Best taps and dies for airgun work.

Hey guys I have a few projects that will require taps and dies. I was warned not to buy a complete set because the quality of the metal would be lacking. Specifically they said craftsman, kobalt store brands would suck. Anyway I forget what brand the guy told me to buy. What brands would you guys use and price is no object because I plan on just buying the tap and die I need and building my collection as I have a need. Thanks I would hate to try to tap my rifle and cause damage or do a sub par job. 
 
The first big box store " 20 pc set" I purchased did not have a single size useable tap for airguns in over 20 years! Airguns use fine and extra fine threads sae and metric. So I buy taps from McMaster-Carr as needed. I do recommend you buy the 3 tap set that has 3 styles needed for that one particular size. "Screw up" one hole on a $1K airgun and you will never pinch pennies there again.

I could not live without the Brownells Screw Chek'r metric and sae .https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/measuring-tools/thread-pitch-gauges/screw-chek-r-prod775.aspx

You will also find a set of thread pitch gauges indispensable too.
 
As with anything, you get what you pay for. I worked as a machinist for over 18 years and have pretty much used it all from low end to very high end equipment.

First rule of using a tap or die is to ALWAYS use tapping fluid or oil to help wash out the chips and go SLOW backing out when the pressure gets to tight.

Any tap or die should get the job done but a good tool will last you longer and provide you many more years of service. If you just have a few holes to tap a cheaper tap should do, but if you have a thousand holes to tap, I'd go with someone like Travers.

*Helpful Tip!* If you have a broken bolt or screw that you're trying to get out, a "left-handed" drill chucked up and ran in reverse (counterclockwise) slowly and held in center of the screw will eventually bite into the screw and unscrew it for you! Just make sure that the left-handed drill you're using is smaller that the threads that are in the receiving piece and use some oil to prolong the life of the drill.

Oh, and always wear your safety glasses!
 
I always bought my taps by the dozen from Brownells. When I would install sights or have to drill and tap a hole on a rifle I would use a new tap and after job was done I would throw away the tap. If you have ever broken off a tap in a rifle because it wasn't sharp you know how much time and effort you will spend getting it out. Use them a few times and use a lot of tapping fluid.
 
I believe the guy said craftsman is ok for once or twice on sofyer steels but that on harder surfaces they are only good for chasing the threads? I am assuming that means cleaning up existing threads. Anyway I never thought of getting a cheaper set and using it once or twice and throwing it away. Thats interesting to me. I do alot of work on bicycles and I have used my dads craftsman set but aluminum is a different animal than steel and as one of you said messing up a 1k$ gun will make you stop buying cheap stuff. As for brownells I know they are a good shop but that dont mean everything they sell is awsome. I bought a wheeler hex and star key set for 88 bucks that is absolutely garbage. Some are bent some litterally have different sizes from the long end and short end and they are overall crap. I am sure brownells will take it back but just saying. 
 
I have always bought Hanson taps and dies they are made in USA. I would also recommend you get 3 flute taps. there are 3 types Starter,Taper and Bottom tap. If you are starting to put together a small air gun tap and die kit you should get some broken tap extractors. Walton company makes them. I get them from Brownells they have 2,3 and 4 finger extractors. You can buy extra fingers for them.

You think you may never need them but when you do you will be so glad you do.
 
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Wow! What a question. First Brian;s answer is correct. Buy quality. the next is your context. Taps for airguns has no meaning. The real question is what kind of investment are you prepared to make? I have thousands invested in taps of all flavors. Are you prepared for the cost of complete sets in multiple families? If not, identify the exact sizes and flavor and buy only those. That would not be my solution, but if only a few sizes are needed, perhaps that;s the best for you. Keep in mind that taps and dies are a consumable. They break, and they wear out.under use. Please also note that in most cases an individual thread size will require 3 different tap styles.and these styles come in European systems and American systems. The European system is progressive in that each tap cuts a bit deeper reducing the tap load. The American system uses different start tapers, but all 3 taps in a set will cut full depth at the end.. Depending on the air gun, the thread family may be Metric or SAE. In those cases the thread form is an included angle of 60 degrees. Most high pressure fittings will be British BSPP or BSPT (British Standard Pipe Parallel or Tapered), These thread families use a 55 degree thread form, Again, there are exceptions to everything and some high pressure fittings are NPT (National Pipe Tapered (60 degree thread form)). The standard taper for all tapered pipes is 3/4" per foot and when tapping, you should use a tapered reamer first to establish the taper before threading. Please also note that threads are identified by major diameter and then pitch. The American method of pitch is the number threads per inch of travel. The Metric method is distance traveled in mm per revolution. Of course pipe is the exception where the specified diameter is of the typical internal diameter of the pipe. One more additional note, all tapered pipe threads seal on the thread. All parallel pipe threads seal on a separate internal or external seal, not on the threads. I apologize for being a bit verbose, but your query indicated a lack of thread knowledge. The subject is a lot more complex than the brief description above, but Google is your friend.
 
I believe the guy said craftsman is ok for once or twice on sofyer steels but that on harder surfaces they are only good for chasing the threads? I am assuming that means cleaning up existing threads. Anyway I never thought of getting a cheaper set and using it once or twice and throwing it away. Thats interesting to me. I do alot of work on bicycles and I have used my dads craftsman set but aluminum is a different animal than steel and as one of you said messing up a 1k$ gun will make you stop buying cheap stuff. As for brownells I know they are a good shop but that dont mean everything they sell is awsome. I bought a wheeler hex and star key set for 88 bucks that is absolutely garbage. Some are bent some litterally have different sizes from the long end and short end and they are overall crap. I am sure brownells will take it back but just saying.

That's why "quality" was stated. The older Craftsman tools were excellent and Sears stood by their stuff-anything broken was replaced with no questions asked. The newer stuff probably not so much and Sears is gone now anyway. But "what the guy said" is just one opinion, maybe valid and maybe not-seems he was trying to sell you something. The Craftsman full set I have has worked well, as noted, for a long time (since the early 70's) and I never (or very rarely) need to look for a tap when I need one. But I'm not a machinist and never have done high volume manufacturing type work with it. Buying individual taps for just the size needed should serve one fine for airguns.
 
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I really appreciate all the knowledge. Steve is correct i lack thread knowledge. I do know however that most my needs will be met with a 1/2 in unf tap for ldc barrels and I was going to find the strongest screws available at mcmaster carr for securing valves and or bottle conversions and match that tap. Maybe taps for common picatinny rail screws for adding rails to recievers for now. I really didnt need all that info because all i really wanted to know was a top end brand. I care less about a set because I really dont need more than a few and the likelyhood that a set would have all the parts i need is slim anyway. I care more about a clean and perfect cut than saving pennies. I stress out thinking about using store brand tools on a 1000 dollar gun that ive worked for 2 years to get. I can most definitely find out what threads i need etc. I just wanted to make sure i purchased the best. Thanks tho I really appreciate the info. Always glad to hear your opinions on things I want to learn. 
 
I am a huge fan of OSG and Widia cutting tools. They both make fine taps. Their helix spiral flute taps, gun taps and form taps have served me well. Instead of buying a set, buy for the threads you need as well as the cutting conditions such as material, through holes and blind holes. Gun taps push the chips forward and works great for through holes while helix spiral taps extract the chips out the top of the hole which makes it a great choice for blind holes.
 
I believe the guy said craftsman is ok for once or twice on sofyer steels but that on harder surfaces they are only good for chasing the threads? I am assuming that means cleaning up existing threads. Anyway I never thought of getting a cheaper set and using it once or twice and throwing it away. Thats interesting to me. I do alot of work on bicycles and I have used my dads craftsman set but aluminum is a different animal than steel and as one of you said messing up a 1k$ gun will make you stop buying cheap stuff. As for brownells I know they are a good shop but that dont mean everything they sell is awsome. I bought a wheeler hex and star key set for 88 bucks that is absolutely garbage. Some are bent some litterally have different sizes from the long end and short end and they are overall crap. I am sure brownells will take it back but just saying.

That's why "quality" was stated. The older Craftsman tools were excellent and Sears stood by their stuff-anything broken was replaced with no questions asked. The newer stuff probably not so much and Sears is gone now anyway. But "what the guy said" is just one opinion, maybe valid and maybe not-seems he was trying to sell you something. The Craftsman full set I have has worked well, as noted, for a long time (since the early 70's) and I never (or very rarely) need to look for a tap when I need one. But I'm not a machinist and never have done high volume manufacturing type work with it. Buying individual taps for just the size needed should serve one fine for airguns.

My Craftsman set is old (Sears) as well, I inherited it along with all the rest of my grandfathers tool collection. Good point about old vs. new and the difference in quality.

I also agree with the others here and would follow their advice. If you're going to be using the tools on expensive airguns you might as well invest in quality stuff.