Benjamin Discovery parts on a 2400KT?

Just wondering if it's as simple as buying the following parts and I'll be able to bulk fill CO2 and use HPA on my 2400KT:



https://www.bakerairguns.com/product/hpa-tube-for-benjamin-discovery/

https://www.archerairguns.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=discoveryfilladapter1761%2D101&CartID=1

https://www.archerairguns.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=discoveryvalve%2D1761A100&CartID=2



I guess actually I have to deal with the gauge port too? So, could I in theory just get the value and fill adaptor without the tube and pin the value in the 2400KT and be done with it?



Sorry for the questions, I have never owned one and don't have mine yet and I'm a hands on person so it's hard to picture how the parts got together. I'm more concerned about shot count than FPS and in fact would like to get around 450fps with the .22 and 18" barrel.
 
Well, I just got off the phone with Crosman and they're AWESOME to deal with on the parts front! Wow, I'm really, really impressed with them! Here's what I got:



M-Rod forearm - $5

Forearm screws - $1

2260 Barrel band - $3

Barrel band screws - $1

Discovery Valve - $14

Discovery fill port - $13

Fill port cap - $9

Pin screws - $1

2260 Tube - $9



All and all the total was $65 shipped so for $155 total I should end up with a great looking 2400KT with bulk filling, extra capacity, and the m-rod forearm which looks great along with the 18" barrel!


 
Well, you will still need a gauge block, gauge, and gauge fitting to cover that big hole in the Disco tube. Or you'll need to fab a suitable o ringed bridge. Also going to need at least four o rings, six if you order the gauge stuff. And the Disco uses three 8/32 valve anchor screws (pin) encase you ordered only one.


I got the 2260 tube to avoid that issue and I think the disco tube is too long anyway. I did order two of the screws thinking the third would be the one from my 2400KT but I could be wrong about that one working as the third. The value doesn't come with the o-rings? Any time I see it listed for sale they're on it?



Thanks for the response, that was helpful potential missteps.
 
O K..no the 22xx co2 valve has one single 6/40 anchor screw where as the Disco uses three 8/32's. I haven't ordered a complete valve in quite a while so not sure if it will come with the o rings. The other thing I would have advised is using the fill end assembly for a P'rod as it is shorter and takes up less volume in the tube, as the 2400 tube is fairly short on volume to start with. Just be careful when you index the tube for the other two anchor screws as they need to be pretty much dead on to do their job. I think you'll be happy with the results you will get from bulk filling. You'll be able to lighten up the striker, and back off on the spring and probably get the same speeds as before since you no longer need to use the striker,spring and valve stem for a battering ram to puncture the 12g's. Another + to getting those other two anchor screws indexed right is in cold weather you could fill it with a pump and use it as a PCP ...a note here, without upgrading the Crosman anchor screws to stronger ones stay at 2K psi or less. Again, because of the short tube volume you won't get many shots from an air fill as you will from co2.
 
O K..no the 22xx co2 valve has one single 6/40 anchor screw where as the Disco uses three 8/32's. I haven't ordered a complete valve in quite a while so not sure if it will come with the o rings. The other thing I would have advised is using the fill end assembly for a P'rod as it is shorter and takes up less volume in the tube, as the 2400 tube is fairly short on volume to start with. Just be careful when you index the tube for the other two anchor screws as they need to be pretty much dead on to do their job. I think you'll be happy with the results you will get from bulk filling. You'll be able to lighten up the striker, and back off on the spring and probably get the same speeds as before since you no longer need to use the striker,spring and valve stem for a battering ram to puncture the 12g's. Another + to getting those other two anchor screws indexed right is in cold weather you could fill it with a pump and use it as a PCP ...a note here, without upgrading the Crosman anchor screws to stronger ones stay at 2K psi or less. Again, because of the short tube volume you won't get many shots from an air fill as you will from co2.


Well, I can always order the one from the p-rod as it sounds like at the very least I'll need an additional screw. I think, I hope, I'll be happy with it like this, if I can get 100 shots out of it I've be super happy about that. I may even call and order the parts needed to ass the gauge as that would be really nice to have. With this mod, it will pay for itself at about 3,500 pellets so it's well worth it to me. 



For the anchor screws, I'm at a slight loss for how to get them dead on but have a few thoughts and ideas. I would welcome any tips for sure! And I will never HPA it, I have my PCPs for that.



Thank you so much for your help on this project!
 
But you forgot the spring Steve suggested. And certainly no need for any air gauge.



John


The 2400 hammer spring? I'll already have that since I'm starting with the 2400 but thanks for the mention as I may have overlooked it if I'd had multiple springs. I'm also running CO2 (so no HPA or 1,800psi fills) and mainly going for shot count here with the following goal:

1) 100 shots per fill

2) 450 fps with 14g .22 pellets



That should give me 6fpe roughly and leave me good to about 20 yards which is my goal with this gun. I have a gun for out to 100 yards and I'm going to focus on the CP1R I just bought as a 10yard gun.



My main goal for the 2400 is as a great all around paper puncher that would function well for pesting. 
 
But you forgot the spring Steve suggested. And certainly no need for any air gauge.



John


The 2400 hammer spring? I'll already have that since I'm starting with the 2400 but thanks for the mention as I may have overlooked it if I'd had multiple springs. I'm also running CO2 (so no HPA or 1,800psi fills) and mainly going for shot count here with the following goal:

1) 100 shots per fill

2) 450 fps with 14g .22 pellets



That should give me 6fpe roughly and leave me good to about 20 yards which is my goal with this gun. I have a gun for out to 100 yards and I'm going to focus on the CP1R I just bought as a 10yard gun.



My main goal for the 2400 is as a great all around paper puncher that would function well for pesting.

Enlarge the valve retention screw hole on your 2260 tube so that the 8-32 screw head just will fit. Now take your disco valve apart - it should unscrew by hand - insert the back half of the valve into your 2260 tube and secure it with your 8-32 screw.

Now, instead of trying to perfectly measure the 9 and 3 o'clock positions of the screw holes on the Discovery valve, and hoping it works, index a new pilot hole position at 10 and 2 o-clock. Using a drill press, carefully drill pilot holes in your tube and into the valve. Now you can enlarge and dress the holes in your tube and tap your valve for the 8x32 screws.

I've used this method several times, it works like a charm, the only downside is the tube and valve are now "married" so to speak -
 
O K..no the 22xx co2 valve has one single 6/40 anchor screw where as the Disco uses three 8/32's. I haven't ordered a complete valve in quite a while so not sure if it will come with the o rings. The other thing I would have advised is using the fill end assembly for a P'rod as it is shorter and takes up less volume in the tube, as the 2400 tube is fairly short on volume to start with. Just be careful when you index the tube for the other two anchor screws as they need to be pretty much dead on to do their job. I think you'll be happy with the results you will get from bulk filling. You'll be able to lighten up the striker, and back off on the spring and probably get the same speeds as before since you no longer need to use the striker,spring and valve stem for a battering ram to puncture the 12g's. Another + to getting those other two anchor screws indexed right is in cold weather you could fill it with a pump and use it as a PCP ...a note here, without upgrading the Crosman anchor screws to stronger ones stay at 2K psi or less. Again, because of the short tube volume you won't get many shots from an air fill as you will from co2.


Well, I can always order the one from the p-rod as it sounds like at the very least I'll need an additional screw. I think, I hope, I'll be happy with it like this, if I can get 100 shots out of it I've be super happy about that. I may even call and order the parts needed to ass the gauge as that would be really nice to have. With this mod, it will pay for itself at about 3,500 pellets so it's well worth it to me. 



For the anchor screws, I'm at a slight loss for how to get them dead on but have a few thoughts and ideas. I would welcome any tips for sure! And I will never HPA it, I have my PCPs for that.



Thank you so much for your help on this project!


Sorry, on my earlier post I advised about a gauge hole in the tube...I must have been sleeping.....I was thinking you were starting with a Disco tube. You won't have to deal with that with a 2260 tube. If you want to reach for that 100 shot count your best bet will be to get a lighter striker, and for sure I'd get a power adjuster (striker spring adjuster) However, my thinking is if you are diligent with all your modifications you will end up with a shot count possibly in the 70's unless you greatly reduce power.

P'rod valve anchor screws are the ones to use. They will fit the bottom of both of the tubes you have. I'd avoid using the Disco oval head screw if possible. As another poster mentioned, you can re-clock the additional two valve anchor screws and drill where you choose, the downside is if in the future you need to replace the valve you will be hard pressed to get a good match drilling and tapping the replacement valve. Also in addition to the drilling and tapping the valve there are small flats milled in the valve to get a good seat to the anchor screw heads these flats help to increase the shear load of the screw heads. There are a few instructional vid's on locating the side holes. I think Mike T (TKO) has one.
 
You two are incredibly helpful to say the least so thank you for that! I guess my question is, on my next order what parts should I be getting? Sounds like three of the m-rod screws to use instead of the disco screws. Should I use something other than the disco valve since it has holes in the wrong position? I guess anything with seals on the value will have additional screw holes to contend with. Is there a better tube to use than the 2260 on a 2400kt with an 18" barrel? I was trying to get something with the most volume and least effort (like a cut down disco tube and having to thread the front). 



I'm open to any advice here and don't mind having the spare parts floating around anyway. I don't understand why anybody would use some of the aftermarket alternatives when the Crosman parts are so interchangeable that you can Franken any variation together.
 
Stay with the Disco valve, P'rod fill end, and three P'rod valve anchor screws. Any of the valves for your purpose come with the anchor screws @ 3-6-9 o'clock so the hardest part of your homework will be getting those two additional screw holes drilled where they belong and sized to fit the P'rod screw head size closely. If you are not up to doing the extra screw holes reach out to Mike @ TKO or Roy @ Mountain Air I'm sure that one of them could help. If you hadden't already sourced the 2260 tube from Crosman I THINK that Magnum air?? sells tubes with the holes already done.

Almost forgot, add a second barrel band right in front of the breech if you want repeatable POI's.