Barrel bending

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josh3rd

josh3rd

Member
Apr 2, 2015
954
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Newark, Delaware, United States
Hey when any of you have bent your barrel purposely to bring it close towards your POI from where your scope is mechanically centered, or whatever, do you remove it from the rifle totally or leave it attached to the rifle.?



And if leaving it attached, I usually put the front end into my trailer hitch and right where the barrel meets the breech block is where I would place my other hand to try to manipulate the barrel bend. At no time do I put my hands on the action or stock in order to try the bend the barrel but I'm asking is the way I have done it you guys feel that it's problematic in the long run? I hope this makes sense much appreciated
 
The risk I see is while correcting one problem you may cause another. When you bend the barrel there is a chance the cross sectional dimension is changed from a circle to an oval which would affect the passage of the pellet thru the bore of the barrel. So unless the bend can be gradually accomplished or is very slight probably not a good idea? 
 
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If I'm understanding your approach correctly, it sounds sensible. In other words, make every effort to apply forces only to the barrel itself...not to the breech block, pivot pin, stock, etc.

The way I usually do it is clamp the barrel to my bench vise near the breech block and then use both hands out near the muzzle to apply force in the direction needed, using either a jerk or shove type motion.
 
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Correct brother in your first paragraph. And in your second paragraph I think that that is the way I should do it. Meaning clamp the barrel closer to the breach block and apply forces to the muzzle tip end. The only thing I need now is a bench and vice. 



I tried the way with the eye screw where they took the barrel through with a piece of leather on it and then use a clamp meaning of c clamp and all that but I found the fastest way is to my trailer hitch but I wish I could do it your way
 
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I have straightened barrels with them both on and off of the gun with near perfect results results both ways. Although I prefer to chuck it up in the mini-lathe and whack it with a dead blow hammer. You need to pay attention to where the bend is and do the bending there whether it is near the breech or otherwise. Where it is bent will also dictate whether you remove the barrel or leave it on to straighten it. 
 
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I always just remove the barrel and get the breech block in my vise. Takes just a few minutes of work, but I can do a little better job of making sure it goes only the direction I want it to go. Also helps make sure the bend is gradual. But then again, these are such slight adjustments that the bend is hardly noticeable. It shouldn't look like a bent drink straw :)

The gun brand and the steel they use also makes it necessary to remove the barrel. A Feinwerkbau 124 or an FWB300 takes a LOT of force to move. Weihrauch and Diana haven't required as much persuasion. And hammer forged barrels (BSA, CZ) I do in a press. 
 
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I would be hesitant to attempt barrel bending, but it certainly can be done successfully.

Believe it or not, this is an actual target pistol.

FWB Pistol with bent barrel.1640530956.jpg


I have heard this was an advertising piece. I have also heard that it was done to have a longer barrel while keeping the over all length to a specific dimension. Both of the articles I had seen described the pistol as very accurate. I can't find either anymore.
 
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I would be hesitant to attempt barrel bending, but it certainly can be done successfully.

Believe it or not, this is an actual target pistol.

FWB Pistol with bent barrel.1640530956.jpg
//www.w3.org/2000/svg%22%20viewBox=%220%200%20210%20140%22%3E%3C/svg%3E

I have heard this was an advertising piece. I have also heard that it was done to have a longer barrel while keeping the over all length to a specific dimension. Both of the articles I had seen described the pistol as very accurate. I can't find either anymore.
Click to expand...

I always wanted to do that but have never got a round to it as yet. Someday though. ;^)
 
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Done many over the years with great sucess.. I had the priviledge of working in a machine shop with a large surface place ( precision flat table) I could carefully control how much bend I made. In some cases I actually calculated the amount the barrel needed to bend and controled the amount. If possible I removed the barrel for better control but in some cases used the whole rifle for leverage. Just go a little at a time and you will be fine. Over the years I have saw people use the crotch in a tree, fence posts, chain link fences, trailer hitches, you name it and most seem to work if you go slow and take it easy.. Worse case I ever had was from a guy with a break barrel rifle...he refused to hold the barrel while loading....yep the mechanism let go and the barrel snapped up and bent into a big C at almost 90 degrees!!! No hope for that barrel but he did have a nice crease in his forehead for a couple weeks, damn near knocked him out. Just to prove a point though we did shoot that rifle a number of times and velocity remained the same however accuracy was a real problem!!! Used that rifle for years as a lesson for new commers into this sport...safety first !!!!
 
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Never tried to fix a rifle by bending the barrel. I have had to set my sights so far out of line to get my POI to match where the projectile was hitting but that’s as far as I would go. Bending a barrel is not an easy decision to make unless the firearm cost less then $50.
Click to expand...

brother, you got to go ahead and give it a go. you'll be surprised how well it can turn out
 
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If I'm understanding your approach correctly, it sounds sensible. In other words, make every effort to apply forces only to the barrel itself...not to the breech block, pivot pin, stock, etc.

The way I usually do it is clamp the barrel to my bench vise near the breech block and then use both hands out near the muzzle to apply force in the direction needed, using either a jerk or shove type motion.
Click to expand...

Correct brother in your first paragraph. And in your second paragraph I think that that is the way I should do it. Meaning clamp the barrel closer to the breach block and apply forces to the muzzle tip end. The only thing I need now is a bench and vice. 



I tried the way with the eye screw where they took the barrel through with a piece of leather on it and then use a clamp meaning of c clamp and all that but I found the fastest way is to my trailer hitch but I wish I could do it your way
 
Upvote 0
I have straightened barrels with them both on and off of the gun with near perfect results results both ways. Although I prefer to chuck it up in the mini-lathe and whack it with a dead blow hammer. You need to pay attention to where the bend is and do the bending there whether it is near the breech or otherwise. Where it is bent will also dictate whether you remove the barrel or leave it on to straighten it.
Click to expand...

whats exactly a "dead blow" hammer?
 
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I have done this to a springer that I bought second hand. It was bent enough where I couldn't get the scope adjustments to where they needed to be. Just did small steps and now shoots great right where the scope is.
Click to expand...

Ok, brother, its just hard for me to picture you with anything but a springer. I also been seeing some of the FT scores and as always, congratulations are in order. hope to see you next year at DCFS & at Falls Twp
 
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