such that a plumb line intersects the bore and scope axis) or fixing cant in the shooters hold. If you can't hold the gun level, or tell when it's level, none of the techniques involving plumb bobs or building corners are going to work. (Well, they'll get the reticle vertical with your hold, but that may or may not be with the rifle vertical. The advantage to something like the wheeler kit (or the mirror trick, if your scope focuses close enough to make it work) is that it guarantees that your scope and your bore are in a vertical axis. Having established that, you can use the plumb bob or other vertical to adjust a scope level to use for determining if there's cant in your hold. I view scope levels as a training aid just to get you used to what your rifle feels like when it's truly level. 

All that said, some complain about tiny errors in level or cant without really understanding how little that affects the point of impact - and at airgun ranges it's very little. Yep, it gets magnified by the terrible BC of most of our projectiles, but it still doesn't amount to much. If you were *way* out of alignment it would matter, but if your receiver is 20seconds out of level with your barrel and you align to it you'll probably never notice the "error".

GsT
Click to expand...

"and at airgun ranges it's very little." 

Seems "airgun ranges" lacks a little specificity and is progressively getting longer. My belief is that such such errors CAN BE important at air gun ranges. MORE important at longer ranges? Sure. But still important for "airguns" to varying degrees.
 
Upvote 0
Depends on which problem you are trying to solve - mounting the scope level (such that a plumb line intersects the bore and scope axis) or fixing cant in the shooters hold. If you can't hold the gun level, or tell when it's level, none of the techniques involving plumb bobs or building corners are going to work. (Well, they'll get the reticle vertical with your hold, but that may or may not be with the rifle vertical. The advantage to something like the wheeler kit (or the mirror trick, if your scope focuses close enough to make it work) is that it guarantees that your scope and your bore are in a vertical axis. Having established that, you can use the plumb bob or other vertical to adjust a scope level to use for determining if there's cant in your hold. I view scope levels as a training aid just to get you used to what your rifle feels like when it's truly level. 

All that said, some complain about tiny errors in level or cant without really understanding how little that affects the point of impact - and at airgun ranges it's very little. Yep, it gets magnified by the terrible BC of most of our projectiles, but it still doesn't amount to much. If you were *way* out of alignment it would matter, but if your receiver is 20seconds out of level with your barrel and you align to it you'll probably never notice the "error".

GsT
Click to expand...

"and at airgun ranges it's very little." 

Seems "airgun ranges" lacks a little specificity and is progressively getting longer. My belief is that such such errors CAN BE important at air gun ranges. MORE important at longer ranges? Sure. But still important for "airguns" to varying degrees.
Click to expand...


Then I'll arbitrarily say "less than 300 yards" although these small errors probably won't really show at 500 yards either. 

GsT
 
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