Break Barrel v. Under Lever

I have one PCP and two CO2 rifles and am looking at getting a rifle that does not need an external air source. I only shoot in my yard, from 10 meters at paper targets, from the traditional 4 field positions and don't need power. I am looking at an R7 or HW50, but also at a Daisy Avanti with an under lever.

I see a number of differences, but strictly with regard to the action being break barrel v under lever what are the differences? 

I don't mean which one is more accurate, but with the handling and process of loading and shooting, why pick one over the other?

I have to order on line and have no place where I can actually handle one or see it in person so any personal opinions are welcome.
 
Everything being equal, underlevers tend to be heavier, but not always. Most are also a bit more difficult to load, specially in .177 due to the loading port/window. Then there’s the potential to get your finger amputated if the thing just shuts on you while you have your finger in there, although I personally have not heard of it happening. Some employ anti bear traps that make a ratcheting noise. 

Break barrels don’t suffer from the above, but can suffer from barrel droop. 

My favorite compromise is the locking break barrels like the LGV (I own 2) & the HW35. They use a positive locking mechanism that brings them close to underlever accuracy while affording you the ease of use of the standard break barrel. 

I wholeheatedly recommend the LGV master Pro in .177 12fpe, but it is a heavy gun. 
 
the daisy is light easy to use and will hit what you point it at, no special hold, no recoil but a person with big chubby fingers, they can be a little hard to load

any break barrel HW rifle in low power is going to be a great choice but any spring rifle, it will be a little more hold sensitive, will have some recoil but loading is very easy

of course your post sound like you were thinking the two rifle were both spring rifle, so there might be some confusion but it might just be on my part


 
I have an Avanti and a TX200 under lever they are completely different rifles, single stroke pneumatic vs spring. If you want a cheap accurate 10 meter paper puncher get the avanti, It is certainly far from a match grade rifle (stamped rough metal, sandpaper feeling hammer and sear), but it’s good for the money and can be worked to a better feel if you’re handy. The TX200 is the finest spring rifle in the known galaxy, and you will pay close to $800 fully outfitted but hey it’s just money 💰 and it weighs 10lbs.
 
I can only attest for the Hw30s. I have 2 of them. Easy to load, light ,handy and ridiculously accurate. At 10 yards they're capable of single hole 5 shot groups. They're not very hold sensitive as high power springers are. You won't be sorry. I have several rifles including powder burners and my Hw30s are my favorite. Just plain easy to use FUN! Any questions please feel free to ask me..

Edit: the only real issue with the Hw30 is if you have small hands the trigger is a bit of a stretch. Many people love the gun enough to replace the trigger blade with a set back one.
 
I have an Avanti 853 that I've worked over by opening it up, lubing the internals as well as polishing the trigger assembly contact points, and it does shoot with supreme accuracy. It is used in 3-position shooting competitions among many youth clubs and competitive leagues. It's been a successful training rifle for young shooters for decades. It is light, has adjustable stock inserts for proper sizing to the shooter, a mediocre trigger that can be made better, and good diopter sights. There are some excellent YouTube tutorials on the gun for maintenance and shooting technique. Compared to break barrels or other spring rifles, it is useless beyond 20 yards. At 10m, it cannot be excelled unless you spend hundreds of dollars more for a PCP rifle. My experience, for what it's worth.
 
The answer to the question of "Do I need an R7?" is always yes you need and R7. I shoot my R7 more than my other rifles combined.I have it set up with an aperture sight and can punch 10 meter paper targets in the house and can stretch it to about 30 yards on my field targets outside.

Amen brother. Love my Hw30s which are essentially the same as an R7. My favorite rifle by far. I can shoot milk bottle lids laying flat on the ground pretty consistently out to 40yds, and beer cans easily out to 50yds. So easy to cock I shoot for hours and never get tired. My first Hw30 only God knows how many rounds have gone through it. Counting empty tins it's over 5000 just this winter alone and the gun is 3 or 4 years old. The picture is 10 shot group in a 1" target shot outdoors with a 5mph cross wind. 
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I have decided to buy an R7. I want to put a rear aperture sight on it that will work with the factory front sight. The Chat guys at PA said to go with the Williams sight but it is not one I like. I would rather have a diopter like the Daisy Avanti rear sight. 

Anyone know of a rear aperture that will work on the current factory rifle?

C.M. Shooter, what did you mount on your R7?
 
I have both Daisy and Crosman apertures. I think I have the Crosman one on the R7 right now, either should work. You may not be able to reach the safety with you right thumb, I find it easier to switch off before lowering the rifle onto my support hand. The R7 doesn't seem to recoil enough to need the verticle stop pin on the older HW sights. If I come across one of the HW sights someday, I will get one though. 
 
slcercflyer,

The TX is a great rifle I have a few, But............it is not a Whiscombe ...which is the greatest underlever ever. And at a cost that most will not ever understand.

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I do prefer the under lever over the break barrel .

As the break barrel can limit scope choices. I shoot the Bushnell 4200 in 32x, the length of this scope interferes with breaking the action and loading pellets.

I shoot a lot of Field Target and the underlever rules most top places.

SJS

also consider a USED side lever FWB 300 Olympic rifles, really a gem of a rifle. shoots around 500~600fps