I’m planning on receiving a scope that I had ordered tomorrow and I like to have everything as close to perfection as possible, what is your guys best way to level a scope
Best way to level a scope
- Thread starter bak2004
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I’ve tried several methods. I found this and it makes the most sense to me. It takes the probability of the rail not being perpendicular to the bore.
The small “V” sits on the barrel/shroud ant the large “V” rests on the objective bell.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-reticle-levelers/vertical-reticle-instrument-prod6097.aspx
I do mine indoors so I don’t have to deal with the plumbob moving in the wind.
The small “V” sits on the barrel/shroud ant the large “V” rests on the objective bell.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-reticle-levelers/vertical-reticle-instrument-prod6097.aspx
I do mine indoors so I don’t have to deal with the plumbob moving in the wind.
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Most scope mounting strategies that involve the use of levels or wedges are making a variety of assumptions about the perfectness of critical features of the gun, scope, and mounts. Granted, frequently these items are close enough that you’ll get a better result than by just eyeballing it, but it’s frustrating to see expensive “professional” jigs that will leave you with an improperly aligned scope if something isn’t perfect. For example, it’s not uncommon for the reticle to be rotated a couple of degrees relative to the turret caps, or for 3/8mm or 11mm rings to be offset slightly, or a variety of other issues.
What matters is that the reticle is aligned to the bore. The good news is it can be done with no special tools. All you need is a mirror.
But first let's establish that the requirements to eliminate cant error are:
1. Align the scope's reticle with the rifle's barrel.
2. Hold the reticle level when shooting.
Item 1 deals with scope cant…i.e. mounting the scope incorrectly.
Item 2 deals with gun cant…i.e. holding the gun incorrectly.
To correctly align the scope to the barrel, set up a mirror at a distance of, say, 5 yards and set your AO to 10 yards. Look through the scope at your reflection in the mirror. Twist the scope in the mounts until the vertical bar of the reticle simultaneously bisects both the muzzle and objective bell. Then lock it down. At this point you have eliminated scope cant (item 1). If it's hard to see your muzzle, add a little dot of White Out or take a dot from a hole punch and tape it to the muzzle with clear tape.
Now to eliminate rifle cant, install and use a level. View a known good plumb line (e.g. hanging string) through the scope and orient the rifle so it precisely aligns to it. Now affix your level so it shows level. From now on when you're shooting, hold the rifle so it shows level and you can be sure you've eliminated both potential sources of cant error.
By the way, don't buy a level that attaches to the scope rail. There is no guarantee it will show level. Instead, get one that attaches to the scope tube so you can rotate it and lock it down where it shows the proper level.
What matters is that the reticle is aligned to the bore. The good news is it can be done with no special tools. All you need is a mirror.
But first let's establish that the requirements to eliminate cant error are:
1. Align the scope's reticle with the rifle's barrel.
2. Hold the reticle level when shooting.
Item 1 deals with scope cant…i.e. mounting the scope incorrectly.
Item 2 deals with gun cant…i.e. holding the gun incorrectly.
To correctly align the scope to the barrel, set up a mirror at a distance of, say, 5 yards and set your AO to 10 yards. Look through the scope at your reflection in the mirror. Twist the scope in the mounts until the vertical bar of the reticle simultaneously bisects both the muzzle and objective bell. Then lock it down. At this point you have eliminated scope cant (item 1). If it's hard to see your muzzle, add a little dot of White Out or take a dot from a hole punch and tape it to the muzzle with clear tape.
Now to eliminate rifle cant, install and use a level. View a known good plumb line (e.g. hanging string) through the scope and orient the rifle so it precisely aligns to it. Now affix your level so it shows level. From now on when you're shooting, hold the rifle so it shows level and you can be sure you've eliminated both potential sources of cant error.
By the way, don't buy a level that attaches to the scope rail. There is no guarantee it will show level. Instead, get one that attaches to the scope tube so you can rotate it and lock it down where it shows the proper level.
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Best advice ive heard for mounting a scope, take a looking at Holland levels if you do go that route.
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I took the top rings off of my scope put a level on the top of the rings i adjusted the bipod so that it was as level as level could be then i mounted the scope and lined up with a fence post about 40 yards away that is level vertically and then started tightening up the scope and checking with each turn to make sure nothing moved
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Does the scope need to be optically centered before centering reticle to the bore? I assume that is the best starting point, but I don’t know much…….thanks
Scott
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Yes it’s a good idea to center the turrets beforehand. Thanks for the reminder.
Three common approaches for doing it:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=116903
Three common approaches for doing it:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=116903
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Thanks, I gave it a shot, no joy. I would have to turn the scope a ridiculous amount to align the bell to bore. I have a couple things working against me….I’m using extra high vortex rings, because I have severe cervical spine issues, and also, this is an Alpha 6 scope. The gun is a Crown mk2. I’m getting good groups at 55 yards. I did try reversing the mounts, with no significant change.
Scott
Scott
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Before anything, should optically center it, if possible. Then use adjustable mounts. Should use the turret clicks last.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/07/how-to-optically-center-a-scope/
https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/07/how-to-optically-center-a-scope/
https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
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I have one of those clamp on 1"/30mm bubble levels on just about every scope I own. Before I even put the scope on a gun, I put the scope in Vees and use a plumb-bob to get the bubble perfectly aligned to the crosshairs. Then I leave it there.
When I mount the scope or move it to another gun I know the bubble is already registered to the crosshairs.
I put a real 6" torpedo level across a rail on the gun and level the gun.
Once the gun is level I can then adjust the scope in its rings until the scope's bubble aligns with the level on the gun.
You don't even need to look through the scope. Just match the bubbles...
When I mount the scope or move it to another gun I know the bubble is already registered to the crosshairs.
I put a real 6" torpedo level across a rail on the gun and level the gun.
Once the gun is level I can then adjust the scope in its rings until the scope's bubble aligns with the level on the gun.
You don't even need to look through the scope. Just match the bubbles...
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But with this method you assume the rail is level with the gun. That is not always the case.
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I guess you're going to have to show me. What gun is so poorly machined that the rail is not square to the bore?
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Installing a scope based on a flat feature of the gun's action assumes:
1. The barrel is perfectly straight, and
2. the bore is centered within the barrel, and
3. the scope rail is precisely parallel to the receiver's mortise, and
4. the barrel-to-receiver interface has no lateral bias (a typical O-ringed barrel tenon secured with a grub screw through the top of the receiver will have some bias), and
5. the scope mounts are precisely centered above the rail, and
6. the reticle is clocked perfectly to the scope body/turrets, and
7. the barrel band (if present) isn't biasing the muzzle, and
8. the selected flat feature on the gun is perfectly perpendicular to all of the preceding items.
1. The barrel is perfectly straight, and
2. the bore is centered within the barrel, and
3. the scope rail is precisely parallel to the receiver's mortise, and
4. the barrel-to-receiver interface has no lateral bias (a typical O-ringed barrel tenon secured with a grub screw through the top of the receiver will have some bias), and
5. the scope mounts are precisely centered above the rail, and
6. the reticle is clocked perfectly to the scope body/turrets, and
7. the barrel band (if present) isn't biasing the muzzle, and
8. the selected flat feature on the gun is perfectly perpendicular to all of the preceding items.
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I have a Taipan Veteran that the rail doesn't match the flat of the action block. Which is true....who knows??
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Interesting discussion. Having been in manufacturing, both high and low volume my whole working career, variance, tolerances and just parts that were snuck through is a fact of life. So with the multitude of components between the rifles assembly, the scopes assembly and allowable tolerance in scope ring and the scope rail you have a ton of possibility for error. Some could cancel each other out, some could accumulate and make it worse.
I would like to just minimize the shift in windage when going from say 15 yards to maybe fifty yards so I can just get away with just an elevation adjustment or a vertical only holdover rather than both elevation and windage.
I like tinkering so I’ll dive in and try anything in an effort to correct it.
Thanks all for your input, I learned some good stuff here.
There’s still plenty of variables between pellets, gun regulator repeatability, environmental factors etc. to drive me crazy.
Randy
I would like to just minimize the shift in windage when going from say 15 yards to maybe fifty yards so I can just get away with just an elevation adjustment or a vertical only holdover rather than both elevation and windage.
I like tinkering so I’ll dive in and try anything in an effort to correct it.
Thanks all for your input, I learned some good stuff here.
There’s still plenty of variables between pellets, gun regulator repeatability, environmental factors etc. to drive me crazy.
Randy
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Lots of good info here. Reference # 5 for scope installing.
Parallax links & scope info:
Parallax links & scope info:
- How to Eliminate Parallax in a Riflescope (gunsandammo.com)
- Parallax Adjustment for Scopes: Complete Beginner’s Guide (shootingmystery.com)
- Parallax Adjustment – 2021 Guide on Understanding and Correcting Parallax - Gun Mann
- RimfireCentral.com Forums - View Single Post - Derivation of Parallax Equation
- The Scope, Sights, & Mounts Super-Sticky (questions? try here!) - RimfireCentral.com Forums
- Rifle Scope Objective Lens Diameter Guide: Choose The Best Size (targettamers.com)
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