benjamin .25 marauder slice and dice....b-rod

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Where with .161 hole the larger bolt OD is right on the back edge of the barrel port and the probe nose puts the pellet skirt just on the forward edge of the port. All I am going to do next is narrow the bolt probe nose about 25% to reduce the restriction as the gas flows up around the probe and angles forward. Free power in freer flow.
So have read all above posts and still not sure what goal you are going for... FPE?, small ES strings? Or just a lot of shots?
 
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kinetic, all them reasons look good, but my main idea was to get more shots.....the stock gun has a 3000psi 215 cc, and the bottle has 3600psi 480 cc bottle. like I said I am new to this stuff, but in my mind I should get more good consistent shots. as of now I'm waiting to fill my scba tank and test the shot count out. I have read some were that the gun needs to breath better thru the ports....so if I got more fps, that's a bonus. peace, randy.
 
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And that is why I have two Marauders (and a dozen other airguns!)
One to get lots of shots for range practice and such
and a second set up for a few shots at power for hunting. And carry a small CF 4500 bottle in a fanny pack to refill as necessary... but real world in the woods I seldom ever do. Eight rabbits, squirrel or quail a day is enough. Or one hog!

Unfortunately because of physics there is some overlap between shots and power but not possible to have complete unity on that... it's all about the compromise.
Some will claim their setup in hardware and tune is perfect but in reality that is just 'perfect for them' and may not be suitable for another at all.

I hunt and want a light a rifle as possible because it is less fatiguing and more portable. I want accuracy and enough power to humanly take down game within the limitations of the airgun genre. Air guns will always be weaker than Powder Burners, I am converting my WARP over to a dedicated 50gr slug gun to try to get close to 22 rimfire FPE and to PB shooters I should not be hunting anything at all because they don't see a 22LR as good for much beyond plinking. And so I have to up my skills in shooting and tracking to compensate for the pneumatic guns deficits because that is what I have to work with.

A bottle gun, of which I have 4 by the way, is just too much weight and bulk to carry for 5 or 6 miles of woods walking, up and down gullys and ridges. But if I am not doing that, if I am driving right up to where I am hunting and not having to carry a lot of gear, then I will take a bottle gun.
Compromise and practicality. Something to always consider in your airgun journey.
 
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"Kinetic45"And that is why I have two Marauders (and a dozen other airguns!)
One to get lots of shots for range practice and such
and a second set up for a few shots at power for hunting. And carry a small CF 4500 bottle in a fanny pack to refill as necessary... but real world in the woods I seldom ever do. Eight rabbits, squirrel or quail a day is enough. Or one hog!
Unfortunately because of physics there is some overlap between shots and power but not possible to have complete unity on that... it's all about the compromise.
Some will claim their setup in hardware and tune is perfect but in reality that is just 'perfect for them' and may not be suitable for another at all.
I hunt and want a light a rifle as possible because it is less fatiguing and more portable. I want accuracy and enough power to humanly take down game within the limitations of the airgun genre. Air guns will always be weaker than Powder Burners, I am converting my WARP over to a dedicated 50gr slug gun to try to get close to 22 rimfire FPE and to PB shooters I should not be hunting anything at all because they don't see a 22LR as good for much beyond plinking. And so I have to up my skills in shooting and tracking to compensate for the pneumatic guns deficits because that is what I have to work with.
A bottle gun, of which I have 4 by the way, is just too much weight and bulk to carry for 5 or 6 miles of woods walking, up and down gullys and ridges. But if I am not doing that, if I am driving right up to where I am hunting and not having to carry a lot of gear, then I will take a bottle gun.
Compromise and practicality. Something to always consider in your airgun journey.

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Not sure I understand the rational behind this. Why not go out and get a $300 Ruger 10/22 that weights 6lbs and is 34" long? Then ammo that is $.07 each. No worries about carrying a bottle. Instead you are carrying a 7-8lb ($1800) gun (that needs it's own or additional air supply) shooting slugs that are like $.20 each? with less energy.

If you want a low power, quiet gun to take small game get an air rifle. Why some guys try to make an air rifle into a power burner is beyond me.
 
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yea big tin boat, that's exactly how I think about it....if I want to shoot a powerfull gun, I would just use my brothers .300 weatherby mag. the only reason I got this bb-gun was to recapture the one I had when I was a youth.....long ago, lols. I remember my father shot a ruffed grouse with my daisy, the one ya poured in like 200 bb's in the end. the grouse was about 20 feet away about 5 feet up sitting in a tree....pop one shot in the head....he jumped out of the car thru 3 feet of upper Michigan snow to fetch, it was kinda floppin but he got it. even as that happened over 55 years ago, its in my mind like it was yesterday. I always wanted to get another bb gun before I pass.... my bottle mod is set up to shoot at 850 fps with the jsb 25 gr. all I wanted is to be able to shoot it more with less filling. this pcp stuff is really putting a hurt on my retirement wallet.....im kinda thinkin now I should of got another daisy, lols. one thing I do very much value all the fellas that helped me with my new, very old hobby. peace, randy. 
 
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Here's what I did with JDS and Talon parts. If you keep shooting jsb 25 gr's, you can get a ton of shots with this combination with some modifications. Mine only needs something like 1200-1300psi to push 25gr jsb's to 850fps. I built mine to shoot 34gr jsb's and 850fps happens at 1600-1650psi. For now, it's not finished yet.
 
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finally tested the shot count....I think I'm happy now, I can shoot a lil now instead of spending more time filling. @840 fps, I'm getting 48 shots with the 3600psi starting pressure down to 2200psi end pressure. the bottle is regulated to 2000psi, so I could get more shots. I stopped short, to make sure I got a solid 48 full power shots. I shot kinda fast because I was just testing the count. now I cant wait for the weather to break, so I can get outdoors. man, I'm to old for this cold, lols.

48 shot group @10yds.
pFES0fW.jpg
 
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"rjarois"finally tested the shot count....I think I'm happy now, I can shoot a lil now instead of spending more time filling. @840 fps, I'm getting 48 shots with the 3600psi starting pressure down to 2200psi end pressure. the bottle is regulated to 2000psi, so I could get more shots. I stopped short, to make sure I got a solid 48 full power shots. I shot kinda fast because I was just testing the count. now I cant wait for the weather to break, so I can get outdoors. man, I'm to old for this cold, lols.
48 shot group @10yds.

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You have WAY too much hammer preload, or something else is wrong. This equates to an efficiency of .68fpe/cuin. You should be getting almost double that shot count. Back off on the hammer until you start to see a decrease in velocity and then just increase it slightly.
 
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"rjarois"big tin boat, I have the super hammer and the twin spring in it....I am first to say I do not know anything about the tuning of these components. it maybe better to go back to stock hammer and spring? any input from the smart fellas here, I sure will listen. randy.
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back out the adjuster for the springs until you have a "gap". You want space between the hammer - spring and end cap when un-cocked. If the twin spring was made correctly you should be able to have this "zero preload" condition and still get your desired velocity.

I've gotten 1.4fpe/cuin out of MRods with stock hammers and springs, never felt the need to spend unnecessary $$.
 
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"crusher75060"Actually, OldPro is here. I've seen him a few times. Yep, he is definitely the Go TO guy for Marauder tuning.
Crusher

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He's here? After what he says about this site and the owner when he posts on other sites? Sounds like one h3ll of a guy......

Posted by Oldpro:
"Funny that he would imply that he used custom code then try to convince his members it was true. It just shows you what type of guy Mr Wendt is. I would have renamed this site FXnation just to piss him off. LOL. Hes obviously not all there and I can list a dozen people just from memory hes banned for not agreeing with him. Yes all forums have their own rules but when you start deleting members because they have a different point of view then yours well thats just about as dumb as it gets."
 
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I was never aware of any problems between Michael and Travis. Personally I have good dealings with both. What I was saying in my initial post about using Oldpros knowledge and experience to help in reaching your goal of having a Marauder that can compete with the premium priced rifles that are available. Oldpro has always been willing to share his knowledge and experience which has allowed me to make a good shooter out of a low priced PCP that’s made in the USA.
 
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Hi
I reading a thread at another site about JDS and there was some worry about the adapter strenght, with only 2 unknown screws holding the adapter in the tube. If the reg failed and creaped up, or dumped 4500 lb air in to the tube it could fail at the poppet and fire down the the barrel, or push the adapter out the end. From what poster was saying the regulators JDS uses is junk low bidder from china. After reading that post, I would spend the money for a WAR adapter like the ones used on the flex air guns. I think Travis is also offering the adapters and they fit the ninja regs. Just saying what I read. Bob, Travis and some other very knowageble tuners was also on that thread talking about the quality and metal fatige isues with only 2 bolts holding that adapter in. Somthing to think about.
CH
 
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