Picking brains and experience of more knowledgeable experienced shooters. Looking for recommendations one the purchase of the tool. I'll be using it on .177, .22 and .25. Many thanks John
bore sights for zeroing
- Thread starter john8
- Start date
IMHO, not needed. Shoot at short range, 10 yards or so. Adjust windage until pellets are directly in line with cross hair. Should be a bit low at 10y. Move to your zero yardage, and shoot for corrections.
My own guns are about 2" low at 10 yards, then on the spot at 40 yards.
My own guns are about 2" low at 10 yards, then on the spot at 40 yards.
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I do the same. Whenever I change my zero range, I immediately come inside and check the drop at 10 meters so I know where it should be for that zero range. My circumstances make it much easier to check zero (not change zero) inside than setting up targets outside.
I hope that made sense?
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I bought a laser bore sighter when I first got into this. It helped somewhat in, at least, getting the shots to hit paper to start. Haven't used it since because I have become more proficient in mounting scopes & zeroing in. If you'd like it you're welcome to it. Just pay shipping (should be negligible). PM me.
Gerry
Gerry
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I agree with everyone here. A bore sight might get you relatively close but so will 2 or 3 shots at 10 yards.
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Like others have stated just not necessary. Never found the need for them for PBs either. Most airguns I think it'd be more a pain than anything not really being able to remove a bolt and have decent room for a bore sight to even fit. Kinda overcomplicating a simple process.
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I have used them and greatly enjoy them. I try and find the one that sticks in the end of the barrel for airguns that work great. Will give you a basic idea on where you are shooting, but you still need to zero. I have the caliber specific for my powder rifles and they save a ton of money when you are talking over a $1 a shot
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Certainly nothing wrong with using them but it seems one would need to factor in the cost of the unit itself to compare to shooting for zeroing.
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Same but I use a cheap pic rail mounted laser afterwards to mount any scope afterwards when I decide to change to different one. Example
mount laser on.
look thru old zeroed scope at any short or long distance.
adjust laser dot to meet cross hairs of scope at that distance.
mount new scope
adjust crosshairs of new scope to laser dot at pervious distance above.
basically done, may need a little click here or there afterwards but it is very easy for changing scopes.
Allen
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You can also use the laser bore sight to verify reticle alignment. The laser dot should track on the vertical reticle as you point at targets at various distances (10yds to 30yds). If not, rotate the scope in the rings until it does.
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