Benjamin A.C.K. question ( Akela-Cayden-Kratos )

Has anyone else had any issues with the valve at the fill port not closing when you recharge the tank? I have the Kratos and it will keep dumping psi when the fill hose is attached after refilling , I have to pop the coupler off with needle nose pliers while it's dumping from the psi relief valve on the compressor. After the coupler is removed - no more leak. 
 
Stop! TAKING THINGS APART IS THE LAST RESORT.

It's called degassing the gun completely before attempting to remove the make fill nipple ONLY IF THAT'S THE CHECK VALVE ON THE GUN.

You probably can't safely unscrew the bottle under pressure because that gun doesn't have a valve in the bottle that seals itself like an FX for example.

Try filling it right now as usual and just quickly unscrew the bleed valve it should quickly stop. 

Degass (or shoot it all the way to zero air) and remove the male foster on the gun only if the quick bleed suggestion doesn't work.

Let us know how it goes.
 
Stop! TAKING THINGS APART IS THE LAST RESORT.

It's called degassing the gun completely before attempting to remove the make fill nipple ONLY IF THAT'S THE CHECK VALVE ON THE GUN.

You probably can't safely unscrew the bottle under pressure because that gun doesn't have a valve in the bottle that seals itself like an FX for example.

Try filling it right now as usual and just quickly unscrew the bleed valve it should quickly stop. 

Degass (or shoot it all the way to zero air) and remove the male foster on the gun only if the quick bleed suggestion doesn't work.

Let us know how it goes.

Don't worry, I'm a "if it ain't broke-don't fix it" kind of guy. I just wanted to know if it might be an operator interface error.
 
Has anyone else had any issues with the valve at the fill port not closing when you recharge the tank? I have the Kratos and it will keep dumping psi when the fill hose is attached after refilling , I have to pop the coupler off with needle nose pliers while it's dumping from the psi relief valve on the compressor. After the coupler is removed - no more leak.


Confused with "psi relief valve" you mention. Do you have a inline bleed valve..?



Fill Valves work on pressure differential. The greater the differential the faster and harder the valve closes. So slowly opening the bleed valve, or having a low volume bleed valve allows the pressures to equalize between the guns tank and fill station not (quickly) tripping the valve to close. A fast depressurization of the fill hose, before the guns tank can 'equalize' will snap shut the valve.

For those of us with a thumb screw bleed valve, (not a push button bleeder) a modification can help the bleeder have higher volume to snap shut the fill valve quicker for less air loss. Remove the thumb screw and take off the o-ring/washer/etc, mark the area right below the sealing washer/o-ring. Basically you just want to remove the threads in a very small area to allow the air to rush out easier once the thumb screw is loosened. Choose a very small drill bit to make a dimple, you're just using the very tip of the bit, should not be deeper than .0030". drill a slight dimple right below the sealing area Then use the thinnest dremel cutoff wheel at a slight angle and continue a very narrow shallow cut thru the threads down to the bottom of thumb screw threads connecting the drilled dimple to allow a larger air pathway to escape faster. Key is to get the dimple as close to the sealing area of the thumb screw as possible (without damaging the sealing area) so it exposes the dimple when the screw is turned/opened just a 1/4-1/2 turn. The sealing is not done in the threads, thats the o-rings job...

Do this at your own risk.

jmo